SeamusG

Then the wing tips ...

Ultracote shrinks-n-stretches very nicely. Easy to create a tip cover with no cutting and leaving at least 1/4" all the way around.

SeamusG

The two aileron servo mounts were "cut in".

Then it was 4 pieces for rest of the wing.

When Iuse tape ITRYto remember to overlap the tap on itself so that it's easy to get a hold of for removal.

pic 7 - the four markers on the wing show the initial sealing area - main spar to TE - then pull the LE taut.

SeamusG

The wing has been covered.

I was messing around with using some chrome for the windshield. The piece was taped with a couple of tape loops on the back.

pic 3 - the frame work created while "cutting in"the wing provides an excellent anchor for the base film - a sharp X-acto cuts out the hole nicely leaving a very finished servo mount hole.

SeamusG

The control surfaces were hinged using CA hinges. After that all hinge gaps were sealed both top and bottom.

Tape was used to hold the control surfaces fully "open". Apiece of 1/2"tri-stock makes a great shuttle that you can run down the hinge gap to add tension to the seal material - just follow it up with a trim iron - nice 'n neat.

SeamusG

Time to trim the tree!

I made a full scale layout of the LTin my 2Dtool accurate to maybe 1/16". I can easily measure where the starburst trim crossed the edges of the control surfaces. Iused a thin point Sharpie to transfer the measurements to the model.

Remember when you covered the wings with 4 big pieces? Don't throw the Ultracote backing pieces away. They are translucent and on side is easily marked. I laid a piece of backing over the "marked up"surfaces and transferred the marks to the backing material. I then took the template over to the film cutting table and marked the backing of black stock for each of the starbursts - 2 for the fuse sides, 3 for the fin/rudder and 2 for the stab/elevator. Icut 4 fuse pieces, 6 fin/rudder pieces and 4 stab/elevator pieces.

Note in the 2nd picture there is a circle at the bottom LEof the fin. That's where I want the convergence point to be.

The sides got trimmed, then the fin/rudder and finally the stab/elevator. That's a couple of days work. Not full time of course but the pictures don't do justice for the time spent.

When Icovered over the hinge lines Ibent the control surfaces away from the side being trimmed. A slit was made down the center of the hinge line. The film was sealed to the moving control surface and flush cut at the edge - it was NOTwrapped around the back of the surface - didn't want to try to match the two sides.

After the trim was applied the hinge gap was re-sealed with a narrow black strip so that no yellow shows thru the starbursts along the hinge line.

SeamusG

The wing trim is last. All the steps are identical to the fin/rudder &stab/elevator - just bigger pieces.

No, this covering job is not a show stopper. The trim is very easy to cut out as it is all straight lines and angles. Biggest issue is sealing the trim over different "densities" of material. Huh? Part of the wing is sheeted. Then it's diagonally over spars, ribs (no cap strips), and more TEsheeting - it's up and down the little slopes with the iron softening the base covering as you push the trim "into"the base while trying to avoid the inevitable bubbles.

Bubbles? If you are on fairly low heat it's easy to slide the tip of a X-acto #11 blade into the side of a bubble away from the iron - then push the iron toward the just made vent hole. If the iron is too hot then the bubble look more like "blisters"than "pillows". Pillows are easy to pop with absolutely NOremnant. Blisters leave scars.

HTH

PS- can't wait to see how this scheme "pops" in our cloudless blue skies of Colorado!

mrbigg

My Feedback: (21)

Looks good. Thanks for the Utracote tip.

SeamusG

LMAO - thought Imight get a maiden in today. Oops - club's weather station - wind gust 75-80 out of the west. Take off would be easy - just hold it still into the wind and let go. Final leg would be a bit tough - probably find the plane somewhere in Kansas ...

fledermaus

Not quite correct (me being the pedantic Chemistry Professor ) - Xylene is the common or trivial name for the three isomeric dimethyl benzenes. Xylol is a european synonym for xylene, just as benzol is a synonym for benzene in europe.

[link=http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xylene]Wikipedia article on Xylene[/link]

Basically though xylene is a hydrocarbon solvent.

HighPlains

My Feedback: (1)

Let me know when to start looking for it. Landing will be easy, it's only gusting to 60.

SeamusG

I can go to bed a happy person tonight 'cause Ilearned something new. Thanks. Yea - Ido have a link to Wikipedia right next to RCU- Ishould know better

Pedantic?Idon't believe you - self depricating maybe ...

SeamusG

Finally (re)maidened the LT today.

