cloudancer03

My Feedback: (22)

I just finished building a 1/4scale spacewalker2 and need to put wire tail braces on the tail.theres not a lot of detail or instruction and I have never done this before.is there a tutorial on the net .I dont know what size wire to buy.I really want to stay away from using 4-40 rods as it wont look very scale.

WacoNut

For a 1/4 scale model I would go with 2-56 rods. I use a threaded end and a solder end clevis for attaching the rods. This alolows you to adjust the tension on the wires as needed and it looks pretty good as well. You can use Dubro or Sullivan straps for the anchor points. I have done this on several models and I like the results.
I am attaching a pic of the tail brace wires on my 33% Waco, these are 4-40 rods with Dubro solder on and threaded rod ends.
Later!!
Anthony

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Braided stainless steel fishing leader with plastic coating, different sizes/weights. Rigging couplers and 2/56 clevises with the top half of the clevis cut off. I get my wire at bass pro or any good sporting goods store, rigging couplers from any good hobby shop. The couplers come in 2/56 or 4/40. There are also very nice turn buckles for models too.

Charlie P.

Great Planes offers the tail wire braces and anchors from the 27% Ultimate as a seperate item. (Tower # GPMA2844 $7.49). I've also used these to brace-up a Giant Super Sportster. Very easy to install and adjust.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

I use electrical loop connectors and 2-56 wire.

Screw the connectors in place with the wires attached. Crimp to hold position, remove and solder

Zor

Hello cloudancer03,

My 2 cents worth ___

I have used some 0.030 diameter HTR (brand) stainless steel wire for tail and main wings flying wire.

I made the ferrules where the wires terminate using 0.030 inch thickness aluminum (dural alloy) .

I terminated the wires using two methods ___
1- Bend the wire back on itself forming a circle coming back to itself and bent over itself so it can never unbend.
2- use a Dubro 2-56 threaded clevis at one end and a solder type at the other end.

This provides for length adjustment.

I used some small diameter brass tubings cut in length to the thickness of the stab so that the 2-56 screws, nuts and lockwashers could be tightened witout crushing the balsa.

A couple of drops of thin CA around the bras tubing does reinforce the wood at that location.

Just the way I did it.

Zor

johncpen

I tried this on my Giant Super Sportster. The brass post that go in the horizontal stabilizer were not long enough in my case. I manage to make it work though by countersinking the top hole and gluing instead of using the retaining washer

Zor

Hello johncpen,

You are doing nice work.
Attached some pictures illustrating some recent work I did to reinforce the feathers.

First pic __the parts being prepared. The wire is stainless steel 0.030" dia.
Second pic __Right side of fin in which a brass tube allows thightening the screw without crushing the balsa.
Same for the stabilizer.
Third pic __Overall view from the front.
Fourth pic __Rear view.
Fifth pic __My new source of "turtle deck coverin" LOL

I also have a new source for the "turtle deck" Hee Hee! LOL

Zor

LesUyeda

I have drilled thru and installed tubing of the appropriate length, so I could tighten the bolt without crushing the balsa.

Les

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

I built a kit this year with foam wings and it used the tube as Les mentioned so the foam wings could use screws to tighten down the wings at the struts, works very well. Being a kit or plans built plane you can also install hardwood hard points, dowel or ply where you want to attach the wire braces. I use ply in a lot of places where I'm going to attach things like braces or control horns.

Zor

Hi Les,

FYI and for readers ___

On my Skybolt I had not originally used brass tubing so I did not really tighten the screw hard enough.
During flight due to some vibration one of the nutscame loose and fell off disconnecting that bracing wire at one end.

As the elevator moves (rotates) it reaches the stalling angle and turbulence makes the tail assembly to jitter (shake). Provision to tighten these screws is essential.

I have now remedied that on the Skybolt.

Best regards Les,

Zor

Zor

Gray Beard,

Nice to see you here on a revived old thread and add other ways of doing the job properly.

Thanks from Zor

johncpen

Thanks for the info! I decided not to use brass tubing, mostly because I did not have any on hand. I sandwiched. the cable between two washers and gently tightened with threadlocker.

Zor

Thanks for your info. I decided not to use threadlocker mostly because I did not have any on hand.
I used brass tubing, 1/8" OD and tightened like hell.

Zor

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

A lot depends on the plane itself too. On stunt planes I don't use fishing leader, I use 2-56 rod and solder a cut clevis on one end and cut the tab of a clevis then screw it onto the other end so I can adjust it as needed.

eddieC

My Feedback: (2)

<div>
</div><div>All are good tips!</div><div>
</div><div>Instead of brass tube, you could use different diameters of nyrod to prevent crushing the balsa. It's not as strong as brass tube, but is stronger than the balsa. </div>