12' Laser-cut Telemaster Kit Build
06-28-2013, 04:40 PM
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RE: 12' Laser-cut Telemaster Kit Build
Wing construction cont'd:
- W10 is added next to the wing strut bay assembly. This locks thewhole thingtogether and produces quite a strong assembly.
- Once this was dry I lightly sanded the bottom of the assembly to level off the ribs and the front strut mounting plate.
- The wing strut mount caps were installed next. These are lite-ply pieces that go span-wise between W9 and W10. After this assembly was dry I reinforced all the glue joints with Titebond. I had thought about adding triangle stock to reinforce the joints, but after the assembly was dry it is super-strong and I decided to leave as-is. If the strut mount plate get pulled out of the wing there are most likely other more serious problems at hand.
- The last two photos in this post show the completed wing strut mounting bay. The two large holes towards the spar are acutally hand-holds. I think this is a great idea, as no telling what effects the wind will have on these barn-door wings when trying to move them from the truck to the plane.
Next post - adding the remaining ribs!
- W10 is added next to the wing strut bay assembly. This locks thewhole thingtogether and produces quite a strong assembly.
- Once this was dry I lightly sanded the bottom of the assembly to level off the ribs and the front strut mounting plate.
- The wing strut mount caps were installed next. These are lite-ply pieces that go span-wise between W9 and W10. After this assembly was dry I reinforced all the glue joints with Titebond. I had thought about adding triangle stock to reinforce the joints, but after the assembly was dry it is super-strong and I decided to leave as-is. If the strut mount plate get pulled out of the wing there are most likely other more serious problems at hand.
- The last two photos in this post show the completed wing strut mounting bay. The two large holes towards the spar are acutally hand-holds. I think this is a great idea, as no telling what effects the wind will have on these barn-door wings when trying to move them from the truck to the plane.
Next post - adding the remaining ribs!
07-01-2013, 02:59 AM
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RE: 12' Laser-cut Telemaster Kit Build
Wing construction cont'd:
- Now that the strut mounting bay is complete it's time to mount it in the wing. This was done with 30min epoxy.
- The remaining ribs W11 thru W16 were added next
- The upper rear spar is beveled to fit the angle of the ribs. The instructions state to install it then use a plane to bevel the spar. I used my mini-tablesaw to add the bevel before installation. Thissaves a lot of planing/sanding, and also eliminates potential damage to the ribs from the sanding process.
- After adding the bevel, the next step is to add the upper rear spar. 30 min expoy was used at the root area and in the wing strut mount bay. Note that the root end of this spar (and the forward spar) have been mitered using the dihedral gauge so that the spar sits flush agains W1.
- I then added the main spar, again using 30 min epoxy at the root and wing strut mount bay. I did not glue the ribs to the sparright awayas I wanted to have the opportunity to square up the ribs to the building board one at a time. I did this using a square and glued the ribs to the spar with CA.
The wing is actually very easy to build, and frames up quickly. Part fit is excellent. As more pieces are added the structure is becoming a lot stronger.
- Now that the strut mounting bay is complete it's time to mount it in the wing. This was done with 30min epoxy.
- The remaining ribs W11 thru W16 were added next
- The upper rear spar is beveled to fit the angle of the ribs. The instructions state to install it then use a plane to bevel the spar. I used my mini-tablesaw to add the bevel before installation. Thissaves a lot of planing/sanding, and also eliminates potential damage to the ribs from the sanding process.
- After adding the bevel, the next step is to add the upper rear spar. 30 min expoy was used at the root area and in the wing strut mount bay. Note that the root end of this spar (and the forward spar) have been mitered using the dihedral gauge so that the spar sits flush agains W1.
- I then added the main spar, again using 30 min epoxy at the root and wing strut mount bay. I did not glue the ribs to the sparright awayas I wanted to have the opportunity to square up the ribs to the building board one at a time. I did this using a square and glued the ribs to the spar with CA.
The wing is actually very easy to build, and frames up quickly. Part fit is excellent. As more pieces are added the structure is becoming a lot stronger.
07-01-2013, 11:22 AM
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RE: 12' Laser-cut Telemaster Kit Build
Yes, for a almost a thousand dollar kit I would agree. I know I would really like for them to bevel the strips so we would not have to sand them seems such a trivial thing for such a well engineered kit...
I'm saving my pennies....
SB
I'm saving my pennies....
SB
07-01-2013, 04:02 PM
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RE: 12' Laser-cut Telemaster Kit Build
Wing construction cont'd:
This post will continue by finishing off the main wing structure. There will be a couple of bits and pieces left to add, but this is basically it.
