Top Flite GS P-47 sports scale; diary of a build
05-16-2014, 05:11 AM
#1378
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Missouri
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That chipmunk puts a grin on my face just looking at it.
I used to think who would want to build anything but war birds.
Guess that came from childhood dreams. ( I still have a heart for them )
But my horizons have broadened.
One for the chipmonk
Kevin
I used to think who would want to build anything but war birds.
Guess that came from childhood dreams. ( I still have a heart for them )
But my horizons have broadened.
One for the chipmonk
Kevin
05-16-2014, 08:23 AM
#1382
Ok so the chippy is next. I really need a long board to surf with around here and the chippy is great for that. This kit allows for a very scale build if you want. I will do panel lines, rivets, and other scale details. Being I have built this kit before I know all my mistakes and how to improve the build, that alone is the main reason I want to rebuild this kit. With the new DLE55r it will be a perfect fit, a split cowl will allow for a tight fit and the performance is great. The fixed gear keeps cost and build time down.Technically it is a warbird in origin. I am assembling all I need so I can get to it when I'm in the finishing stages of Angie. Really all I need is the kit and engine, I have the servos and electronics, the Robart struts will be the newer 5/8" struts at $100 for the pair with a custom built mounting base like the last chippy. Improved ailerons and elevator will give more controlling in the Hi-alpha. Being it is a modified chipmunk the sky is the limit to what you do with it. Thanks for all the input.
TB
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 05-16-2014 at 08:25 AM.
05-17-2014, 05:02 AM
#1386
Last time we were working on the hatch I had mentioned I was doing a revision to the system. The install was clean and worked fine but I did not like the results of the balsa surround that is the cutout for the hatch. It is soft and even after glassing it will chip and dent. On the prototype I was experiencing this being the hatch was cut after glassing and the raw edge of the balsa skin was vulnerable.
So I cut about a 1/4" all the way around the hatch removing the balsa skin .
Then I wrapped the hatch with cling wrap and set it back in place. I only did one half at a time, so the bottom was done first. Then I sanded that down after it dried. I am using the light weight evercoat bondo, it is a two part mix very similar to the evercoat easy sand, but it is a thicker consistency. It does sand very easily.
After the bottom was done I removed the hatch and wrapped it again and replaced it, then more evercoat.
I sanded this down to the results you see.
I will putty the area and sand it all down, hatch and all. Then after glassing I will hit the hatch with a thin coat of evercoat and sand it all flush to the glass, then prim and sand. That should give a smooth flush finish all around.
The hatch will get sanded along the edges to loosen it up. I like to start with a tight fit then sand to my liking, just enough to not bind and to give that penciled line look.
Next I will install the hand hold that will release the hatch.
Man it is good to be back
TB
So I cut about a 1/4" all the way around the hatch removing the balsa skin .
Then I wrapped the hatch with cling wrap and set it back in place. I only did one half at a time, so the bottom was done first. Then I sanded that down after it dried. I am using the light weight evercoat bondo, it is a two part mix very similar to the evercoat easy sand, but it is a thicker consistency. It does sand very easily.
After the bottom was done I removed the hatch and wrapped it again and replaced it, then more evercoat.
I sanded this down to the results you see.
I will putty the area and sand it all down, hatch and all. Then after glassing I will hit the hatch with a thin coat of evercoat and sand it all flush to the glass, then prim and sand. That should give a smooth flush finish all around.
The hatch will get sanded along the edges to loosen it up. I like to start with a tight fit then sand to my liking, just enough to not bind and to give that penciled line look.
Next I will install the hand hold that will release the hatch.
Man it is good to be back
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 05-17-2014 at 05:06 AM.
05-17-2014, 05:12 AM
#1387
Hatch Video # 7
Here is the revised hatch surround. In the video I keep calling the bondo ultra coat but it is evercoat light weight bondo.
http://youtu.be/JS7gRndeZuo TB
Here is the revised hatch surround. In the video I keep calling the bondo ultra coat but it is evercoat light weight bondo.
http://youtu.be/JS7gRndeZuo TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 05-17-2014 at 05:14 AM.
