DUCO

Hogrider, hay ya buddy, thanks for the advice, as always sound and I will as you pointed out, use the landing gear and laser rods. Thanks for the kind words about my sloooow build.
Keep u'r top knot, pard.

dredhea

My Feedback: (13)

Duco,
If you have a second kit coming, might I recommend the following: build the first one as per the plans. Then, after you've flown for awhile, determine what you like or dislike about it and build the second one to your preferences.

Hogrider

My Feedback: (392)

I have built two Eagle 2's and assembled one Eagle 2 ARF and have not encountered any problems with Stab alignment (unless I caused it myself). If the instructions and plans are followed and average building stills are used, there will no problems.
My first Eagle 2, I used Futaba S148 (33oz's @ 4.8v) all around. My second Eagle 2, I used Futaba S148 ) on the throttle and Futaba S9202 (56oz's @ 4.8v) on the control surfaces (slight over-kill). I think we might keep in mind, this is a Trainer and not a Pylon Racer.
Using two sevos for the ailerons is too much and not needed and it just adds weight.
Question: Is DUCO adhesive a CA or general adhesive? And where all do you use it in your building program? Where do you not use it? Does it cure quickly?
I am considering using it in the near future.

DUCO

Again you have helped to decide what path to take, the servos as used are Futaba S3004 for all movements. I will follow the instructions and use the one for the ailerons.
Per your question, Duco cement is a acetone & isopropanol base general purpose adhesive. The glue sets strong, clear and grabs when part is placed into position. I use it for most balsa to balsa, balsa to spruce and balsa to plastic. I like to use epoxy for all plywood's and or ply to hardwood. I have used Duco for years and am sold on the stuff, very much like the old glue we all started with years ago. It does have some things to keep in mind, first, use in well ventilated areas, the stuff is not good for ya to huff. Also, be careful of where you use that there is no open flames, the stuff is highly flammable. But with the proper care, you get a water/fuel proof, sands well, paintable, strong grab/set general purpose glue. It is getting hard to find, my LHS carries the stuff for me, orders a 12 count ctn for me when ordering. I do use CA, but very little. I learned it's bad traits during my RC boat racing days! The stuff will bond, card, paper, balsa, light wood, china, glass plastic and some metals!~ Pretty good glue there if ya ask me. Hope this has been of some help. I have used Duco in the complete construction of the wing so far.
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crossman

I am sure that the misalignment that I had was something that I caused. It surely could have been avoid with a little more care.

Any mods that I did on my Eagle came after flying for a couple of seasons, and finding things that I wanted to do differently or was having problems with. The main changes that I made were bolt on wings and built-up wingtips to replace the plastic ones.

DUCO

As stated @ the start of the thread, this is the 1st fully RC airplane I have built, but by no means is it the 1st RC model I have built, nor Control Line (many of them), powered free flight and or rubber. I admit I am a beginner in this area, but as for being a beginner modeler, not! If there was anything I learned about RC Modeling during my boat and car days was this, no 2 kits build the same. And no 2 kits operate the same, what worked for one does not mean automatically, you will get the same results again. Mods short f/modification: to move away from the original as designed, to improve and or make more user friendly. I agree, any beginner/trainer model was designed with that idea/purpose in mind= basic build/function.
I have no problem building as it comes out of the box, thats how I began many moons ago, but I also have no problem improving and learning from my peers. Why repeat the same frustrations they did, learn from others experiences.
I have study and read every thread related to this bird I could find, yes to me there is room for improvement in several areas, but @ the same time, the design is good enough to learn the flying curve from.
So, per the advice I have received, here is what I intend to do, build as it comes out of the box, I will however replace the balsa push rods, the reason being I have used in boat racing and @ times have had catastrophic results from using balsa as a push rod.
I now have 2 sets of the CG Nylon landing gear sets and will replace the wire ones, but will use the spring wire as comes out of the kit on the front of the bird.
I will install the servos just as recommended and only use one for the ailerons.
I did this week receive a 2.4 GHz 6EX radio, and had thought about installing it, but will go w/the the FM as bought to learn to fly with.
I did receive the 2nd Eagle kit today from a eBay purchase, so I will learn w/the one I am building and when the notion strikes to build another Eagle II, then I will incorporate all the mods that I feel are needed. Oh yea, hoping to add another kit to the stash, a Telemaster 40. Notice every time one of these come up for auction, people go nuts bidding for, saw one go this for well over $260.00, German version!
I know, I have a thing for High Wing AC.
I am also into cameras, would like to mount on in a Telemaster @ some later date. Sounds like my cup of tea!

