Calrl Goldberg Tiger 60 Build
#208
Thread Starter
Drew the plans up as how I want the horizontal stabilizer to look like. These plans are an identical copy of what my friend Leroy Gardner used on his beautiful Tiger. Note the addition of balance tabs on the end of the elevators. The thickness of the stabilizer is 3/8", so I will have to check my wood stock to see if a trip to a hobby store is in order. Since the stab is modified from the original, I will need additional balsa to complete it.
Last edited by VincentJ; 01-31-2018 at 04:07 PM.
#209
Join Date: Jan 2018
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I do have the kit, and I ordered an OS 65 from the LHS, but it is back ordered. Not sure if should have gotten a 75. Would have liked a four stroke, but I like the tricycle gear and wasn’t sure about prop clearance. You are right, things have changed. Gas engines and electric motors in particular. I should probably have considered those options, but I know nothing about them and decided to start with something familiar. 3D flying is also new to me, and I used to like Super Tigre, but that is gone now.
I probably won’t be able to start building for a few more months when some work projects die down and my kids’ sports leagues end, but I wanted to let you know that all of your craftsmanship and your friendly banter are being appreciated and enjoyed by others.
I probably won’t be able to start building for a few more months when some work projects die down and my kids’ sports leagues end, but I wanted to let you know that all of your craftsmanship and your friendly banter are being appreciated and enjoyed by others.
#210
Vincent, you're doing the same thing with your build as I am with one of my two Kadet Jr builds. I'm building one with a fairly stock set up, other than adding barn door ailerons and dropping the wingtips down to 1/2" of dihedral. The second is being set up with floats. To carry the extra weight, I've extended the wings each one bay(3"), deleted all the dihedral and, like your build, am adding counterbalances on the elevators on a slightly longer horizontal stabilizer. I figure a bit more stability would be a good thing, just haven't decided yet if I want to extend the base of the vertical stabilizer forward further or not
#211
Thread Starter
Roger, my first Tiger (trike set-up) had an OS 75AX in it and though it flew well, but I wanted for more power, so my second Tiger I put an OS 91 Surpass (four stroker) and it flew really well. It had more than enough prop clearance being a tail dragger. So it's not to late to change your mind if you are so inclined. Built stock, either as a trike set-up or tail dragger this is a pretty large plane and I think the 65 may be a bit on the small end. It will fly with the 65, don't get me wrong, but if it were me and you're waiting for the engine anyway, why not go larger and get it sooner?
Don't sweat the changes Roger, I'm sure the members at your club will help and advise you as well as help that you can get from threads. I find that the people in this hobby are always very willing to help out in any way they can...
Hydro, your build(s) sounds interesting would love to see a few pics! Did you go gas?
Don't sweat the changes Roger, I'm sure the members at your club will help and advise you as well as help that you can get from threads. I find that the people in this hobby are always very willing to help out in any way they can...
Hydro, your build(s) sounds interesting would love to see a few pics! Did you go gas?
Last edited by VincentJ; 02-01-2018 at 08:02 AM.
#214
Not yet. I am building a 1:6.7 scale model of the 1978 Miss Madison unlimited hydroplane for a 27cc gas engine and have plans for several 50cc planes. It's more a matter of time to build than anything else that's slowing me down
#216
Thread Starter
I'm not sure where Hebron is Roger, I'll have to check my map. I spent 28 years of my life growing up in Trumbull, Ct. It was a nice small town in the sixty's, sadly it's changed a bunch now...
#217
Thread Starter
Yesterday I bought three 16x8 Beechwood Falcon propellors @ $11.50 each, I wanted to go CF but at $40.00 per prop the decision was pretty easy. Sometimes you have to settle for what you need and not what you want (unless you have deep pockets, mine has holes in them).
Also, I wanted to tell you about something that you may not be aware of that I find very helpful. Years ago I remember needing a spinner for a model that I had built, so I called Tru-Turn and checked out their fine products. Deciding which spinner that would look best on my project proved difficult for me. I mentioned to the person that I was speaking to that it would be very helpful if they could have their spinner profiles printable so one could cut them out and hold them up to the plans to make the decision which profile would look best. Their was a long pause on the phone, and I remember the gentleman that I was speaking to said, wow that's a great idea! I had forgotten about this and yesterday I was again in need of a spinner for my Tiger, so I went on-line and checked out their products, it was then that I noticed at the bottom in very small print "Print spinner outlines", I did and it worked great! It made the decision to find just the right spinner so much easier, sometimes they do listen...
http://www.truturn.com/TruTurn%20Spinners.htm
Also, I wanted to tell you about something that you may not be aware of that I find very helpful. Years ago I remember needing a spinner for a model that I had built, so I called Tru-Turn and checked out their fine products. Deciding which spinner that would look best on my project proved difficult for me. I mentioned to the person that I was speaking to that it would be very helpful if they could have their spinner profiles printable so one could cut them out and hold them up to the plans to make the decision which profile would look best. Their was a long pause on the phone, and I remember the gentleman that I was speaking to said, wow that's a great idea! I had forgotten about this and yesterday I was again in need of a spinner for my Tiger, so I went on-line and checked out their products, it was then that I noticed at the bottom in very small print "Print spinner outlines", I did and it worked great! It made the decision to find just the right spinner so much easier, sometimes they do listen...
http://www.truturn.com/TruTurn%20Spinners.htm
Last edited by VincentJ; 02-02-2018 at 07:09 AM.
