I want to use magnets to hold my canopy on. What type of glue will hold the magnets in place and not come loss when I remove to canopy. I have a would fuselage and canopy. The Magnets are 1/2" in diameter and 1/4" thick. I will use 2 dowels on the front of the canopy and 4 magents on the rear. 2 in the fuselage and 2 in the canopy itself

i use rc 56

I sand the backs to rough them up and use epoxy.   Rubber types of adhesive have failed me.

Is that the white Canopy glue for attching clear canopys to the fuselage?

Thanks I was wondering if epoxy would grab the metal magnet and hold onto them. That is what I wll try.

lve used rc56 on the small one don't. Know about 1/2 inch epoxy. Would probably be better

Sound like some big magnets!  [X(]<div>
</div><div>I've used epoxy, CA, and canopy glue. Biggest thing is roughing up the surface as pointed out. </div><div>
</div><div>I've found a metal plate or screw is as effective as the double magnet you propose. </div>

The metal plate sounds like a good option. I'll try that first and see how well it holds

Hi Jim;the metal plate is a good idea,the thicker the plate the better it holds,3/32 or 1/8th will work just find.George.

I once made the mistake of using small rare earth magnets, magnet to magnet on a hatch, Don't do that!!! I had to rip the hatch opened to remove it. Them little suckers really stick well to themselves!!!![>:]

I've used epoxy with good success. As many have stated rough up the surface to be glued so that the epoxy has some bite into the magnet...Cheers,

I went ahead and drilled two 1/2" holes into the canopy and used some 1/2" flat washers on the fuselage. I epoxied both the batteries and washers in place. This has made for a very tight fit and looks like it is going to work just fine. O by the way the plane is a 1/5 scale Fokker D-VII with a DEL-30 gas engine. That is why I choose to use 1/2" flat magnets. Here are a few pic's The canopy has the pilot in it.

Gorgeous plane!

Not only a nice plane but also my all time favorite WWI plane. I have built and flown a lot of D-VIIs over the years of different sizes and love them. If I ever built another I would like to build the giant scale from BUSA. I have flown the plane but never had one of my own. Nice, very nice!!!

Thanks for the nice comments. This plane is a 1/5 scale Fokker D-VII 71" Wing Span with a DLE-30 for power spinning a Xoar 19x8 Simitar prop at close to 7800RPM. I hope to do the maiden flight this weekend if weather holds. Weather report is clear but very windy[:@]

The ones I built for myself were smaller and plans built. The only problem I had was getting the landing gear plane into trim. After doing a lot of study of the plane I found out that LG plane was one of the trim methods used on the full scale. My small ones were also very heavy and to my surprise they handled the wind very well. Mater of fact the wind helped a bunch on take off and landing. I have flown a lot of the WWI Bipes and the D-VII is the best handling of all of them, in any size.

Thanks for letting me know how well it handled the wind. If it is not to windy in the morning I my just get the maiden done and out of the way. Right now they are saying wing just will be 20 to 25MPH. The plane weigh's in at 15lbs so if the wind in the morning is 20 or less I will give it a try

Back to the magnet glueI use Goop, any version they are all the same. For a small hatch to adjust my needles on my engine I used a piece of old single edge razor blade (not the sharp edge) which is thin enough to provide just the right amount of hold to keep it shut but allow me to open it with my fingernail. Nice plane! good luck on the maiden.

I have 3 more models I want to put the Magnets on. Revolver 70, Phonenix 330s and an Giles 202. All have Conpy's the come off and I am tired of messing with the scews to hold them on. All are large plans with DLE-20's in them. I have some shoe goo that I may try on the Revolver 70 tonight.

Hello,

Just what I do ___

I use 5 min or 12 min epoxy but I also have used regular aliphatic glue.

The holding power of the magnets depends (vary) with the gap provided.

Experiments are done with non-magnetic temporary shims like cardboad to determine the holding power desired.

Two magnets can be used with proper polarity. We want attraction not repulsion .

A single magnet can be used with a magnetic material for the other component. It can be a disk of tin can material (not aluminum LOL) or the head of a magnetic machine screw or bolt or magnetic wood screw.

The magnet should be held by the glue mechanically, not only by adhesion.
That is done by the shape of the cured glue. Any surplus glue can be filed or sanded away.

If this does not help anyone it does not hurt either.

Do what you like.

Zor

@Zor, Thanks for that drawing... "a picture is worth......"<div></div><div>How muchepoxywould you "start" with on the top of the magnet, before you begin adding to modify holding power.... approximately?


BTW, @jstanton... simply <u>GEORGEOUS</u> !! Who's plane or kit?


Thanks guys,

Don</div>

The plane is a ECOMRC 1/5 Fokker D-VII that is sold by Troy Built. Nice kit but needs alot of nosie weight to balance.

I've had no problem holding a magnet on its outside and bottom with glue. I've never seen glue used over the top. <div>
</div><div>I had a small neodymium (very strong!) magnet on a foam plane and had the foam around it pull away with the magnet.  I then put in some lite ply to hold the magnet. The magnet is a very snug fit in the ply. Ditto on a ferrous screw to mate it with, works great. When I glue in the magnet, I place a small piece of saran wrap or other thin plastic film between the magnet and its mate. This keeps the glue off things, and creates a small gap which maximizes the holding power. </div>

Hello Don

I sure agree that Jim Stanton model is a superb achievement.

Concerning the magnets, the gap needed in terms of distance of attraction depends quite obviously on the size and strength of the magnets and the amount of attraction needed or desired.

The best method I have found is to experiment before using any binder (glue / cement).
Some thin cardboard typically 0.005" to 0.010" thick and layers of paper typically 0.002" to 0.005" thick can be cut to initially occupy the space that the binder will occupy and help determine the gap appropriate for the specific application.

In one use I actually left the cardboard and paper in place and saturated them with diluted epoxy.
There should be some epoxy underneath and around the periphery in orde not to rely on the adhesion of the top surface only.

One magnet alone can be used attracting to a piece of magnetic metal like tin can or screw head.
Two magnets can be used in the proper polarities for attraction. This may need a longer gap.

Ya ___it all makes sense ___doesn't it ?

Remember that magnets are easier to separate sliding away than pulling straight out.
Provision for separation has to be figured out. A small tab or tiny screw head that can be grabbed with fingers is appropriate.

Zor

</div>

@ jstanton:  Thanks, that is definately on my list of next plane to build.<div>
</div><div>@Zor:  "I am not worthy "with arms bowing to you" for your hellp!!!  I very much appreciate it.  Yes, I agree on size weight and strength on magnet.... I was going to put in my original post to you, but decided I would allow you to describe w/o any of my "assumptions" if you know what I mean.... sometimes that hinders discussion.  Anyway, I really do appreciate your ideas/suggestions/teachings, and will employ what your have described on the two ARF's that I need to apply this technique to.</div><div>
</div><div>Thanks so much.</div><div>
</div><div>Don</div>