Pa-18cub150

Is any one using weldbond glue?
http://www.weldbond.com/industrial_g...ersal_adhesive


What are your experiences ?

Balsa USA is selling weldbond as canopy glue.
https://www.balsausa.com/store/produ...id_product=728

How strong is this stuff?

Pylonracr

Why???
Use CA for balsa, and epoxy for hard wood. 6min epoxy is good for gluing on tails and stuff where you need a little time to align. 45 Minute epoxy for any structural hardwood or aircraft plywood.

It has always worked in the past, so if it ain't broke dont fix it.

aussiesteve

Darn straight - if it ain't broke don't fix it.
We have been using PVA styles glues for longer than CAhas been getting used on planes. Weldbond fits into the "PVAstyle" category.

Weldbond is a Great product without the fumes and toxicity probelms from CA. It does take longer to set up than CA though.
I would still use Epoxy in the areas where Pylonracr has suggested though.

Pa-18cub150

I have used Formula 560 canopy glue. Not impressed[:@] !!

There has to be something better . Just wondering if the weldbond is all its cracked up to be. If it is, I can get rid of my Elmer’s wood glue and the 560 .

I use CA for CA hinges and repairs, Elmer’s and 30 min epoxy for kit building .

I have had mixed results with thick CA on canopy’s.

Nothing personalizes a model like a CA finger print in the middle of a wind screen.[]

SunDevilPilot

For my latest build, a Sig J3 1/4 Cub converted to a PA-18, I have been using the Gorilla brand Wood Glue (PVA glue not the poly stuff) and have been really happy. It dries to a clear brown color and sets in a few minutes. It also sands great.

CA glue does have its place but I really like good old wood glue.

Most big box stores sell it.

SunDevilPilot

LesUyeda

Pa-18cub150

What has been your problem with 560? I have never used any thing other. I was happier with their 56 (before improvements), but 560 still dries clear and does the job for me.

Les

Top_Gunn

My Feedback: (6)

I've used Weldbond a few times for canopies. My impression is that it's a lot like Formula 560 (which is a lot like Elmer's, maybe identical) except that Weldbond seems to be a little thicker, and so less runny, which is good.

The first time I used Weldbond it happened because I picked it up by mistake: Same colors as Formula 560.

Zor

Hello Pa-18cub150,

I use Welbond to repair foam models.

I only use CA (fast and slow CA) for tacking only.

I use 5 or 12 minutes epoxy also for tacking and often for non-balsa wood

I use 30 minutes epoxy for locations where added strength is needed.

All the rest of my balsa construction use Sig-Ment or Titebond.

The RC56 formulas dry clear and remain elastic. I use it for canopies.

I also fillet all my gluing for added grab areas.

Zor

wcmorrison

My Feedback: (2)

I have used Wellbond, Elmers and Titebond II with equal success on all of the woods.  In cases where extra strength is necessary like firewalls, I use epoxy.  I use epoxy on wing halves, tail feathers and some structual repairs like doublers.

Right now one can get 4 fluid ounces of Elmers at Walmart for $0.40 in the school supplies section.  Works well on wood especially balsa.

I only use CA in non stress locations, fine cracks and the like when repair wing surfaces.  It is okay but just not as shock resistant as Aliphalatic glues like Elmers or Titebonds.  Wellbond fits in that category.

Chip

Pa-18cub150

My complaints with the formula 560.

..Runny

..Yellows in sun light

..Two slow to tack up and cure

..Week

..Doesn’t adhere well to monokote

..Still creamy looking when dry



I have been thinking of using clear silicone.

tschuy

My Feedback: (1)

I've used Weldbond a couple of times and can't say anything bad. But my long time association with Titebond has kept me planted with it. Okay I'm old school when it comes to building models. CA is great and it has its place. But when build certain structures of a kit. I've been very satisfied with Titebond and its strength. Sheeting the leading and trailing edges of my wings is one of them. Sheer webs is another. CA would probably do fine. But the drying time and cure strength has me smiling with my kit assemblies.

Just my two cents, with about 30 years of experience to back it up....

LesUyeda

Your experiences are not what I have seen, but it has been a long time.

"..Doesn’t adhere well to monokote "

I don't know of anything that does. I have used monokote for "masking" where I didn't want anything to stick.

Les

tschuy

My Feedback: (1)

I would have to agree... In my case Welbond and Titebond were not used for holding canopies. I've used Shoe-Goo with good success as well as Epoxy.

buzzard bait

I like Weldbond. I have built whole airplanes with it using little or even no epoxy. It won't fill gaps, so you need good joints.

The hardware store where I bought it closed and now I use Titebond.

Jim

Zor

Hello all readers,

I find this post by LestUyeda very interesting.
I endorse fully his comments.