05-17-2014, 07:16 AM
#1389
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Evansville, IN
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Nice job - I actually did the same thing on my P-40. I found the surround was soft so used Bondo to fill it in and strengthen. It fits perfect now and looks good.
Thanks to your video and help!!!
Thanks to your video and help!!!
05-17-2014, 08:31 AM
#1391
Hand Hold
The hand hold for hatch #3 is done and installed. The method and proses is always evolving so this one was easier and better then the first ones.
First I cut the hand hold bracket out of 1/16" G-10, the handle is carbon fiber laminate.
Then I cut the opening, got lucky and it fell right between to 1/4" stringers.
A little adjusting may be required to get the handle to flush out with the skin. Once you fit it you may need to sand the handle frame or add some 1/64" ply to shim it out. Then I add a tab for the handle to rest on in the closed position.
I glue the frame in on to the skin of the fuselage. Once I like the alignment I tack it from the outside with thin CA, then I go around it from outside to inside and glue it with thin CA, being carful not to glue the handle to the frame.
Now all that is left is to hook it up to the hatch release.
TB
First I cut the hand hold bracket out of 1/16" G-10, the handle is carbon fiber laminate.
Then I cut the opening, got lucky and it fell right between to 1/4" stringers.
A little adjusting may be required to get the handle to flush out with the skin. Once you fit it you may need to sand the handle frame or add some 1/64" ply to shim it out. Then I add a tab for the handle to rest on in the closed position.
I glue the frame in on to the skin of the fuselage. Once I like the alignment I tack it from the outside with thin CA, then I go around it from outside to inside and glue it with thin CA, being carful not to glue the handle to the frame.
Now all that is left is to hook it up to the hatch release.
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 05-17-2014 at 08:56 AM.
05-17-2014, 10:28 AM
#1393
Here are the final videos in the hatch series.
http://youtu.be/fj9u24PRGKk http://youtu.be/QmSwiayv4fw TB
http://youtu.be/fj9u24PRGKk http://youtu.be/QmSwiayv4fw TB
05-17-2014, 10:30 AM
#1394
The hatches and the hand holds are all done and now I can get the fuselage ready for glassing. I like to get that done so I can work on the other items that need to get done on the fuse but this way it is not as venerable to scratching and dinging.
TB
TB
05-17-2014, 02:59 PM
#1398
I am doing some finishing tests. Chad has been very nice about working with me and supplying me with test sheets to see what works for the specific look I am going for. He has made me custom rivets spacing and sizing's, custom panels and hatch covers. I am playing with bras colored fasteners for the painted areas so this test is to see how that looks along with trying some other paint.
The paint I tested was the Dupli-Color Silver caliper Paint, This is just for testing color and the fasteners for now.
From the first look it is not much different in color from the Klas Kote paint that Gary tested. The orange peal does make a big difference and that can be worked out. It is my understanding that to do silver right it has so co on very smooth without orange peal affect, otherwise it just looks like paint.
You can see the difference in the look as the paint on the vinyl verses the paint on the fuselage with the orange peal.
I'm not looking for the polished aluminum look more of the weathered look so this is getting closer.
Next I will apply the bras fasteners.
TB
The paint I tested was the Dupli-Color Silver caliper Paint, This is just for testing color and the fasteners for now.
From the first look it is not much different in color from the Klas Kote paint that Gary tested. The orange peal does make a big difference and that can be worked out. It is my understanding that to do silver right it has so co on very smooth without orange peal affect, otherwise it just looks like paint.
You can see the difference in the look as the paint on the vinyl verses the paint on the fuselage with the orange peal.
I'm not looking for the polished aluminum look more of the weathered look so this is getting closer.
Next I will apply the bras fasteners.
TB