I'm starting a Goldberg Ultimate Bipe .60 and wonder if there's a better way to do the split elevator pushrod than the plan-suggested balsa stick and wire.

I just finished mine and the balsa and wire combo seemed to work fine. I did put a small amount of fiberglass on it to be sure the wire would not seperate from the balsa.

How about 2 elevator servo's and push rods. I would try Sullivan semiflexible snakes. I wish you well with this fine kit.

Mark Shuman

I started out with the stock set up but ended up with 2 servos and ni-rods. I supported them all the way through the fuse with small pieces so there is no flex. Yo can see a couple of them in this photo. The upper most tube in the photo is where the antenna runs. It isn't supported as no need. Just make sure there is no flex in the nylon rods. That big mess of foam, connectors and tubing nearer the front is the smoke system. Pump, battery and tank all on one removable tray
Seems to work great but waiting on Summer to find out.

What kind of engine do you use? I use an OS fs 120. I would move the elevator servos to the tail. The plane is too nose heavy with an engine in the upper scale. I`m flying one now with the original set up. I have moved the battery behind the cockpit and it is still a little nose heavy. I am also building another one. On this one I have placed the two elevator servos in the tail.

you could try the bellcrank from central hobbies or pull-pull. The pull-pull is very light and no slop. I have it on the DPUltimate and I had the CG Ultimate but found it was hard for me to get the elevators right in big loops

I am also using an OS 120 in mine. The servos are a little bit back from the plans but Iput the battery in the extreme rear of the plane below th stab and it balanced perfect without any extra weight.
10lbs 2oz without the smoke. 11lbs with.

I use a single servo with dual Sullivan Gold-N-Rods. The joiner consists of a small steel landing gear strap with a third hole drilled in the center. The center hole is fastened to a ball joint and to the servo while the two rods are fastened to the outer holes. It makes a very clean slop-free system. Iv'e used it on three different airplanes with great success.

I also use a 120 with the battery in the tail. C.G. is just aft of the aft cabane.

I use two pieces of 1/4 sq. basswood, and join them just behind the servo, add wire and wrap in the usual manner. Lay them out over the top view of the plans, and at an angle that leads them straight towards the control horns on the elevators. Add threaded wire at the rear ends, starting just before they exit the fuselage. Use a good servo, one is enough. With a wood fuselage and wood pushrods, you will not have a change in trim due to changes in temperatures.

Clair

I spent a little extra money and ordered the MKD lg bellcrank from Central Hobbies and operate both elevator panels from one HiTec Digital. This setup works perfect and has absoluteley no slop. For the pushrods, I built mine from 1/8" carbon fiber rods with 4-40 titanium rod ends. Overkill? Maybe but it sure works great. This a wonderful model to fly. I power mine with an OS 1.08 with a slimline muffler. All up wt is 8.5 pounds.

Dave Brown carbon rods beefed up to 4/40 threaded wire connections. Gentle sweeping curves in the rods and no problems for three years now. PS 120 oz digital servo helps.

Wow, guys, I'm a little overwhelmed with the great responses. Sounds like there are definitely some creative options out there. To save cash, I'm going to go ahead and do the recommended setup unless someone out there has tried it and really had major problems with it. I like the idea of it not expanding or contracting with the weather. I am, by the way, planning on using a 1.20 powerplant. I've included a couple pics of my design for the trim scheme for you to peek at. Ya gotta love Photoshop! Thanks again for all the helpful responses!

I am building this kit right now, and the Harry Higley Bipes book hes helped me alot on it. The is an illustration in it that shows you how to link the 2 pushrods as one using solder connectors and a ball link to one arm on the servo. I plan to use that one and pull/pull on the rudder.

ilikeplanes,

Do you have a picture of this set up?

I used a Dave Brown Fiberglass push rod with the"Double" end in it. I also drilled the holes out a little and used 4-40 rods instead of the 2-56. You could also use a couple of HS 225s in the rear since you are going with a 120 on it. You will need the tail weight.

Cool color scheme FLYINMIKE