- Work continues on the trailing edge with the addtion of a piece of 1/4" triangle stock to the bottom of the aileron bay.
- Two 1/2"x3/32" strips get glued to the leading edge plate. These elevate the leading edge so it can be made with the 1" high stock supplied.
- The trailing edge cap is fitted next. Thisconsistsof twopieces of 1/32" ply that need to be spliced together then glued to the trailing edge. The outboard section covers the forward section of the aileron and helps seal the control surface gap. While the TE cap is a bit of a pain to splice due to its thinness everything went well.
- The instructions call for the shear webs to be fitted pretty much at the end of the wing assembly. I decided to mount them now to help stiffen the wing and keep it straight and square. I glued the aft shear webs first, followed by the front ones. As per the instructions, I glued them to the outboard rib in each bay for added strength and to keep the ribssquare to the bottom of the building board.
- The leading edge, spliced from 2 pieces of 1/2" x 1" strip stock,was run throught the Proxxon table saw to add a bevel and was then glued to the leading edge plate.
- The two turbulator strips, from 1/4"x1/2" material, are glued into the corresponding slots in front of the ribs.
This concludes the basic wing structure. The next post will deal with the servo mount plates, followed by the wing tip.
This post will continue by finishing off the main wing structure. There will be a couple of bits and pieces left to add, but this is basically it.
- Work continues on the trailing edge with the addtion of a piece of 1/4" triangle stock to the bottom of the aileron bay.
- Two 1/2"x3/32" strips get glued to the leading edge plate. These elevate the leading edge so it can be made with the 1" high stock supplied.
- The trailing edge cap is fitted next. Thisconsistsof twopieces of 1/32" ply that need to be spliced together then glued to the trailing edge. The outboard section covers the forward section of the aileron and helps seal the control surface gap. While the TE cap is a bit of a pain to splice due to its thinness everything went well.
- The instructions call for the shear webs to be fitted pretty much at the end of the wing assembly. I decided to mount them now to help stiffen the wing and keep it straight and square. I glued the aft shear webs first, followed by the front ones. As per the instructions, I glued them to the outboard rib in each bay for added strength and to keep the ribssquare to the bottom of the building board.
- The leading edge, spliced from 2 pieces of 1/2" x 1" strip stock,was run throught the Proxxon table saw to add a bevel and was then glued to the leading edge plate.
- The two turbulator strips, from 1/4"x1/2" material, are glued into the corresponding slots in front of the ribs.
This concludes the basic wing structure. The next post will deal with the servo mount plates, followed by the wing tip.
07-02-2013, 06:30 PM
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RE: 12' Laser-cut Telemaster Kit Build
Wing construction cont'd:
Well, it appears I misunderstood myself when I said that the wing was nearly done. Apparently there are several other things that needed to be added prior to the wing tips. We'll start with the servo mount plates.
- The servo mount plates are 1/8" lite ply with basswood backers to act as reinforcements for the servo screws.I glued the basswood strips to the servo plates with CA and Mitrebond. One little glitch - the piece of material provided in the kit is not long enough to cut all 8 backer strips - the last one is about 1/2" short. I'll have to scrounge the parts bin to find a chunk to fill in the gap. Once the servo mount plate assemblied were cured I epoxied them to the wing with 30 min epoxy.
- Another poster on this thread had an issue with a servo mount plate coming loose and ultimately causing the loss of the airframe. Given his warnings I decided to reinforce the servor mounts with triangle stock and epoxy. Of particular interest is that the servo mounts do not touch the aft spar - there is about a 3/32" gap. I used 1/2" triangle stock to bridge this gap and provide a solid connection from the servo mount plate to the aft spar. 1/4" triangle stock was used at the sides. I also added anadditional piece of 1/4" square basswood at the front of the plates to stiffen them up.(Notshown in theattached photos.)
-The wing bar issupported in the first few bays of the wingby 1/8"x1/4" basswood stock, much like in the fuselage. These little guys werekind of tricky to add. Lastly partWBS was added. This is the stopper forthe wing bar, and also helps to stiffen the wing. Note that adding this part was notmentioned in the instructions.
Another thing that was not mentioned in theinstructions wasgluing down theTEonce all the ribs were installed. I did thisby running a bead of thinCAat the jointwherethe spar meets the TE plate.
Next up - installing the diagonal ribs, and general tidying up!
