OK Guys-- I did a search on this subject and didn't find much so I want to put it out there....

I am considering building a Midwest Super Stinker and would like feedback from anyone that has actually built one.
I have just finished a Midwest Extra XS and really liked the kit--good wood + good plans/instructions

How does it fly? It's fuse length looks long enough to handle well on the ground, but I need your feedback!

I know it's not a Ultimate, but I like to build kits and it 'looks' like a good flyer----will probably power w/Moki 1.80

Thanks ahead of time for your replies--I'm counting on your council!!!

The SS was one of my most favorite planes....and I had a Moki 1.8 on mine too. It is a lot of building for some reason - maybe two wings has something to do with it , but it didn't finish as fast an either the MW Citabria or other kits I've built.

If doing over again I'd strengthen the stringers along the bottom of the fuse - replace with spruce? And I'd go again with Stan's Fiberglass cowl and wheel pants. I made a 'door' in the side of the fuse for the fuel dot - by boxing in one of those punched out sections of lite ply (near the front of the plane).

Flew great and wasn't squirrely on the ground at all (used Sullivan tail wheel). GREAT FLYING BIRD - keep her as light as you can and that Moki will make it into a rocket!!!!

Jerry

Thanks Jerry-- I want to pick your brain just a little more--You mention the bottom fuse stringers--did they bow on you or are you referring to it just being a soft spot for hanger rash? I do the same thing for my fuel dots and would agree that Stan is the man as far as cowls and wheelpants go. Do you recall how the plane balanced with the Moki? How about setting wing incidence?? Also do you recall if there were any areas you would beef up?? Perhaps some carbon fiber tape or gusseting?? Thank you so much for your input,I really do value it---Isn't it great we have this forum??? Tks Bob

Bob Said: Thanks Jerry-- I want to pick your brain just a little more--You mention the bottom fuse stringers--did they bow on you or are you referring to it just being a soft spot for hanger rash?

Yep, picking up this bird with the wings on requires one hand UNDER the fuse :-)

Do you recall how the plane balanced with the Moki?

I had the battery right behind the firewall if I remember correctly.

How about setting wing incidence??

No problems at all....I did mount the wings with the Laser Incidence Meter from Hobbico and it was 'right on'. One thing I did with the upper wing was to mount the lower wing and then only drill and mount the rear bolt on the top wing.

Then measure, tweek, measure, bump, measure the top/bottom relationship as viewed from the top, BEFORE drilling the forward hole. Mine came w/i 1/16" of being perfect

Also do you recall if there were any areas you would beef up??

Never tore up the landing gear! And I flew off grass mostly and the wheel pants stayed ON all the time!

Perhaps some carbon fiber tape or gusseting?? Thank you so much for your input,I really do value it---Isn't it great we have this forum??? Tks Bob

No problem....and yes, I've learned SO MUCH from this whole Internet thing...especially RC Universe!!!!

Jerry

Jerry-- Thanks again I can't wait for Brown to show up!!!!! I'm the only huckleberry logged in for minute by minute tracking on a Sunday night !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Bob

I am currently working on a Midwest Super Stinker. SO far it is going very well, despite the long building time. The only things I changed were mounting the engine (Saito 180) inverted to improve side profile looks, removable tailwheel in case of damage, and an extra layer of 1/8" balsa on the outside of the wing struts to improve the looks of them. Here is a picture of it so far...

Daywalker --I like your suggestion about the struts....I recently finished a Midwest 300XS and was very impressed with the way it built....I just have most of the fuse done on the Super Stinker...I took tailskids advice and put spruce stringers on the bottom of the fuse...Where that 1/32 plywood forms the turtledeck I like to run a 1/4 sq balsa on top of each of the fuse sides and cut the ply a little short...then fill any gap with filler...that way you get nice flush sides without the overhang...Were you pleased with your wing alignment as built/designed or did you have to do alot of dinking to get it right??? The only other biplane I've done was a Pica 1/5th Waco and the wing alignment just about had me crying!!!!!!!!!! Thanks Bob

rflasch, I mounted the bottom wing and true'ed it up. Then put in only one bolt in the top wing and did tons of measurements. Only after it was 100% 'on', was the second bolt hole drilled and tapped.

Jerry

Dave,

Though a biplane can be a real pain to get aligned, if you have 3 or more really good alignment tools, either Robart or the laser type, life becomes a lot simpler and faster. Setting a good reference line on the wings and fuse will also assist in the measuring/alignment.

For some really good tips on setting up a bipe, including the Super Stinker in numerous illustrations, pick up a copy of Harry Higleys book called "Bipes". I bought a copy a long, long time ago and still refer to it from time to time. The methods are tried and true. It was, and still is, worth the cost.

Build it as light as you can. I traded a plane for one built, but it was heavy. It had the Moki 180. Ended up trading it again before I flew it and the guy that got it loved it and said it would do anything, but I bet it would be even better if it were lighter. Keep as much weight off it as you can.