I love the affect of having clipped the wings. Roll rate is soooo much improved and the roll is much more axial than before (if that is possible with all of the LT's original specified dihedral). Of course, needs 15 degrees up & the roll finishing with about same angle down - coming back to the original line of flight. With an OS 46 FX and 10x6 APC it makes for a great trainer that is capable of performing plenty of aerobatic maneuvers.

Still fighting (Ok, putting up with) significant throttle induced climb rate.

Any help? Or should I open up a new "duh" thread?

rafeeki

My Feedback: (11)

I have a 1/4 scale and a 1/5 scale both climb when throteling up. Find a speed that u like and trim it to that altitude so it will fly reasonably level and straight without having to fight the sticks.
I also have a Nexstar trainer that does the sam. The similarity is due to the flat bottom airfoil. Just bot a Ultra Stick 40 with a symetrical airfoil so I could learn todo some aerobatics.

SeamusG

Well I have other stuff for non-training type flights. Guess I should, uh, just "quit whinin'", trim for straight-n-level at 1/2 throttle (or whatever) and fly the trainer like a trainer!

Where did I put my SIG Somethin' Extra ....

Thx for your thoughts!

acdii

Thats pretty much what I do. Just over half throttle for level trim. Really great for touch and goes, Hit full throttle and climb out without touching the stick. Mine is a blast to fly with that nearly flat wing and tail dragger.

I let my friend fly it for a while, his planes are a little on the needy side, sat too long and need work to be flying again. He flew it for a good 10 minutes, then came in to land, but landed long. Said throttle up! He didnt and scooted into the corn.  No harm though, it hit square to the corn so no damage was done. He was afraid it would cart wheel, and I said, do you remember the vertical takeoff when I nearly smacked the pole? He said, oh right, I did. 

great flying plane.

GaryHarris

Sweet job bro!

SeamusG

Why not practice throttle control on your touch-n-go's as well? Use the throttle to perfect the approach angle and then the elevator to flare - grease a beautiful landing - then continue a roll on and apply throttle to take off.

Time for the SSE or Hog Bipe ...

SeamusG

Thx GH.

ray foley

hi there from Toledo

I also clipped the wing on my LT40 but I reinstalled the bevel tips. Then since the covering was off anyway I modified the airfoil, making it semisymmetrical for more inverted flight fun.

Wings and Things:

I glued pieces of 1/4 stick balsa to the bottom of the main spars tapered to a point at the tip and root sheeting and pieces of 1/4 by 1/8 to the rear spars, tapered similarly.

Then I glued strips of 1/4 by 1/8 balsa at each rib location from the LE to the TE and gluing to each spar too.

Wetting each strip before bending made things easier with no breakage of the strips.

Some sanding at the LE and TE smoothed the transitions.

I also filled in between the strips along the spar additions with more 1/4 by 1/8 balsa.

Then I recovered the wing with UC.

I also added 2 wing servos on separate channels for flaperon mix operation.

Pretty easy actually and worth it.

Come fly with me:

The semisymmetrical modification makes inverted flight and outside loops easy and fun as opposed to tenuous and scary.

About 10 degrees of down flaps lets the LT40 takes off with authority.

About 2 or 3 degrees of up flaps (reflex) pretty much eliminates the strong climb with power.

Flaps at 0 degrees makes for easy flying and smooth landings.

I like to slow fly with 5 degrees of down flap at 3 feet off the deck and 1/3 throttle doing huge low indy laps of the field, priceless!

ciao -rjf

SeamusG

Holy Toledo!

Guess it isn't an LT-40 anymore.

How do the flaperons behave? All of my planes split the two aileron servos across separate channels. Maybe ....

ray foley

hi there from Toledo

Hey Seamus

Sure it is still an LT40 ... just better, upgraded, improved, refined, whatever. The fuselage and tail feathers are still original. The wing structure except for the mods is still the same and so forth.

ciao -rjf

acdii

PICS or it didn't happen! Maybe this winter I will build a sport wing for my LT. Full symetrical wing based off the original rib patterns, with larger ailerons and do what you did making flaperons. Since I already have the wing set to only 1 inch Dihedral, I would probably maintain that angle instead of just flat. I love how mine flies, and being able to flip it over and stay would be great. It tends to need a lot of down to keep it level so hoping a different wing would work better. Going flying after work, have 4 planes to fly now, a remaiden of the Dewey with a new engine on it, and my Kadet, 4*120 and T-34 all ready to go. Never enough time to fly though