Well, it appears I misunderstood myself when I said that the wing was nearly done. Apparently there are several other things that needed to be added prior to the wing tips. We'll start with the servo mount plates.
- The servo mount plates are 1/8" lite ply with basswood backers to act as reinforcements for the servo screws.I glued the basswood strips to the servo plates with CA and Mitrebond. One little glitch - the piece of material provided in the kit is not long enough to cut all 8 backer strips - the last one is about 1/2" short. I'll have to scrounge the parts bin to find a chunk to fill in the gap. Once the servo mount plate assemblied were cured I epoxied them to the wing with 30 min epoxy.
- Another poster on this thread had an issue with a servo mount plate coming loose and ultimately causing the loss of the airframe. Given his warnings I decided to reinforce the servor mounts with triangle stock and epoxy. Of particular interest is that the servo mounts do not touch the aft spar - there is about a 3/32" gap. I used 1/2" triangle stock to bridge this gap and provide a solid connection from the servo mount plate to the aft spar. 1/4" triangle stock was used at the sides. I also added anadditional piece of 1/4" square basswood at the front of the plates to stiffen them up.(Notshown in theattached photos.)
-The wing bar issupported in the first few bays of the wingby 1/8"x1/4" basswood stock, much like in the fuselage. These little guys werekind of tricky to add. Lastly partWBS was added. This is the stopper forthe wing bar, and also helps to stiffen the wing. Note that adding this part was notmentioned in the instructions.
Another thing that was not mentioned in theinstructions wasgluing down theTEonce all the ribs were installed. I did thisby running a bead of thinCAat the jointwherethe spar meets the TE plate.
Next up - installing the diagonal ribs, and general tidying up!
07-02-2013, 06:54 PM
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RE: 12' Laser-cut Telemaster Kit Build
Wing construction cont'd:
- The wing construction continues with the addition of diagonal ribs. These are fitted in the wing bays on an angle in an alternating fashionto help stiffen the wing structure. The ribs are supplied with square ends, which for the most part is OK for installation as there is are tabs at each end that goe in the space between the top and bottom spars. I decided to bevel the ends fo the ribs that contacted the spars to give a better glue joint. This angle is roughly 30degrees. I made a little tool to help bevel the ribs. Just stick the rib in the slot to the proper depth and use a razor blade to cut the bevel using the face of the tool as a guide. Works like a charm and could be included in the kit!
- For the most part the diagonal ribs were easy to install. Bays 2 and 3 required some additional trimming to clear the wing bar support strips. Bays4 and12 required a lotof fitting to clear the reinforcements that I had added. No biggie, just a fewextra minutes of fiddling around.
- After thediagonal ribs were installed I gave the wing a once over and decidedto fix a couple of details on the bottom. I filled the small gaps between the servo mount plates and TE plate. I also filled the holes in thewing strut mount bayon the bottom.There was norealspot to attach thecovering in this area.Also, Ifilled in theholes toprotect thecovering from being punctured by the wing struts.
-Bonzerr1 came up with the idea of adding a blind nut to the root rib to accomodate a bolt installed from inside the fuselage to prevent the wing from rotating. While the anti-rotation mechanism looks pretty solid Ithought adding this nut and bolt would be a good security feature. There are several photos of the wing root area with the wing bar installed showing this feature.
Up next - the wing tips!
- The wing construction continues with the addition of diagonal ribs. These are fitted in the wing bays on an angle in an alternating fashionto help stiffen the wing structure. The ribs are supplied with square ends, which for the most part is OK for installation as there is are tabs at each end that goe in the space between the top and bottom spars. I decided to bevel the ends fo the ribs that contacted the spars to give a better glue joint. This angle is roughly 30degrees. I made a little tool to help bevel the ribs. Just stick the rib in the slot to the proper depth and use a razor blade to cut the bevel using the face of the tool as a guide. Works like a charm and could be included in the kit!
- For the most part the diagonal ribs were easy to install. Bays 2 and 3 required some additional trimming to clear the wing bar support strips. Bays4 and12 required a lotof fitting to clear the reinforcements that I had added. No biggie, just a fewextra minutes of fiddling around.
- After thediagonal ribs were installed I gave the wing a once over and decidedto fix a couple of details on the bottom. I filled the small gaps between the servo mount plates and TE plate. I also filled the holes in thewing strut mount bayon the bottom.There was norealspot to attach thecovering in this area.Also, Ifilled in theholes toprotect thecovering from being punctured by the wing struts.
