Top Flite GS P-47 sports scale; diary of a build
TB
TB
TB
Just be glad you did not put the gear in the scale position, as it rely compounds the problems, plus no one notices it any way.
I realy like how you are doing it, lots of great idea's for the next time.
Cheers Bob T
AMA13377
Pics are not working again, guess the band-aid fell off again!
Pics will be up on RCG!
TB
lets try this again!
The first thing I did was to layout the gear box. I used my 3 views drawings to give me an idea of the size and location. Then I bolt down the gear in its correct location. I use a steel 1/4” rod to line the two mains up so they are in line with each other. This gives me near perfect alignment. I can measure to see how fare each gear is from the leading edge and adjust the gear with shims if needed. At first I shimmed the inner rail to push the axle of the gear closer to the LE. But this created problems with the wheel as it lay in the wheel well. So I went back to the original mounting without shims.
Next I made a jig to fit over the axle and this gave me a way to great the circle and to measure the location of the axle in relation to the LE and the center of the wing. The first circle was 5” I always tried to go small and then enlarge as I checked. This helped in over cutting but it did not eliminate that phenomenon
After cutting the first wheel I traced the pattern onto some wax paper and then laid it over the left side. This gave me a good start to getting both as close to the same as I could.
Next I cut the first opening as close as I could and still allow the gear to inter and exit freely, don’t want it hanging up. The proses was slow and steady, I felt like I was in the operating room doing surgery for 8hr strait. There where a few times were I thought I was not going to be able to get the gear in with the wheels I have, and resort to smaller thinner wheels. But after adjusting and tweaking I got them in to satisfactory. I did have a couple over cuts, but very minor and I think they will disappear with the final cutting. I will clean it up and the gear doors will be about a 1/16” bigger all around, may even be an 1/8”
I cut a temple out of 1/32” birch ply to use for the opening. I will make my gear door the same way with 1/32" ply and then once I know they are good I will trace them onto my carbon fiber layups.
I did have to shim the left gear an 1/8” to bring it equal in height with the right gear. I will check that again when I test the gear. It wont affect the opening, just the height from bottom of the wing.
I picked up some 1/4” pins at Austin bolt to use for my axles. This way I have no bulky bolt, just the pin and I will cut two slots for my set screws.
TB
I am working on the servo hatches now. I started on the left wing first. I have learned that I can not trust myself so I marked each side of the wing with red marker “L” and “R” hopefully I wont screw this up
TB
TB
It is realy great to watch your build.
If you are intersted go to the warbird & warplanes form and look up T/S G/S P-47 ya another bloody one by pete oz back in the early post he did the mod by adding a third spar, So I said I can do that and as the 47 was my second warbird build I did a mock up from the center out 7 ribs to get the angle's right and it worked. But with secound sight I wish I had just gone with the sierra gear would have been a lot easyer. Any way have alook if you have time
Now I will go back to my dish and just watch
Cheers Bob T
TB
The hard part is over, cutting the gear into the wing is the most risky part, cutting the doors is not to bad simply because you can always layup a new set. So I started with a template I cut using 1/32 birth ply.
Next I marked the location and made adjustments if necessary, always checking the left wing as I proceeded.
When I laid up my carbon fiber doors I marked the orientation on the sheets so I could place them where they originally were laid up on. So I marked the locations using control line and taped them down. I also transferred the same control lines to the template.
Next came the transfer of the template to the layup.
Once I was satisfied with the placement I taped down the gear and traced the outline with a fresh #11 blade scoring the glass.
After scoring the glass I used the dremel to cut the a deeper line close to the score but not on it. Then I used a razor chisel and removed the balsa from the carbon shell. I treated this kind of like doing Mylar covering. I used a fresh blade to trim the cut so I did not pull the balsa. After the cutting was done I used various sanding blocks to sand the fiber and the edge of the cutout.
TB
The carbon shell provides a great lip for the doors to sit on. I fitted all the parts and made adjustments with the sanding bar so they fit in nice and tight. Once I was happy with the fit I trimmed the shell back to 1/8” all around. Some spots I had over cut the opening when I fit the gear as mentioned in previous posts. But nothing to bad.
Next I used my 3 views to locate the separation of the three pieces. I just eyed it being this is not a scale build
TB