Monokote and similar products are made of some transparent plastic. The color is in the glue or between the plastic and the glue.

Gluesdo not adhere well to plastic. As a result the heat shrinking plastic covering is not the best for adding strength to a model structure.

We often see someone removing the covering and a lot of the glue and color remains on the wood structure. Materials separate at the weakest layer or joint.

It is a matter of choice highly inluenced by the industry and their advertising.

Nothing beats fabric and real aircraft dope properly applied.

Zor

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Pretty silly statement, CA is the new kid on the block. I'm a CA user but I am on the last stage of sanding on a fully sheeted plane at the moment and have been reminded why I often sheet with wood glue. Any CA on the outside of a seam is like sanding steel. Next time I will sheet or at least glue my sheeting with wood glue. All glues have a place in model building, any builder that has been doing it for a while will have several types of glues on there bench and not limit themselves. I also don't just listen to one type of music, that would be limiting myself and just a very stupid thing to do.

Pa-18cub150

Ok I have a small bottle on its way to experiment with. Should be hear by the weekend.

I agree with Zor Nothing beats a properly applied Dope and Fabric job, but you can do some cool things with transparent monokote.

Gray Beard
You are so right, every adhesive has a proper place.

In my way of thinking, if a glue can adhere a plastic canopy to wood. It should be capable of joining a plastic canopy to a plastic covering .

I know this may be a little simplistic with all of the different types of plastics. So don’t beat me up to bad with all the technical stuff .

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Knowing CA on a canopy will fog the plastic I will say how I have done it and gotten away with it. Stuck so well when the plane hit the ground I had to sand the covering off the plastic. I drew an outline of the canopy onto the plane, used a pin and poked little holes on the inside of the line, put a bead of thick CA on the inside of the line and just set the canopy on top of the glue bead. I didn't get the fog.
Why I would mention that I have no idea except I saw it mentioned. I only did it this way twice on a couple of Up-Roars. Maybe I just got lucky?? If you rough up the covering in the gluing area a little with some sand paper pretty much any glue will stick to the plastic covering. That's how you can get paint to stick to it too.

vasek

My Feedback: (4)

whatch ya talking about willis!

Zor

Sorry I do not understand this posting by "vasek"
Orthography as in original (in case it is changed).

Zor

LesUyeda

"Pretty silly statement, CA is the new kid on the block. "

Maybe back in the late '50's when it came out as Eastman 910:-)))))))))))))))))))

Les

SkidMan

My Feedback: (17)

From Straight Dope: http://www.straightdope.com/columns/...nds-in-vietnam

Super glue, Krazy glue, Eastman 910 and similar glues are all a special type of glue called cyanoacrylates. Cyanoacrylates were invented in 1942 by Dr. Harry Coover of Kodak Laboratories during experiments to make a special extra-clear plastic suitable for gun sights. He found they weren't suitable for that purpose, so he set the formula aside. Six years later he pulled it out of the drawer thinking it might be useful as a new plastic for airplane canopies. Wrong againbut he did find that cyanoacrylates would glue together many materials with incredible strength and quick action, including two very expensive prisms when he tried to test the ocular qualities of the substance. Seeing possibilities for a new adhesive, Kodak developed "Eastman #910" (later "Eastman 910") a few years later as the first true "super glue." In a now-famous demonstration conducted in 1959, Dr. Coover displayed the strength of this new product on the early television show "I've Got a Secret," where he used a single drop placed between two steel cylinders to lift the host of the show, Garry Moore, completely off of the ground.

Zor

When I run out of Lepage "mucilage" glue I use Weldbond to glue paper and cardboard.

I spred it thinly with my finger and let it get sticky (a few minutes) and press the pieces together with another finger.

I then pass my sticky finger under the faucet.

Oh ___it is good for foam. I repaired a foam wing with Weldbond.

_ _

Zor

buzzard bait

Yes, it is good on foam. I once spread some on a foam wing, let it dry, and then ironed tissue paper on to the surface. I was amazed at how smooth and nice the covering job was, and quite light.

Jim

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

And until it came out to the general public as Super glue very few people knew a thing about it. That was in the 60s. Before that we used Testors and Ambroids or just Elmers wood glue. Super glue was in very small containers and cost so much it wasn't used for building very much at all. First time I saw the 910 was in 1963 when my father brought home a two ounce bottle, he was in Aerospace and they were using it for different applacations. It took a lot more years for CA to hit the modeling world or the open market as it is today. I buy it in 8 ounce bottles these days, $20.00 a pop. In the 80s when CA was catching on it was usually only found in one ounce bottles and just showing up in hobby shops. Compared to any of the wood glues CA is just a baby. Now we have Gorilla glue and it's getting better and better with more uses for modeling.