Sig Hog Bipe Cowl
#1
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From: Sandwich,
MA
maybe some one can help me with this problem. here is what I have
I am building aSighog bipe with a Saito 100, i want to mount the Saito at 90º and build a balsa cowl over the top, I have a GF engine mount with nylon locknuts for the engine to mount, how to get to the back of the engine mount to hold the locknut? or do I have to use adifferentstyle of mount/bolts for this application if so what do I use?
I have not yet built it but from mockupit would seem be very hard to get thelock-nutsafter the balsa cowl is built<br type="_moz" />
I am building aSighog bipe with a Saito 100, i want to mount the Saito at 90º and build a balsa cowl over the top, I have a GF engine mount with nylon locknuts for the engine to mount, how to get to the back of the engine mount to hold the locknut? or do I have to use adifferentstyle of mount/bolts for this application if so what do I use?
I have not yet built it but from mockupit would seem be very hard to get thelock-nutsafter the balsa cowl is built<br type="_moz" />
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From: Lancaster,
WI
Not trying to change your mind but I just built the Hog and bought a cowl from Fiberglass Specialties-If you mount the engine inverted it works and hides everything-Food for thought
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From: Mountain Home,
AR
Is there a reason you want a fixed cowl? That is certainly complicating a situation that doesn't need to be complicated unless there is a reason not immediately apparent.
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From: Sandwich,
MA
my covering is deep red, true white, black,monokote and they do not make deep red lusterkote anymore so a fiberglass cowl will not match the covering, I am on the fence about even building a cowl but I will keep this thread open for a few days and see any one has ideas. I know that fixed cowl is a pain but I have not built one yet and the only problem that I am having is how to remove the engine after cowl is built
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From: Mountain Home,
AR
So the problem here is matching the color on the plane. That problem will remain whether the cowl is fixed or not. And if you build a fixed cowl, you are virtually eliminating the option of painting the cowl to match the plane. Since there is no break line between fuselage and cowl, you are pretty much limited to covering the cowl with the same stuff that you are using on the fuselage. If you build a cowl that is a totally separate piece, you can take a small piece of covering to your local automotive paint store and they can match the color perfectly and put it in a rattle can for you. You then fill the balsa with your favorite filler, sand it smooth, and paint it. It will match perfectly. You then have the added advantage of being able to remove the cowl if you need to do something to the engine. And getting to those screws mentioned in the first post becomes no problem at all.
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From: York,
ME
Drill the mount for blind nuts and press in. Use a small drop of light duty locktite that will allow fastener removal. When pressing in the blind nuts add a drop of CA just before seating the nut.
#9

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Wicked,
Great looking example of a Hog Bipe. I am very familar with the construction of the cowl and engine mount on this plane. Sadly that Hog Bipe is departed but still my favorite plane. I used glass filled resin type of engine mount. I use #6 socket head sheet metal screws to mount the engine. They will easily self tap into the proper sized hole.
If you insist on using a nut and bolt consider this: To acess muffler bolts through a similar built up cowl on an inverted engine, after model was covered, I drilled a small hole directly opposite of a socket head screw. Through the hole I could insert a hex key to turn the screw. You could do the same by reversing the normal orientation of the screw and nut. Put the nut on "top" of the engine where you can get a hold of it through the cowl opening. The four holes to access a socket head screw would be on the left side of the cowl.
Thanks for the implied compliment
Scott
Great looking example of a Hog Bipe. I am very familar with the construction of the cowl and engine mount on this plane. Sadly that Hog Bipe is departed but still my favorite plane. I used glass filled resin type of engine mount. I use #6 socket head sheet metal screws to mount the engine. They will easily self tap into the proper sized hole.
If you insist on using a nut and bolt consider this: To acess muffler bolts through a similar built up cowl on an inverted engine, after model was covered, I drilled a small hole directly opposite of a socket head screw. Through the hole I could insert a hex key to turn the screw. You could do the same by reversing the normal orientation of the screw and nut. Put the nut on "top" of the engine where you can get a hold of it through the cowl opening. The four holes to access a socket head screw would be on the left side of the cowl.
Thanks for the implied compliment
Scott
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From: Sandwich,
MA
<div style="margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; background-image: initial; background-attachment: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); font-family: Arial; font-size: 12px; ">badger </div><div style="margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; background-image: initial; background-attachment: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); font-family: Arial; font-size: 12px; ">
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</div><div style="margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; background-image: initial; background-attachment: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); ">PS that is (was sorry) a beautiful hog </div>