-Bonzerr1 came up with the idea of adding a blind nut to the root rib to accomodate a bolt installed from inside the fuselage to prevent the wing from rotating. While the anti-rotation mechanism looks pretty solid Ithought adding this nut and bolt would be a good security feature. There are several photos of the wing root area with the wing bar installed showing this feature.
Up next - the wing tips!
07-02-2013, 07:08 PM
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RE: 12' Laser-cut Telemaster Kit Build
Wing construction cont'd:
Now that the basic wing structure is done (I checked, and it is!) now is the time to add the wing tips. These are built basically the same as those for the stab. Note thatthe left and right wing tips are built at the same time.
-First job was toremove the parts from the carrier sheets and sand off all the nibs. I then added a"sanding line" to the inside lower edge of each wing tip. While one is scribed on the parts, it is 1/16" too far away from the edge.
- I then deviated from the instructions a little bit and glued the 5 tip gussets in place, with the lower corners on the sanding line.
- Next was added the 1" triangle stock front and rear.
- Once the glue was dry I carved the bevel into the wing tip plate and finished off with sand paper. This is by far the easiest way to do this, and provides a perfectly flat surface for gluing to the tip rib.
- The tip was then glued to the tip rib W16 using a mix of CA and Tite-Bond.
- Once the glue set I added 3/8" triangle stock to the gussets where they join W16.
This concludes the wing construction. Before I sand it out I'll go over the glue joints and re-glue any dry-looking ones. Once that is done I'll shape the leading edge using the handy supplied template.
Next up - building the left wing!
Now that the basic wing structure is done (I checked, and it is!) now is the time to add the wing tips. These are built basically the same as those for the stab. Note thatthe left and right wing tips are built at the same time.
-First job was toremove the parts from the carrier sheets and sand off all the nibs. I then added a"sanding line" to the inside lower edge of each wing tip. While one is scribed on the parts, it is 1/16" too far away from the edge.
- I then deviated from the instructions a little bit and glued the 5 tip gussets in place, with the lower corners on the sanding line.
- Next was added the 1" triangle stock front and rear.
- Once the glue was dry I carved the bevel into the wing tip plate and finished off with sand paper. This is by far the easiest way to do this, and provides a perfectly flat surface for gluing to the tip rib.
- The tip was then glued to the tip rib W16 using a mix of CA and Tite-Bond.
- Once the glue set I added 3/8" triangle stock to the gussets where they join W16.
This concludes the wing construction. Before I sand it out I'll go over the glue joints and re-glue any dry-looking ones. Once that is done I'll shape the leading edge using the handy supplied template.
Next up - building the left wing!
07-14-2013, 04:25 PM
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RE: 12' Laser-cut Telemaster Kit Build
Well, after a long absence I am back with short post, certainly in relation to the amount of work that has been donelately.
The left wing is now complete! The last picture in this post shows both wings against the closet doors outside my workshop.This is going to be a big airplane!!
Next up - building the ailerons and flaps...
The left wing is now complete! The last picture in this post shows both wings against the closet doors outside my workshop.This is going to be a big airplane!!
Next up - building the ailerons and flaps...
07-15-2013, 06:24 PM
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RE: 12' Laser-cut Telemaster Kit Build
Now that the wings are pretty much finished other than sanding them out our attention turns to the ailerons and flaps. The ailerons and flaps build on laser-cut plates much like the wing and stab. These components don't need to be built over the plans, so I am working on all four assemblies at once to save time. The posts, however, will generally follow the instructions and will start with the ailerons.
- With the aileron bases flat on the building board, the first step is to add a trailing edge doubler.
- Next step is to glue the end ribs (A1 and A9) to the base. While the instructions say to tack the ribs on, I went ahead and glued them with Tite-Bond. I made sure though to keep the slots for the spar material clear.
- Once the end ribs are glued ona basswood spar is slipped into the center notches, and a balsa stick that serves as a glue land for the leading edge is slipped into the notches towards the front of the aileron.
- All the remaining ribs were installed. Once these were dry I glued the spar and the front stick to the aileron ribs and base with thin CA.
- The aileron hinge pockets are assembled on the registration pins, much like the hinge pockets for the stab. While repetitive this phase of the assembly goes quickly.
- The aileron control horn pocket was assembled in a similar fashion.
Next up - finishing off the ailerons!
- With the aileron bases flat on the building board, the first step is to add a trailing edge doubler.
- Next step is to glue the end ribs (A1 and A9) to the base. While the instructions say to tack the ribs on, I went ahead and glued them with Tite-Bond. I made sure though to keep the slots for the spar material clear.