JNorton

My Feedback: (2)

One of the best flying - candy drop, camera carrying planes there is. Bruce's Flying King. http://www.btemodels.com/flyin_king.html
John

DUCO

Thanks JNorton, and yes, I do like this one too. Now I have to decide which one to order, hey I got it, all of'em!!!!!

ARUP

I like your gaurd's 'under the radar' pose. No bad guy would expect the pain that is to come.... lol

DUCO

Yea, the painful, licked to death. Give her a treat and she will show you where all the goods are @. lol

DUCO

Care package arrived from home base (Tower Hobbies).......lol
Ordered a few goodies and decided to go w/ Dave Brown fiberglass pushrods and sprung f/the extra ends as well. I have also got the Sullivan flex for the throttle. I am not a fan of balsa rods and in keeping albeit w/the design of a stiff type pushrod, I opted to give this a try. I have never used their rods, but I sure have used many of their other products and have never had a problem with any of them. I admit, was a bit pricey, but hey, what's not w/gas almost @ $4.00 a gal?
That eats into my Living Expenses, RC!
Almost completed the wing, I know, slooooow builder, but hope to have photos soon of the finished wing,
Gathering materials to build me a fuselage jig now.
Cheers, the Glue Man.

DUCO

Well finally got the wing halves joined. Worked on till the sun and heat ran me back into the house.

huck1199

Looks like a very neat build; nice and true.  Keep up the good work.

Tarasdad

Looking good! Taking your time is the best way to build. As the old saying goes, "slow and steady wins the day."

DUCO

Thanks guys for the kind words. I am a slow builder compared too many here. I just have always took plenty of time for any construction I am doing, and usually have more than one project going @ one time. I also am working on a 1/2A RC when I can not work in the garage.
I am @ a in-pass right right now trying to figure out if I want to go w/bolt on wings which are much clear looking or go w/the rubber band type. Any thoughts on this fellas.
I need to decide since I am @ the point of sheeting the top saddle of the wing. What size screw holes for the blocks should I consider. I know Sig makes sets alreadt drilled for this and there is two sizes available on eBay. Hope everyone has a Happy Easter.

DUCO

Well, I thought about it and decided I will just go ahead w/the wing held on w/rubber-bands as shown in the instructions for the sake of keeping the build moving forward. I am ready to finish the wing and as posted on another thread, glass the wing joint. I did deviate a bit from the instructions and went ahead and used all three center ribs glued together and not just 2. This was then solidly glued to the wings joining center. Very strong, and I have no fear about this area failing. I am sanding and ready to install the ailerons, received a handy tool for this step, a Great Planes Groove Tube, never did like doing this w/a rat file/knife. Also sprung for the Dead Center as well, both tools appear to be well made and very useful for what they were designed to do. Besides being a kit fanatic, I also am a sucker for any tool that will make the job easier and more professional. Micro Mark smiles every-time they see my name.

