I've never seen magnets 'skinned' with glue, including jets, ARFs and kits. It weakens the holding power of the magnet, plus the circumference is doing the attachment. Much more effective to have the base of the magnet (and the outside) securely glued to a substrate.

Hello eddieC,

While you may not have seen magnets "skinned" with glue, does not mean it is impracticle or foolish.

Rare earth magnets are so strong that R42 magnets having 8 mm dia and 3 mm thick have a pull of about 4 1/2 lbs.

A gap of approximately 1.0 mm to 1.5 mm is needed to make it practical to pull them apart without sliding.
Even a 2.0 mm gap can be practical to keep hatches in position.

The magnetic field of a magnet does not change with its surrounding. The surrounding can only change the shape of the field if that surroounding has magnetic material.

The glue is not magnetic and has no effect on the field.

Anyone knows better ? I am always opened to learn.

<span style="color: #ff0000">MERRY XMAS

</span><span style="color: #000080">Zor
</span>

@Zor, well put and/or very well described.  <div>
</div><div>Thank you for that information, as I am also a person who loves to learn.</div><div>
</div><div>Don</div>

<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Zor, I understand what you mean, and I didn't call it impractical or foolish so plz don't put words in my mouth. </span><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">I use pretty powerful magnets and haven't had problems with getting any of them apart, except the aforementioned Yardbird foamy that suffered damage on a landing and had the foam fail. I've never seen a magnet skinned, including countless kits, ARFs, jets and giant scale planes. I use the right size magnet for the job to begin with, so it doesn't need the 'skin' to help detachment. </span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">It would seem to me your skin technique is only to aid in separation so that </span><span style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); ">breakaway pull is decreased, it </span><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); ">does nothing to increase attachment to the structure as the OP originally asked. The 'skin' is attached to the structure on the outside of the magnet, so there's no increase in attachment strength. Far from being an improved technique, it reduces the maximum hold of the magnet from the start and thus would seem counterproductive. </span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); ">If you want help with removal, I would suggest starting with the right size magnet to begin with. I too enjoy learning new things, but 'not all new things are an improvement'. </span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); ">One thing I did to an Ultrafly Mig 29 hatch was install an extra magnet on the hatch. The fuselage foam for the metal screw was thin, so I cut a small area out and epoxied in a hard balsa block. I can screw the small wood screw out for magnet-to-metal security, or screw it in slightly an get rid of the 'clack' sound when the canopy seats and magnet hits metal. </span></div>

I just create a pocket for the magnet to fit then use 0.75oz cloth and epoxy over it. The pocket itself also gets a good slathering of epoxy. The hatch just get a piece of ferrous metal as the other part of the connection.

</p>

I did not put words into your mouth and did not imply that you had said that since you obviously did not in your writings.</p>


</p>

The LHS here does not carry any magnets. I bought my magnets from a Home Depot that carries only the size popular on kitchen cupboards. They are (as I wrote before) 8 mm dia and 3 mm thick and have a rating of 4 1/2 lbs. If there is no gap it is quite difficult to pull 4 1/2 lbs with two fingers on a model hatch. .</p>

</p>

As you can read just above, it is not easy to find many sizes. It is not a high volume item and stock is restricted. One advantage of having a smooth surface is avoiding recesses when claning the model.
We do not necessarily need or want the maximum attraction when smaller magnets are not available.</p>

</p>

A good idea. I had to do something similar on the canopy of my Radian pro.</p>

<span style="color: #ff0000">MERRY XMAS</span></p>

Zor
</p>

McMaster-Carr is a great source for magnets.

I've glued a thin piece of plywood over the magnet to hold it down. The trick is to get the right strength magnet for the spacing involved. Never been comfortable with gluing metal.

McMaster Carr is a great source for a lot of things

Have a look

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...y-lost-232568/

Zor