Solder Question
02-21-2004 | 12:20 AM
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From: Bettendorf, IA
Solder Question
I am building a GP Skybolt and I'm to the point where I need to solder the cabanes together. The question is this; the kit contains I think four short lengths of "silver wire" to wrap joints that require soldering. The problem is that none of them seem long enough for the job, so I used 2 lengths on the first joint thinking it would be easy to find more "silver wire". I can't find any "silver wire" but have found same guage galvanized steel wire, will this take and hold the acid core solder like the stuff in the kit? I would really hate for this joint to fail as it holds the top wing on...kinda crucial! Thanks sorry this is so long. Steve
02-21-2004 | 12:58 AM
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From: Grants Pass, OR
RE: Solder Question
Most likely the "silver wire" you have is "tinned" copper wire. You should be able to find some solid copper wire and use it for the rest of your joints. You might even be able to get some tinned copper wire. It will get "tinned when you solder everything together. The galvanized wire will not work to well. The main purpose of the wire wrapping is to hold everything together and to form a matrix to hold more of the solder in and around the joint, while you are soldering it together.
02-21-2004 | 01:06 AM
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From: Bettendorf, IA
RE: Solder Question
Thanks for you're reply. I did find some copper wire but thought it was to thin. It does seem to be the same in terms of softness for lack of anything better to call it, the galvanized wire is much stiffer. I was afraid I might melt the copper wire though.
02-21-2004 | 09:54 AM
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RE: Solder Question
You shouldn't use anywhere near enough heat to melt the copper wire. If you use that much heat you'll take the temper out of the wire. Soft cabanes don't sound like much fun to me. 
Look at Minn Flyer's tip especially "Big Jobs" at the bottom of the article.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=172
John
Look at Minn Flyer's tip especially "Big Jobs" at the bottom of the article.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=172
John
02-21-2004 | 10:45 AM
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From: Fresno, CA
RE: Solder Question
ORIGINAL: thomp896
I am building a GP Skybolt and I'm to the point where I need to solder the cabanes together. The question is this; the kit contains I think four short lengths of "silver wire" to wrap joints that require soldering. The problem is that none of them seem long enough for the job, so I used 2 lengths on the first joint thinking it would be easy to find more "silver wire". I can't find any "silver wire" but have found same guage galvanized steel wire, will this take and hold the acid core solder like the stuff in the kit? I would really hate for this joint to fail as it holds the top wing on...kinda crucial! Thanks sorry this is so long. Steve
I am building a GP Skybolt and I'm to the point where I need to solder the cabanes together. The question is this; the kit contains I think four short lengths of "silver wire" to wrap joints that require soldering. The problem is that none of them seem long enough for the job, so I used 2 lengths on the first joint thinking it would be easy to find more "silver wire". I can't find any "silver wire" but have found same guage galvanized steel wire, will this take and hold the acid core solder like the stuff in the kit? I would really hate for this joint to fail as it holds the top wing on...kinda crucial! Thanks sorry this is so long. Steve
]HTH
Jim
02-21-2004 | 01:14 PM
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From: Waynetown,
IN
RE: Solder Question
YES IT CAN.....take it from a long time welder...THE GALVANIZED COATING WILL MESS YOU UP....I have had severe flu like symptoms in the past form welding galvanized metals......USE COPPER for your application...If you only have access to a really thin guage and you do not feel comfortable with it, wrap it twice.
02-21-2004 | 01:43 PM
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From: Port Orchard,
WA
RE: Solder Question
I used some steel wire for my cabanes on my Citabria Pro. I wrapped it very tightly first, then saturated with flux, and soldered it together. No flu like symptoms yet. I figure it was such a small solder point that as long as I don't breath in the smoke and stay far enough back, no problem.
Anyway, the joint is extremly strong, seems to have worked very well for me. The steel wire was the stuff left over from when I set up an electric fence around my yard to keep my dog from jumping the 5 ft. fence. As soon as he put his bigfoot paws up there, POW!!!.
Patriot
Anyway, the joint is extremly strong, seems to have worked very well for me. The steel wire was the stuff left over from when I set up an electric fence around my yard to keep my dog from jumping the 5 ft. fence. As soon as he put his bigfoot paws up there, POW!!!.
Patriot
02-22-2004 | 06:10 PM
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From: Knoxville, TN
RE: Solder Question
I have a goof proof way to do struts, landing gears etc.
It's called a solder pot....
Metal tube about 3" in diameter three inches deep with melted bar solder in it..
Clean the strut, clean the wire, flux well, heat up pot of solder, with stove, propane torch or what ever will get to a high enough temp.
Dip end of strut in the pot...leave for a minute and pull out..with a old rag quickely wipe off the solder that you don't need...
No need to worry about over heating the wire or getting the solder to flow into entire joint..or having it run out the other side from pushing in too much solder..
BB1
It's called a solder pot....
Metal tube about 3" in diameter three inches deep with melted bar solder in it..
Clean the strut, clean the wire, flux well, heat up pot of solder, with stove, propane torch or what ever will get to a high enough temp.
Dip end of strut in the pot...leave for a minute and pull out..with a old rag quickely wipe off the solder that you don't need...
No need to worry about over heating the wire or getting the solder to flow into entire joint..or having it run out the other side from pushing in too much solder..
BB1
