G&L 1/5 DHC chipmunk - diary of a build.
06-30-2014, 04:34 PM
#251
Break time for a few days, I'm out of town on business for a few day . This will give me time to think about what is next.
I do know I need to finish the wing and mount it to the fuselage before I go any further. This needs to be done before I mount the stab and do the cockpit and canopy. This will also give me a chance to do some pre- CG checking before I do the canopy.
TB
I do know I need to finish the wing and mount it to the fuselage before I go any further. This needs to be done before I mount the stab and do the cockpit and canopy. This will also give me a chance to do some pre- CG checking before I do the canopy.
TB
07-02-2014, 03:32 AM
#253
Airborne Media products
Has anyone tried or used the Airborne Media Products Aero-Pac scale documentation CDRom?
Haven't heard anything about them.
http://www.airbornemedia.com/store/c...cye)/index.htm
thanks
TB
Haven't heard anything about them.
http://www.airbornemedia.com/store/c...cye)/index.htm
thanks
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 07-02-2014 at 08:19 AM.
07-02-2014, 07:03 AM
#254
Has anyone tried or used the Airborne Media Products Aero-Pac scale documentation CDRom?
Haven't heard anything about them.
http://www.airbornemedia.com/store/c...cye)/index.htm
thanks
TB
Haven't heard anything about them.
http://www.airbornemedia.com/store/c...cye)/index.htm
thanks
TB
07-06-2014, 02:43 AM
#256
I agree, I just marked it to start getting an idea of the shape. I take the image and blow it up to the right size on my computer screen then I place the ruder next to it. I will print this and go from there. I have a bit of reshaping to do being the ruder is one of the signature looks I need to get it right.
My ruder is way to big and I will reshape it when I get back to the fuselage.
The ruder has changed from the first design and there are a few to chose from so I will find the best fit that matches up with the scheme I am doing and the fine I have to work with. Both these are really small so I will play with this.
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 07-06-2014 at 03:00 AM.
07-06-2014, 09:28 PM
#258
Banned
Airfoil information
Hi guys,
This is for information only.
The Chipmunk is using two airfoils starting at the root with NACA 2415 and ending at the tip with USA 35B.
The USA 35B is nearly a Clark-Y airfoil.
The t/c ratio at the root is 14.75% and at the tip is 11.0%.
The center section incidence is +2 degrees to thrust line.
I will attempt to attach drawings of these airfoils.
NOTE ... the USA 35B is a huge pdf file. All anyone has to do is to keep clicking the minus ( - ) icon to bring it to full view on the monitor.
Zor
This is for information only.
The Chipmunk is using two airfoils starting at the root with NACA 2415 and ending at the tip with USA 35B.
The USA 35B is nearly a Clark-Y airfoil.
The t/c ratio at the root is 14.75% and at the tip is 11.0%.
The center section incidence is +2 degrees to thrust line.
I will attempt to attach drawings of these airfoils.
NOTE ... the USA 35B is a huge pdf file. All anyone has to do is to keep clicking the minus ( - ) icon to bring it to full view on the monitor.
Zor
Last edited by Zor; 07-06-2014 at 09:33 PM. Reason: Adding the NOTE
07-07-2014, 02:32 AM
#259
Todays task is to finish the right wing, or at least bring it up to speed with the left wing. I will be trying a combination of finishes on this build. Vinyl rivets and glue drops along with fasteners, and after paint vinyl fasteners. I have never done either so this will be a learning proses, one reason for doing this build before I get to finishing my P-47!
So I got a glue drop kit from R/C Scale Products. I got the 1/5th scale rivet templates but they seam big. So I will get some 1/6th templates too. I see different size rivets on the full scale so having both sizes wont hurt.
1/64 chart tape for panel lines, templates, and dropper bottle.
Here is an example of the rivet look I am going for.
I have zero experience with glue drop rivets so my need some advice on them.
TB
So I got a glue drop kit from R/C Scale Products. I got the 1/5th scale rivet templates but they seam big. So I will get some 1/6th templates too. I see different size rivets on the full scale so having both sizes wont hurt.
1/64 chart tape for panel lines, templates, and dropper bottle.
Here is an example of the rivet look I am going for.
I have zero experience with glue drop rivets so my need some advice on them.
TB
07-07-2014, 11:52 AM
#260
Made good progress on the right wing. Aileron hinges are made, hinge blocks are in, CF hinge shields are in, and the flap pocket is being formed with gorilla glue. Break time till that dries then on to the aileron pocket.
TB
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 07-07-2014 at 12:08 PM.
07-08-2014, 03:37 AM
#261
Right Wing
So the right wing is coming along.
On making the aileron hinges I came up with a new trick. It is hard to get them all the same size and shape doing them one by one or in pairs. So I used thin CA and hit all the rough ends with CA and made one block out of all 9 pieces. Then I sanded it and when it was good I trimmed the ends and separated the hinges, came out good and was much faster then doing them in pairs of three like the first ones.
