How do I get my monokote to shrink? I haven't built a kit in a few years, but don't remember it being this hard to shrink.

It should shrink easily. I now it requires more heat than ultracote to apply and shrink.  I assume it's already on the model and sticking the frame.. just not shrinking?  Therer are a few threads where everyone is discussing it's difficulty of use as if the formula changed or something but it is thicker than ultra and not a pliable around compound curves in my opinon.

I have my heat maxed with a top flite iron. It seems to have shrunk well on my wing panels, but doesn't want to shrink over open bays on my ailerons and tail feathers.

Use a heat gun to shrink the Monokote over open areas such as these.

Ken

I just covered the other aileron and pulled it nice and tight as I ironed it down and that helps a lot.

I think I got rid of my gun. I never used to use it to cover. It seems like the monokote used to shrink better. Maybe I just built more kits before the kids

"but don't remember it being this hard to shrink. "

It didn't used to be, until they changed things. It is not the same stuff we used to use.

Les

It's also very important to provide a way for the trapped hot air to escape these areas when you apply heat. RS

You're not crazy. New Monokote doesn't really shrink very well compared to Monokote made before 2003.

I have found as long as the monokote gets attached VERY tight to start with, it will shrink well. If I allow an area to be loose, it will take to much heat to shrink it with the gun, and it will create ripples that will never pull out, and I can never get it to fully shrink. It is as if you have to overheat it to shrink it, and it will be ruined.

I still think the look is better than Ultracote in the end, but it has become hard to work with. Much harder than it used to be.

I posted an example of what happens when you have to get the monokote too hot in order to shrink it.

I decided to leave it and move forward as you can see the fuse is just about done, and my daughter is excited to see it done and fly her airplane.

Brian

Until my recent Great Planes Electric Cub build, I have not used Monokote since 1990, that was my last RC build. I used Monokote on my Electricub and I have not noticed a difference from the last time I used it. I have recently read the post re: Monokote has changed, but still I have not noticed. From what I remember I always had to put the Monokote on tight and wrinkle free before using my Heat to shrink it tight. For the last few years I have been building freeflight balsa models, trust me, Monokote is awsome when compared to using tissue.
Monokote on Electricub


Domestic Guillows Tissue

"Until my recent Great Planes Electric Cub build, I have not used Monokote since 1990, that was my last RC build. I used Monokote on my Electricub and I have not noticed a difference from the last time I used it. I have recently read the post re: Monokote has changed, but still I have not noticed. From what I remember I always had to put the Monokote on tight and wrinkle free before using my Heat to shrink it tight. For the last few years I have been building freeflight balsa models, trust me, Monokote is awsome when compared to using tissue.
Monokote on Electricub"


I've been building since the early 80s, with some hiatuses for school and work. Monokote had some problems for sure in the early 90s, yellowing white was one that happened to me. I started using Ultracote in the late 90s along with Monokote. I think Ultracote made me a little lazy in pre-stretching, then I go back to Monokote and the same techniques didn't work as well. I do remember early 80s club "how tos" emphasizing making the covering look good before you started to shrink. Maybe Monokote wasn't as good as I remember, just the best thing out at the time.

For what it's worth I still use both. I'm finishing a Seamaster now and need the edges to stay down so it's all Monokote.

Before I covered the Cub with Monokote I was sold Ultracote at the local hobby store, that was all they had. I read the instructions and gave it a shot and it did not go on like Monokote from what I remember. It was not as tight but when I started to apply heat, man I was surprised at how much it shrank. I know for a fact Monokote never shrank like that in the 80's and early 90's. Also it did not have the same high gloss that Monokote had, but that was ok. I was impressed until the seams started coming apart. Also I was amazed how many razor blades I went through. So I pulled the covering off, went back to the LHS and ordered 2 rolls of Monokote. I am sure Ultracote is great stuff, but for me Monokote is what I am used to. There used to be a good Monokote VHS tape out in the late 80s and it did a real good job of explaining how to use Monokote. I agree with you......I don't know if Monokote was the best thing or not, but that is all we knew.

I'm just about covered. I have two colors coming together over an open area. Is there a good way to seam the two together before I apply the monokote to the model?

Brian,

You can use Monkote Trim Solvent or Xylene to glue the seam together before you put it on the plane. Use a good surface to work on (glass works best) and let it dry over night.

Don't apply too much heat to the seam when you are covering. Try to heat around the seam, not directly on it. Good luck.

Paul

I have found that treating the airframe with hair spray makes the covering stick better and in Monokote's case shrink better. I can re-heat wrinkes at 350F and it will stick back down. I read about this tip at another site and decided to try it, it works. Spray the airframe with hair spray between the 220 grit and 320 grit sanding, clean and cover. Don't knock it until you try it.