FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Artistic license?

acdii

You would think since it is modeled after the Clipped wing that the cowl would also be scale. Its too wide at the bottom. Maybe they did it that way to accommodate more engine choices.

John_M_

I believe Sig's 1/5 - 1/4 cub kits are "stand off scale" which is mostly physical dimensions represent the full size; the proportions are not exact... then there's some fudge factor involved due to design elements, building / assembly methods, and construction materials used... on the 1/4 cub, all the placements like the landing gear, wing strut mounts, are close to the full size but not exact... the fuselage width probably has an affect on how the cowl take its form... in order for the cowl to be scale, the rest of the aircraft would have to follow, or somethings not going to look right; the proportions would be way off.

John M,

spaceworm

Here is a source of clipped wing full size Cubs: ClippedCub.com

acdii

The GP Arf of the same "scale" that my friend has is pretty close as far as dimensions. The fuse is the same width and height as the SIG, and the cowl will fit the SIG, it looks more like the real Cub cowl than the Sig one does, that is the only piece out of place on the SIG. The SIG cowl is wider at the nose, looks more like the Super Cub cowl. The GP cowl has the chin that is quite apparent on the real Cub. Here are the two planes, you can see the differences, the GP looks a lot closer to the real one.

http://www.sigplanes.com/SIG-Anniver...-Kit_p_71.html
http://www.greatplanes.com/airplanes/gpma1311b-lg.jpg

ARUP

You can get a set of Paul Matt drawings (in one of his two albums (books), too. That's what I did when I built my PA-12 Super Cruiser as modified from SIG 1/6 Cub kit. I have the capabilities to make more glass cowls for it if anyone is interested in the purchase.

John_M_

When you say "chin", are you referring to where the cowl hangs down below the bottom line of the fuselage... I always thought that was due to engine placement... I've seen some full sized cubs where the cowl blends into the fuse without the over hang at the bottom (or very little hanging down)... I made mine so it blends in... on the model it didn't look right to me with the cowl hanging down, but everyone sees things differently... I'll steal a quote form pink-its site; from Dave Patt "sometimes you have to make it a little wrong, in order to look right", but who's perception of right / wrong?... what I think looks out of place, or incorrect to me, maybe to someone else who sees it just the opposite... goes back to things being in proportion with one another... I've always seen things in symmetry... when I build, I can see if one side of things doesn't match, or have the same shape as the other; I tend to build one half and use it to mirror the other.

John M,

acdii

I'll try to remember to get a pic of them side by side. The difference is apparent when they are together.

John_M_

Ok, maybe its the air cleaner you're referring too... but I do see the differences in the nose shape... the Sig 1/6 cub has a nice scale look to the cowl as well; to me anyways, lol.

John M,

stevegauth30

Does anyone happen to know the rough dimensions of a 1/6 scale dummy engine? I know it's only the lil one, but it just doesn't look like a cub without the cylinder heads and eyebrows on the side of the cowl. I'm basically at least looking for the dimensions across the cylinder heads. Full scale dimensions will work. Also, the diameter of exhaust tubes. Thanks, Steve.

acerc

I don't know the sizes but you can't beat one of these. http://www.topnotchkits.com/index_files/TN_Kit11.htm

stevegauth30

I absolutely agree Robert, but I'm a modeler on a very tight budget, and any spendable money I acquire goes toward the many other on going projects. I just want to build my own out of materials I already have. It's just a little plane with many many miles on it, and I just want to make it look a little more realistic. A cub cowl with no cylinder heads and eyebrows , in my opinion, doesn't look at all like a cub cowl. If I was only building this lil cub, and was trying to make it super scale, you bet your you know what I would use the top notch kit.

acerc

In that case Steve the Cubman offers up the drawings,http://thecubden.org/thecubden/wp-co...ontinental.pdf, just resize for your scale.
My 1/4 scale measures 42mm center of the heads, 1/5 scale should be 33.5mm

stevegauth30

Oh, perfect. Thank you ace.

acerc

Steve I also edited that post to include the head measurements span wise.

spaceworm

Anyone out there have a 3D printer?

stevegauth30

Your the best brother.

acerc

Lots of 3D printers but no one willing to do the graphics (time consuming) required to make individual items.

spaceworm

I have the time; maybe not the skill set. What does it take? I do AutoCAD.

Sincerely, Richard

acerc

Drawing the item up in a 3D image, in the format required by the given printer.

ThunderBoat42

My Feedback: (1)

Anyone know where I can get a glass cowl for the Goldberg in J3 and super cub?

ThunderBoat42

My Feedback: (1)

My bro in law has one and my son has on at his school. He also has the Revit design program to design/run it.

spaceworm

Tag, you're it.

acerc

http://www.fiberglassspecialtiesinc.com/, has one for the CG Cub.

John_M_

Making some progress with the door / window re-enforcement... no pics yet, as I'm still digging out all the soft balsa doubles across the top of the cabane's... I have the forward window stays removed, as well as the window rear pillars at F-6... I forgot that the two wing locating dowels penetrated into the cabin blocks, so I've updated my drawing I did earlier to better reflect my intentions... so far it looks like its going to work out just as I intended... with the forward window pillars removed, its not too difficult to run a 1/16 drill bit up into the soft cabin blocks along the face of F-5 to create a slot for the brass tabs to slide in place... I also lengthen the brass tabs 1/4 of and inch, so they are now 3/8" x 1 3/4" x .067 ; 3/16 music wire bent to re-enforce the upper window frames ... I also soldered 2, 4-40 nuts to the brass tabs... then slid the tabs in place and ran the screws in from the wing side; screws are counter sunk flush to F-5 (wing side)... this will be much easier to do as you are building the fuselage, rather than after its completed, but not impossible, just takes some fiddling... once I have it completed, and before I glue everything in place... I'll take it apart and takes some pic's of each step of the final assemble.

John M,