Hinge blocks are in.
Hinge pocket shields are in.
Gorilla glue added to shame the pocket and to strengthen the shields.
I forgot to mask off the area so a little sanding is needed to remove the excess, getting back into the rhythm
TB
On making the aileron hinges I came up with a new trick. It is hard to get them all the same size and shape doing them one by one or in pairs. So I used thin CA and hit all the rough ends with CA and made one block out of all 9 pieces. Then I sanded it and when it was good I trimmed the ends and separated the hinges, came out good and was much faster then doing them in pairs of three like the first ones.
Hinge blocks are in.
Hinge pocket shields are in.
Gorilla glue added to shame the pocket and to strengthen the shields.
I forgot to mask off the area so a little sanding is needed to remove the excess, getting back into the rhythm
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 07-08-2014 at 03:41 AM.
07-09-2014, 02:39 AM
#263
Took me most of the day to get the DLE55 mounted to the Sbach for break in. I also did some long overdue building of transport and building stands from 5/8" birch plywood. Used almost 2/3 of a sheet.
I am planning on flying this morning so not much work going on in the shop.
The aileron pocket came out really nice. I tried wetting the area with water first and it really kicks the gorilla glue off. It works much better doing that.
You can see the flap pocket did nit fill in as well as the aileron, that's cool most of the flap pocket gets sanded and just enough remains to support the shield.
Next I will hinge the aileron and flap.
TB
I am planning on flying this morning so not much work going on in the shop.
The aileron pocket came out really nice. I tried wetting the area with water first and it really kicks the gorilla glue off. It works much better doing that.
You can see the flap pocket did nit fill in as well as the aileron, that's cool most of the flap pocket gets sanded and just enough remains to support the shield.
Next I will hinge the aileron and flap.
TB
07-09-2014, 11:40 AM
#264
Dle55ra
I took the DLE out for a first run. I mounted it to my 100 CC PilotRC Sbach. I have it mounted on a 3/4 ply bulk head that is mounted to where the EME120 standoffs are mounted. Setup was easy, I used the same throttle and choke servos and routed nyrod to them. I stuck a 2.5 weight to the top of the fier box and she is good to go. I am flying with no cowl for good cooling and easy access to the engine.
I primed the engine till I saw fuel to the card, with the choke on it took but 3-4 flips to get the pop, then 3 more flips to start. She ran great right out of the box (DLE's rock). 6400 rpms on a 22x8 Xoar for break in.
The Bowman ring makes a difference!
Takeoff was long and gradual, once up she climbed at a good rate. I flew a 10min flight, landed and gave the engine a go over. All looked good. Fuel consumption was about 10oz on a ten min flight. Moderate throttle use.
Second and third flight was routine, I did bump up to a 15min flight to get more fuel and time on the engine. Fuel consumption on a 15 min average 5000rpm flight was about 18oz. Once the engine is broken in a will do a race track 10min flight at full to determine tank sizing, but it looks like two 14oz tanks will do, I want good reserve.
Restarts where very DLE like, choke with two or three flips and a pop, then two or three flips and a start.
the 55 pulled my 27lb Sbach around pretty good so she should do great on a 24-25 lb mores sleek frame.
Back to building, going to hit it hard tomorrow.
I primed the engine till I saw fuel to the card, with the choke on it took but 3-4 flips to get the pop, then 3 more flips to start. She ran great right out of the box (DLE's rock). 6400 rpms on a 22x8 Xoar for break in.
The Bowman ring makes a difference!
Takeoff was long and gradual, once up she climbed at a good rate. I flew a 10min flight, landed and gave the engine a go over. All looked good. Fuel consumption was about 10oz on a ten min flight. Moderate throttle use.
Second and third flight was routine, I did bump up to a 15min flight to get more fuel and time on the engine. Fuel consumption on a 15 min average 5000rpm flight was about 18oz. Once the engine is broken in a will do a race track 10min flight at full to determine tank sizing, but it looks like two 14oz tanks will do, I want good reserve.
Restarts where very DLE like, choke with two or three flips and a pop, then two or three flips and a start.
the 55 pulled my 27lb Sbach around pretty good so she should do great on a 24-25 lb mores sleek frame.
Back to building, going to hit it hard tomorrow.
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 07-10-2014 at 02:20 AM.
07-09-2014, 01:29 PM
#265
Banned
07-09-2014, 05:26 PM
#266
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Haltom,
TX
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Tony:
Got a question. I just hooked up the mains on my P-47. They both work and cycle well at 100 psi. However when the air pressure get to 80 psi only one main is cycling. I can hear the uplock disengaging on the retract that does not move and you can place your hand under the tire, then it will extend. What do you think?
Thanks
Glenn
Got a question. I just hooked up the mains on my P-47. They both work and cycle well at 100 psi. However when the air pressure get to 80 psi only one main is cycling. I can hear the uplock disengaging on the retract that does not move and you can place your hand under the tire, then it will extend. What do you think?