- Once the end ribs are glued ona basswood spar is slipped into the center notches, and a balsa stick that serves as a glue land for the leading edge is slipped into the notches towards the front of the aileron.
- All the remaining ribs were installed. Once these were dry I glued the spar and the front stick to the aileron ribs and base with thin CA.
- The aileron hinge pockets are assembled on the registration pins, much like the hinge pockets for the stab. While repetitive this phase of the assembly goes quickly.
- The aileron control horn pocket was assembled in a similar fashion.
Next up - finishing off the ailerons!
08-01-2013, 05:16 PM
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RE: 12' Laser-cut Telemaster Kit Build
After a fishing trip and several interruptionsI amback toiling at the building board!
Tonight's first post finishes aileron construction.
-The aileron hinge pockets and control horn rib were added to the assembly.
- The top spar andleading edge componentswere added next.
- Once cured the assembly was removed from the building board. The trailing edge was then sanded and the leading edge strips blended to the radius of the ribs.
- The leading edge is made of a strip of 1/16" balsa that needs to be pre-curved before installation to match the round leading edge of the ribs. The instructions suggest soaking the wood in Windex and then using a 1" plastic pipe as a mandrelupon whichthe strip isformed, and then securedwithmesh drywall tape until dry.With no 1" plastic pipe in sight, Ilooked around the basement fora potential mandrel. Lo and behold, I spied the laundry rack!After wetting theleading edge strips asper the instructions I pressedthe laundry rack into service and used the vertical postsas mandrels. After forming the leadingedges around the mandrels I wrapped each one in drywall tape and left them to dry.
-The results were better than expected, with the leading edges assuming a permanent curve.
- As per the instructions I CA'd the leading edges to the aileron assemblies. The right hand LE snapped into place and was a cinch to glue in place. The left hand LE did not form as well as the RHpiece, so it was more of a challenge to get it to mate up with the aileron assembly. While a bit fiddly the LE's assembled with no major problems.
- The top sheeting was added as per the instructions.
- End caps from 1/64" plyare included for the ailerons and flaps.This is a nice finishing touch for the control surfaces, and once installed give a professionalappearance.
Next up - building the flaps!
Tonight's first post finishes aileron construction.
-The aileron hinge pockets and control horn rib were added to the assembly.
- The top spar andleading edge componentswere added next.
- Once cured the assembly was removed from the building board. The trailing edge was then sanded and the leading edge strips blended to the radius of the ribs.
- The leading edge is made of a strip of 1/16" balsa that needs to be pre-curved before installation to match the round leading edge of the ribs. The instructions suggest soaking the wood in Windex and then using a 1" plastic pipe as a mandrelupon whichthe strip isformed, and then securedwithmesh drywall tape until dry.With no 1" plastic pipe in sight, Ilooked around the basement fora potential mandrel. Lo and behold, I spied the laundry rack!After wetting theleading edge strips asper the instructions I pressedthe laundry rack into service and used the vertical postsas mandrels. After forming the leadingedges around the mandrels I wrapped each one in drywall tape and left them to dry.
-The results were better than expected, with the leading edges assuming a permanent curve.
- As per the instructions I CA'd the leading edges to the aileron assemblies. The right hand LE snapped into place and was a cinch to glue in place. The left hand LE did not form as well as the RHpiece, so it was more of a challenge to get it to mate up with the aileron assembly. While a bit fiddly the LE's assembled with no major problems.
- The top sheeting was added as per the instructions.
- End caps from 1/64" plyare included for the ailerons and flaps.This is a nice finishing touch for the control surfaces, and once installed give a professionalappearance.
Next up - building the flaps!
08-01-2013, 05:38 PM
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RE: 12' Laser-cut Telemaster Kit Build
Now that the ailerons are complete attention shifts to the flaps. These are built off the plans on laser-cut plates.
-The first step is to add TE doublers to the flap plates.
- After this the hinge pocket plate is added using dowels in the registration holes to align the part with the flap base plate.
- In a slight departure from the instructions I glued the LEin place. In all honesty the flap section of the instructions is perhaps the worst written of all the sections, with the steps clearly out of order. The pictures are perhaps the best guide.
- Once the LE was glued in place I added hinge pocket cap strip.
- Next I assembled the flap control horn rib using the registration pins, making sure to remove the cutout in the balsa centre rib.
Next up - finishing the flaps!
-The first step is to add TE doublers to the flap plates.