Another question? Saw small aluminum strips added to locations where the rubber band draped over the wing. I get the idea why, but is this a good mod to keep the wing edges from being crushed by the rubber bands. I believe I read it takes 14-16 rubber bands to hold the wing securely.<br type="_moz" />

Hogrider

My Feedback: (392)

Hi DUCO,
The aluminum metal strips is to protect the Trailing edge of the wing from being crushed and messing up your covering film by installing and removing the rubber bands.
If I build another Eagle 2, it will be a bolt on wing.
For the bolt-on wing, you modify the #1 Ribs (2) by cutting a piece of the rear Ribs to accept the 1/4" Dowel. At the front of the #1 Ribs, you cut a Wedge shape piece from left over #1 Ribs drop-offs. Then you make two additional Ribs to guide and capture the 1/4" Dowel along with epoxy and glass cloth. These extra Ribs will be on the outside of the #1 Ribs.
If you decide to use the rubber bands, be sure to notch the rear Dowel so the Aileron Control Horns do not stall-out on the rear Dowel.
The Great Planes Groove Tube sounds like a good idea.

KitBuilder

If you go the bolt on wing route you also need to add a doubler to the front cabin bulkhead as well I added one on both sides that wen down into the fuser area. I overbuilt my dowel as described above and also tying to the front LE and main spar with carbon tow and it works great

DUCO

Hogrider
Kitbuilder
Thanks guys for your insight and I will do as advised. I guess @ this point and for time sake, I will go w/rubber-banding for wing attachment w/alum tabs to protect the LE/TE. I also wondered about the dowel interfering w/the alerion servo, you answered that and do just as you instructed.
My next project will have a bolt on wing. Hope to have photos up soon of fuselage contruction.

Future Project: Senior Telemaster

Hogrider

My Feedback: (392)

Something you might want to consider, on one of my Eagle 2's, on the rear holddown dowel, I epoxied 3/4" square of 1/4" of AC ply
over the 1/4" dowel hole on inside of each side. Then drilled a 1/4" hole through both AC ply for a pair of 1" long dowels. That way the dowel will not interfer with the throw of the Aileron control horns.
A word of caution about the rubber bands. When they get glow fuel on them, they become very soft and lose their strength over a short time.

DUCO

OK, so let me repeat this, you use ply @ dowel hole locations, then you use 2 shorter dowel rods @ ea, hole. Thanks for the tip about the rubber bands, had been told to remove and dis-card after a flying day for the same thing you have pointed out. As always, I value your info and advice on these little tid-bits you have learned.

Hogrider

My Feedback: (392)

There is no need to discard the rubber bands after each use. Just keep an eye on them and replace if they show that they are not doing their job.
They will not break, just lose their strength by not keeping the wing in its saddle.

TomCrump

i used to keep my rubber bands in a baggy that contained a little kitty litter. The kitty litter absorbed the oil. Before I each use of the rubber bands, I would wipe them off.

By using this procedure, the life of the rubber bands was greatly extended.

tryingagain

I echo the baggy or plastic bottle to keep your used elastics. Any absorbent material will do I use a little corn starch in an old container that a bottle of CA came in. Put the elastics back in the bottle after flying, shake well and when you want to reuse them give them a good snap and the loose starch flies off.
You will be able to tell when they start to lose there oomph and you can change them then.

On the other side of the argument, a bag of elastics from your local office supply store is down right cheap. So it literally costs pennies a flight if you do decide to dispose of them after each flight.

My Scottish blood just won't let me do that!

Cheers

Gord

P.S. My son is currently building an EagleII. He opted for the wing bolts.

DUCO

I am sad to report today a mis-hap w/wing resulted in sever damage. I just sat there and looked @ the mess that resulted from a sudden impact from above on top of the wing. So as bad as I hate it, I am retiring this build for now. I do have the material to rebuild and I do have a second kit as well, I just do not feel like repeating this process again right now.

So not all is lost, I will re-build and or start over again. Right now I am insuring no other shelf can drop w/it's load from the hangers again.

Keep watching, I am going to keep building, but right now I have set my sighs on sum thing else.

What I feel the most bad about is everyone who has helped to build this bird. But I have learned a great deal from what I have done and will apply to next project.

Hint: TM 40