Thanks
Glenn
07-09-2014, 05:30 PM
#267
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Haltom,
TX
Posts: 1,181
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
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Tony:
Got a question. I just hooked up the mains on my P-47. They both work and cycle well at 100 psi. However when the air pressure get to 80 psi only one main is cycling. I can hear the uplock disengaging on the retract that does not move and you can place your hand under the tire, then it will extend. What do you think?
Thanks
Glenn
Got a question. I just hooked up the mains on my P-47. They both work and cycle well at 100 psi. However when the air pressure get to 80 psi only one main is cycling. I can hear the uplock disengaging on the retract that does not move and you can place your hand under the tire, then it will extend. What do you think?
Thanks
Glenn
07-10-2014, 02:10 AM
#268
Tony:
Got a question. I just hooked up the mains on my P-47. They both work and cycle well at 100 psi. However when the air pressure get to 80 psi only one main is cycling. I can hear the uplock disengaging on the retract that does not move and you can place your hand under the tire, then it will extend. What do you think?
Thanks
Glenn
Got a question. I just hooked up the mains on my P-47. They both work and cycle well at 100 psi. However when the air pressure get to 80 psi only one main is cycling. I can hear the uplock disengaging on the retract that does not move and you can place your hand under the tire, then it will extend. What do you think?
Thanks
Glenn
TB
07-10-2014, 08:54 AM
#271
Right Wing
Getting some progress on the right wing.
I hit the pockets with easy sand to clean them up.
They came out great. I will clean up the ends and the joint between the aileron and the flap once I glue in the hinges on the aileron, the flap doesn't get glued in until after painting.
Hinges are cut in and I am adjusting them as we go forward.
Right now the aileron is getting 20degress of up and 30 degrees of down. The flap is getting 50 degrees. This is the throw before it binds on both. I don't need 50 degrees on the flap.
Next I will install the servos and linkages. Then the right wing will almost be caught up to the left. Still need to fit the hatches.
TB
I hit the pockets with easy sand to clean them up.
They came out great. I will clean up the ends and the joint between the aileron and the flap once I glue in the hinges on the aileron, the flap doesn't get glued in until after painting.
Hinges are cut in and I am adjusting them as we go forward.
Right now the aileron is getting 20degress of up and 30 degrees of down. The flap is getting 50 degrees. This is the throw before it binds on both. I don't need 50 degrees on the flap.
Next I will install the servos and linkages. Then the right wing will almost be caught up to the left. Still need to fit the hatches.
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 07-10-2014 at 08:56 AM.
07-10-2014, 11:29 AM
#273
OKC, yes I did them differently then the jug. I used gorilla glue. First I warped the aileron/flap with wax paper then I applied glue to the pocket, set the hinge blocks in and taped the aileron/ flap into the pocket. The foaming of the gorilla glue forms the pocket, when dried you just sand the excess, then hit it with a thin coat of easy sand and you got nice clean light hinge pockets.
The he easy sand will eat the wing core foam but not the gorilla glue foam so be carful on raw foam.
The the flap pocket will never see the light of day once the flap is glued in but I still like it to be clean.
The aileron pocket will be visible and have rivets, panel lines and access hatches so it gets the works
TB
The he easy sand will eat the wing core foam but not the gorilla glue foam so be carful on raw foam.
The the flap pocket will never see the light of day once the flap is glued in but I still like it to be clean.
The aileron pocket will be visible and have rivets, panel lines and access hatches so it gets the works
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 07-10-2014 at 11:35 AM.
07-10-2014, 02:17 PM
#275
Right Wing progress
I am gluing in the aileron hinges.
First I glue the hinge into the aileron using blocks to get them all at the same plane.
Then after that dries I glue the hinge into the wing. This is different then I normally do. I would glass the aileron then install the hinge but this time I want to get the aileron hinged and working before I glass. This way if I need to sand I can do that. It is impossible to know how the hinge is working without gluing the hinges in.
The Robart hinges are tight with a dry fit so it is easy to see how they work without gluing them in.
Once the flap is glassed I will glue the hinge into it and wait till the finishing to glue the hinge/flap into the wing.
Onward.
TB
I am gluing in the aileron hinges.
First I glue the hinge into the aileron using blocks to get them all at the same plane.
Then after that dries I glue the hinge into the wing. This is different then I normally do. I would glass the aileron then install the hinge but this time I want to get the aileron hinged and working before I glass. This way if I need to sand I can do that. It is impossible to know how the hinge is working without gluing the hinges in.
The Robart hinges are tight with a dry fit so it is easy to see how they work without gluing them in.
Once the flap is glassed I will glue the hinge into it and wait till the finishing to glue the hinge/flap into the wing.
Onward.
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 07-10-2014 at 02:20 PM.