Hi, this is my first kit build and I am going to build a Guillow's Piper Super Cub 95. I was wondering about kind of things I should get for the build. I will be building on a cork bulletin board so I can pin things down. In my industrial arts class, we built bridges out of this balsa stuff and we used wood glue, can I use that or will that end up being too heavy? If I can't use that, what kind of glue or CA should I get? Let me add that they say to use wood cement to bond the balsa together.

Another question I had was about how to mount all this tissue paper. They talk about dope, and colored dope and I have no idea what this is. Can someone please inform me? They also say dont use clear dope over the decals because it will ruin them.

Last question, can I just use a GWS Speed 300 motor like the one on my slowstick? They recommend a 6 watt motor (whatever that is...) or a .020 Cox engine. This plane is made for remote control and can use gas or electric motors. Then I can just get the pico flight pack because that is really light.

OK this is the last question, hahaha, the kit came with a prop that might be 5"x3". Thats what they say to use to get the most scale look. With the 300 motor, I will have to use the 11x# that comes with it correct?

Thanks for the help, sorry I had to make this so long.

Yes, you can use wood glue, just don't over do it. I use CA glue alot, as it is much faster. A good CA brand is Hand-Bond, I use it alot.

A good dope for sealing the balsa is Nitrate Dope. The Sig company sells it, and it works very well. Use Butyrate Dope to tack down, seal and tighten the tissue.

Afraid I don't fly elctrics, so I don't know much there.


Patriot

ok thanks, I can't wait to get this thing started!

Check out this link:

http://www.mindspring.com/~thayer5/f...c/macinfo.html

Talk about everything under the sun! The home page to this one is chock full of things that will make your build easier. BTW, one of the best glues for stick-and-tissue models is Titebond II diluted about 30-50% with water. CA is a problem because it is hard to get it to stay put, and because none of it evaporates, it is heavy. On small rubber, electric, and CO2 powered models, even the drops of glue cost you weight and performance. And on the Guillow kit, eliminate any parts that you can and replace the heaviest wood. (Overall, Herr, Peck Polymers, and Micro-X make better stick model kits.)

You can use nitrate dope for the entire thing, unless it needs to be fuelproof. Nitrate isn't. An airbrush is a good thing to have here, too.

I would just like to point out one thing...

Guillows kits are a BITC# to build.

They are reminiscient of the way kits were designed in the 40's and 50's (and many of the guillows kits were, and have never been updated)

Unless you aware of what you are getting into, I would suggest returning it, and getting something by another manufacturer, like Great Planes, Goldberg, Sig, etc. It will save you a LOT of work, and a LOT of headaches.

On the other hand, if you can do a good job of building it, you will be able to build almost ANYTHING afterward.

Well after spending about 12 hours on this kit i am ready to cover this thing with the tissue paper now. It wasn't too hard, but the cutting job they did on some of the smaller more intricate pieces wasnt good. I had to cut those out with the knife.

Here are a few pictures of where im at right now, and a picture of the custom hinge I had to make for the elevator and rudder. This thing wasnt made to have movable tail surfaces, but this solved the problem.

I'll put up more pictures when I get farther along in building it. Thanks for the help.

Couple of things for you-here's a great link to a complete how-to on covering with tissue:

http://www.aalmps.com/covering.htm

Just noticed your question about prop size-yes, you'll end up running a prop that is larger than scale. Just goes with the territory. An effect of shrinking the size of the plane without shrinking the size of the air molecules it flies through.

The build is looking pretty good. Just wondering how you're gonna get the horizontal stab un-glued from the plans.

And here's a photo of a lighter way to make tail surfaces. It is thin strips of balsa soaked in warm water and wrapped around a cardboard or foamboard pattern and glued with a bit of
Titebond. Way stronger and vastly lighter than the Guillow's way with the huge flat pieces.

Kelvin

Yeah, my parts got stuck on the paper, and stupidly, I noticed that it said use wax paper over the plans to keep from sticking after I glued it. Oh well, I took pictures of the plan areas that were going to get ripped up before I took them up, so it was ok. I've got my first layer of paper on the wings and tail surfaces and it is going good so far. Now that the wood is covered up, can I just apply a thin coat of the stuff im using on the tissue paper itself?

By the way, in the instructions, they said that 70% elmers glue 30% water mixture works as a sealer and adhesive, and thats what i've been using. Thanks.

I'll put up some pictures later.

Visit your local hobby shop (LHS) and ask if there are any clubs that you can join
I'm quite sure there are any number of people in the club that will help you to be the kind of modeller you want to be. Get visual help and advice from a club member in your area.
Ed
AMA17555

I havn't done much work on this in a few weeks. Too much school work, and just being lazy. Here are some pictures of where I'm at right now. I found some yellow tissue paper, so I'm gonna use that when I feel like getting back to work on it. Thanks for all the info!