#219
OK, lets face it, a spinner is a nice finishing touch on our planes. I found Tower Hobby has the best selection, size and type of spinners to choose from, True Turn,Great Planes, Dave Brown and some other nylon ones with a aluminum back plate. Many of them are going to need some sizing to the prop work on them. Fitting a 18" Zore wood prop on a 2 1/2" spinner is not going to happen without some grinding, same for a lot of the others. True Turn will custom cut a given prop and I think drill back plate to fit most engines, most of us have the drill guides for our engines. Spinners can be balanced on a prop balanc'er after any work on them, I had to re-cut spinners on my last 3 planes, nothing to it just don't allow the spinner to contact the wood prop.
Photo #1 is a fitted 2 1/2" plastic spinner with a 16-8 prop. #2 is the difference between hubs on a 16" and 18" props. #3 is a 2 1/2" spinner fit to a 18" Zore prop.
Photo #1 is a fitted 2 1/2" plastic spinner with a 16-8 prop. #2 is the difference between hubs on a 16" and 18" props. #3 is a 2 1/2" spinner fit to a 18" Zore prop.
#222
Thread Starter
Good tips on those spinners Leroy, you're right about a spinner being the finishing touch on your plane. Selecting the right profile will enhance the overall look for sure...
#223
Thread Starter
Spent the day making the two elevator halves. The stock 3/8" balsa supplied in the kit was not used, instead I substituted them with two 3/16" thick balsa sheets which required me to laminate them together to make one 3/8" thick piece. This was done to ensure that the elevator halves don't warp and for them to have as much strength as possible. Any time you laminate several pieces together vs. using one solid piece of wood you will end up with a much stronger, warp resistant stock. I glued the lamination's together using Finishing Resin by Z-Poxy. http://www.supergluecorp.com/?q=zap/...inishing-resin
This worked so much better than using 30 minute epoxy, as the finishing resin migrated into the pores of the wood more than epoxy would have.
Once cured they were quickly trimmed to shape. The holes for the hinge pins were then drilled and checked for fit. The leading edges of the elevator halves were beveled to give me the deflection that I wanted. Next was the process of joining the two elevator halves together using a short length of 5/16" hardwood dowel. I took the time to carefully shape the leading edge of the elevator to the contour of the dowel to give me a nice tight fit. The joint was fine tuned using a deep socket that I attached a piece of sand paper to. Once satisfied with the fit, I mixed 30 minute epoxy and secured the two halves together. The dowel will later be wrapped with fiberglass cloth to give even more strength to the joint.
This worked so much better than using 30 minute epoxy, as the finishing resin migrated into the pores of the wood more than epoxy would have.
Once cured they were quickly trimmed to shape. The holes for the hinge pins were then drilled and checked for fit. The leading edges of the elevator halves were beveled to give me the deflection that I wanted. Next was the process of joining the two elevator halves together using a short length of 5/16" hardwood dowel. I took the time to carefully shape the leading edge of the elevator to the contour of the dowel to give me a nice tight fit. The joint was fine tuned using a deep socket that I attached a piece of sand paper to. Once satisfied with the fit, I mixed 30 minute epoxy and secured the two halves together. The dowel will later be wrapped with fiberglass cloth to give even more strength to the joint.
Last edited by VincentJ; 02-04-2018 at 11:39 AM.
#224
Nice work on the elevator Vince, I pinned the joiner dowel with 1/8" oak dowels just to be on the safe side and hardened up the location of control horn with thin CA after adding the pin holes both sides. I suspect you'll drill the dickens out of it to lighten it up, fin and rudder also. Here's what I did to mine. KEEP IT LIGHT.
Leroy
Leroy
#225
Thread Starter
Good idea on pinning the dowel, I just may add a few toothpicks for good measure... I do plan on drilling everything to rid the Tiger from unnecessary weight, once the initial build is done. Once I locate the control horn points, I will add a hard point (hardwood dowel) to that location as well. I think I am going to add a balance tab to the rudder. Weren't you going to do that Leroy?
Last edited by VincentJ; 02-04-2018 at 01:36 PM.