Hello all. I ahave been out of flying for quite some time and i just got back in to it. I just bought the Top Flite Cessna Kit yesterday and thought i would build a plane and get back into the hobby since i really miss it. With that said, i have a very noob question that maybe some one here can help me with. Here goes :

I got to step 6 in the instruction manual and really am having a hard time trying to understand how this is suppose to be assembled. It tells you to pin the center stab brace to the plans then glue the stab te to it. after that there is a note that says to position the outboard ends of the TE about 1/2" above the board. The TE brace should be raised about 3/8". My question is do i glue the assembly flat on the plans then raise the assembly 3/8" or do i need to glue the te to the center brace with the tips 1/2" above the board ?

Kind of confused. any help would be greatly appreciated.


thanks.

The TE is tappered so for the TE to be staright the ends must be slightly higher than the center. You support the TE because the compled horizontal assembly is curved and not flat. supporting the TE makes sure the ribs in the Horizontal stab line up correctly. I'm still working on my TF 182 and whole heartly recommend the Robart nose wheel assembly. I have modified mibne to use 4 each forward facing 4 oz. fuel tanks instead of the sideways sitting 12 oz tank. I was worried the engine might starve out in an extended turn. For power I'm using a .75 Super Tigre with the discontinued TOPQ7925 header and TOPQ7916 Muffler. Hard to find but with it to me. If you look around you can occasionally find the discontinued TOPQ5405 Cessna Spinner (Red) or the Great Planes LearJet spinner (White). I have both but haven't decided on the one I will use. Here is an example of the color scheme I am planning. 2 of my 4 sons are former CAP cadets.

<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">FlyerinOKC,</span><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">I'm not sure I follow your thinking on substituting four tanks for one. Seems like amazing complexity for what shouldn't be a problem to begin with. </span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">The clunk in the 12-oz tank will move with the fuel in a turn, so starvation shouldn't occur. Just wondering, is there something about this plane that's different from other similar designs? I've never seen a 4-tank setup. </span></div>

Considering the general cause for engine problems is the tank, this will just multiply that by 4! I would try to make 1 tank work.

To the OP original question, shim up the TE before you glue it.

It's an old setup, I know several people who have used multiple tanks in series for similar reasons without an problems. The trick is to take you time and seal the lines properly. I have seen engines starve with a sideways tank, the fuel gets low an the airplane goes into an extended turn. Multiple tanks exsist in every commercial airline and most military airplanes. Setup properly it works.

Nice scheme with the CAP plane. <div>
</div><div>No one has reported any problem with the factory tank setup. I still don't understand your worry about starvation. In a 1G turn, the fuel stays level in the tank. The clunk follows the fuel when maneuvering, due to centrifugal force. I can't imagine troubleshooting with a 4-tank setup. We plumb header tanks in series in helis to keep a consistent needle setting, so I'm familiar with the setup. Yes, we use multiple tanks in full-scale (I fly corporate). They're not in series, and we have manual switching. <div>
</div><div>From the manual:</div><div>"We flew all of our test flights with the tank mounted in this position and experienced no problems."</div></div>

Hi,

I also have one question on this kit owners/builders. How did you make those two wing antenas and how do you secure them onto the wing?
Thanks for tips and preferably build photos,

Jan<br type="_moz" />

Look at your plans & Manual. The bottom is made from 1/2" diameter dowl with an "O" ring sitting in a groove on the dowl. The antenna fits in the wing bolt hole. I am planning on lining mine with brass tubing to reinforce the hole.

Thanks for the tip with the reinforcement. I was hoping that someone used different method than 1/2" wood dowl.
I have purchased some small rare earth magnets form ebay and I plan to glue them in the wing and onto the antena to secure them more in place. These magnets are quite strong for their size.
J.

The antennas are meant to hide the wing bolts so that prevents gluing in magnets unless you never want to remove the wing bolts.

I wanted to add them info the fron and rear of that bolt hole under the balsa skin. The antena is not perfect round shape as the bolt hole and is more like elipse from front to rear right?
That would be the place where I wold glue the small magnets to. They are small buttons like 1mm in height and 3mm in diameter.
J.

Depends on how you drill them.

So did you ever finish this beast?