- After this the hinge pocket plate is added using dowels in the registration holes to align the part with the flap base plate.
- In a slight departure from the instructions I glued the LEin place. In all honesty the flap section of the instructions is perhaps the worst written of all the sections, with the steps clearly out of order. The pictures are perhaps the best guide.
- Once the LE was glued in place I added hinge pocket cap strip.
- Next I assembled the flap control horn rib using the registration pins, making sure to remove the cutout in the balsa centre rib.
Next up - finishing the flaps!
08-01-2013, 05:45 PM
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RE: 12' Laser-cut Telemaster Kit Build
Flap construction continued:
- Installing the ribs and control horn rib was next and presented no problems.
- Once the glue had cured I added the basswood spars to the top of the flap assembly.
- The top of the flap is covered with a 1/16" sheet. This was added after the TEand LE were bevelled to match the ribs.
- As with the ailerons, the ends werefinished with a 1/64" ply cap.
- The last step was to add a piece of 3/8"x1/16" strip at the top of the LE of the flap. This serves to seal the surface when the flaps are "up".
Now that all the basic building is done, it is time to sand out all the assemblies. I have decided on a general colour scheme, and this is shown in the last pic of this post.
- Installing the ribs and control horn rib was next and presented no problems.
- Once the glue had cured I added the basswood spars to the top of the flap assembly.
- The top of the flap is covered with a 1/16" sheet. This was added after the TEand LE were bevelled to match the ribs.
- As with the ailerons, the ends werefinished with a 1/64" ply cap.
- The last step was to add a piece of 3/8"x1/16" strip at the top of the LE of the flap. This serves to seal the surface when the flaps are "up".
Now that all the basic building is done, it is time to sand out all the assemblies. I have decided on a general colour scheme, and this is shown in the last pic of this post.
12-10-2013, 06:59 PM
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Hey All,
I've also been watching for the next step on this SUPER flying plane as I'm really loving the ones that I have (2 flying,one in bones and one still in the box). Mine flys with a 23 cc motor but a larger engine (41cc)will be getting installed soon as she has problems climbing with 6-8 lbs of candy in her belly... Fly for Tots in Raleigh, NC here was GREAT fun....
TTYL,
Bruce
I've also been watching for the next step on this SUPER flying plane as I'm really loving the ones that I have (2 flying,one in bones and one still in the box). Mine flys with a 23 cc motor but a larger engine (41cc)will be getting installed soon as she has problems climbing with 6-8 lbs of candy in her belly... Fly for Tots in Raleigh, NC here was GREAT fun....
TTYL,
Bruce
01-31-2014, 06:35 PM
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Completed empennage:
The tail group, which includes the stab, elevator, fin, rudder, tail wheel and servos is removable as a whole from the fuselage to make transportation easy. The attached pictures show the tail group assembled with the hinges. The hinges fit perfectly in the hinge pockets. With the tail group assembled you start to get a sense of how big this airplane is going to be. I like to do all my sanding at once, so the empennage is going to be put aside for a bit while we move on the fuselage.
Next up - building the fuselage sides!
The tail group, which includes the stab, elevator, fin, rudder, tail wheel and servos is removable as a whole from the fuselage to make transportation easy. The attached pictures show the tail group assembled with the hinges. The hinges fit perfectly in the hinge pockets. With the tail group assembled you start to get a sense of how big this airplane is going to be. I like to do all my sanding at once, so the empennage is going to be put aside for a bit while we move on the fuselage.
Next up - building the fuselage sides!
02-01-2014, 03:04 PM
#73
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Hey All,
I would also like to know what has happened to this great build as I followed it since May 2013. isf2008 has not logged in since August and I hope all is well with him. I'm a Telemaster junky and I have been since the late 60'S!!
SrTelemaster150
I measured three of my Giants (we have six)and they were 50-51 inches on them all so I guess the NEW AND IMPROVED (laser cut)version would be the same. They changed a lot of things when Hobby Lobby took the Telemaster in the late 60'S just to make them easier to build.
TTYL,
Bruce
I would also like to know what has happened to this great build as I followed it since May 2013. isf2008 has not logged in since August and I hope all is well with him. I'm a Telemaster junky and I have been since the late 60'S!!
SrTelemaster150
I measured three of my Giants (we have six)and they were 50-51 inches on them all so I guess the NEW AND IMPROVED (laser cut)version would be the same. They changed a lot of things when Hobby Lobby took the Telemaster in the late 60'S just to make them easier to build.
TTYL,
Bruce
