Loctite ?
#6
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From: Huntington,
IN
I forgot I picked up the JB Weld Perma-Lock from Menards... It's the medium strength, is it about the same thing? They didn't have Loctite.
Says it's temp resistant to 300 degrees.. Will that still work on a .42 sized engine?
Says it's temp resistant to 300 degrees.. Will that still work on a .42 sized engine?
#7
ORIGINAL: BillinIndiana
I forgot I picked up the JB Weld Perma-Lock from Menards... It's the medium strength, is it about the same thing? They didn't have Loctite.
Says it's temp resistant to 300 degrees.. Will that still work on a .42 sized engine?
I forgot I picked up the JB Weld Perma-Lock from Menards... It's the medium strength, is it about the same thing? They didn't have Loctite.
Says it's temp resistant to 300 degrees.. Will that still work on a .42 sized engine?
#8
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From: Huntington,
IN
Thanks Gary... I don't think that it is exactly Permanent...? It's the medium and says removable on the little bottle <a href="http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAVKJ" target="_blank">www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p
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#10

My Feedback: (-1)
The only glow engines I have ever used it on was the OS .46 LA engines. The head is held on with 4 long screws. After three of the LAs head screws backed out during the run in I used the lock tite on them. I pulled each screw and cleaned the screw and threads in the engine with acetone then used a drop of lock tite on the screw threads. Let the engines stand over night before I fired them up. That seemed to do the trick.
Other then those engines and threads I have never used it on any engine, RC engine! I go the other way and still have an 8 ounce bottle of Anti Seize and use a little of it on all the engine screws during a rebuild. For headers that come loose I run the engine until hot then re tighten the locking nut on the header and muffler. I have had headers break but never just come loose.
I do lock tite motor mount screws that go into blind nuts and use fiber lock nuts on most others.
Once upon a time I removed the aluminum threads that got stuck to the steel screws when using lock tite, that's when I started using the anti seize on anything that used steel screws going into aluminum threads.
As an RC engine re builder I run into head screws all the time that are one jump from impossible to remove that lock tite was used on. Removing them is a true thrill.
Other then those engines and threads I have never used it on any engine, RC engine! I go the other way and still have an 8 ounce bottle of Anti Seize and use a little of it on all the engine screws during a rebuild. For headers that come loose I run the engine until hot then re tighten the locking nut on the header and muffler. I have had headers break but never just come loose.
I do lock tite motor mount screws that go into blind nuts and use fiber lock nuts on most others.
Once upon a time I removed the aluminum threads that got stuck to the steel screws when using lock tite, that's when I started using the anti seize on anything that used steel screws going into aluminum threads.
As an RC engine re builder I run into head screws all the time that are one jump from impossible to remove that lock tite was used on. Removing them is a true thrill.
#11
I agree a 100% with Gene on the anti seize. Not only does it help against galling, it also helps to protect against galvanic reaction and electrolysis. And those split lock washers? They don't work very well in my testing at work. If you have trouble with screws backing out, I would suggest to never put loctite on the threads of an engine. But if you still have screws coming loose, use the anti seize on the threads, and apply a small amount of the permanent type of thread locker like Loctite 290 under the head of the screw and on the mating surface. You can do that after the screw is tightened, it will get in there and you will still be able to remove the screws.
At work we use Loctite 290 to hold the outer race of bearings with only 0.0002" clearance.
At work we use Loctite 290 to hold the outer race of bearings with only 0.0002" clearance.
#12
I'm sure if you go to the Loctite website, it will tell you what each type is good for. I've used the 242 (blue) on muffler nuts and bolts, the green on smaller hardware (#2), but I've only used the red on things I don't want to take apart again! Follow their directions, they are worth reading. Loctite holds up to muffler temps very well, but keep it away from plastic.
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From: pine bluffs,
WY
I agree with anti seize on where there is heat,I use clear silicon on some stuff that mite vibrate it turns to rubber and does not let stuff unwind but parts unscrew without wipeing out the threads.




