Easy building , Nice flying scale kit
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Looking for next fall/winter project..
I would like a nice easy building kit, something from ww2 era that flies nicely also.. Doesn't have to be giant scale. (60 size will do).
Any suggestions ?
I would like a nice easy building kit, something from ww2 era that flies nicely also.. Doesn't have to be giant scale. (60 size will do).
Any suggestions ?
#2
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Lancaster, TX
The TF Gold Edition P-47 would be the perfect candidate for you. It's lightweight and builds easily. It flys great on any sport .60 engine, and looks as good as it flys.
I have flown one in many air shows and always considered it THE OLD RELIABLE. Good luck in your search.
Larry
I have flown one in many air shows and always considered it THE OLD RELIABLE. Good luck in your search.
Larry
#4

My Feedback: (18)
Well -- if it can be giant scale then check out http://nwhobbytech.com. They have easy to build WWII warbirds that are awesome fliers because they are light for their size.
Cheers!
Galen
Cheers!
Galen
#5

My Feedback: (310)
I agree T/F Gold Edition P-47 is a great plane.
Although a little smaller in size I would argue the Jemco (Marks Models) P-47 razorback builds easier and is a better flyer when built light. In addition the kit has more ABS parts for that detailed scale look. While a little hard to find, they are well worth it and priced about the same.
Bill
Although a little smaller in size I would argue the Jemco (Marks Models) P-47 razorback builds easier and is a better flyer when built light. In addition the kit has more ABS parts for that detailed scale look. While a little hard to find, they are well worth it and priced about the same.
Bill
#6
Senior Member
My Feedback: (5)
I agree with Bill on the Jemco kits. Have done a few and have 3 waiting in the wings. They build very nice and fly even better, just sad they quit making them. You can find them once in awhile, but you pay top buck for a NIB kit. If you don't want to find one then by all means go with the Gold Edition, or even a heritage kit.
#7
Senior Member
My Feedback: (32)
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,587
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Pasadena, MD
My vote is for the TF P-47. Of course, I am biased
. It is one of the easiest building kits I have built and it flies more like a pattern ship than a war bird. I was able to place third in a local scale contest a couple of weekends ago with the wind blowing at around 20 mph and I was the smallest plane competing. My is glassed, covered with Flite Metal covering with an OS 120 Surpass III. It flies scale at a third throttle. At full throttle it is a rocket.
. It is one of the easiest building kits I have built and it flies more like a pattern ship than a war bird. I was able to place third in a local scale contest a couple of weekends ago with the wind blowing at around 20 mph and I was the smallest plane competing. My is glassed, covered with Flite Metal covering with an OS 120 Surpass III. It flies scale at a third throttle. At full throttle it is a rocket.
#8
Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Southeast Wisconsin
How do you like the Flite Metal? I am considering doing the Top Flite T-6 with it and would just like some info from someone who has used it.
#9
Senior Member
My Feedback: (32)
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,587
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Pasadena, MD
fr8dog:
I like the Flite Metal. I am currently working on a larger P-47 that will be partially covered with it. Like any new method, it does take a bit of getting used to. You really need to do a good job during the prep stage. Like paint, it will show any imperfections in the finish. After glassing the structures, I used filler primer and automotive glazing putty to smooth the surface. You can sand most of the primer and glazing putty off, leaving behind only what is needed to obtain a smooth surface. If you were painting you would need to apply another coat of primer for the paint to stick but with Flite Metal you can skip this step. The adhesive is pretty strong but I would suggest sealing the edges of the panels around the cowl and engine compartment with thin CA to keep any fuel from finding its way under the panel. It is fuel proof. I sprayed Lusterkote flat clear over mine but only because I used Testor's model master paints. It does not scratch as easily it you would think. If you have any more questions or would like to know more details about applying Flite Metal email me ([email protected] ) and I will be happy to pass on things I learned.
I like the Flite Metal. I am currently working on a larger P-47 that will be partially covered with it. Like any new method, it does take a bit of getting used to. You really need to do a good job during the prep stage. Like paint, it will show any imperfections in the finish. After glassing the structures, I used filler primer and automotive glazing putty to smooth the surface. You can sand most of the primer and glazing putty off, leaving behind only what is needed to obtain a smooth surface. If you were painting you would need to apply another coat of primer for the paint to stick but with Flite Metal you can skip this step. The adhesive is pretty strong but I would suggest sealing the edges of the panels around the cowl and engine compartment with thin CA to keep any fuel from finding its way under the panel. It is fuel proof. I sprayed Lusterkote flat clear over mine but only because I used Testor's model master paints. It does not scratch as easily it you would think. If you have any more questions or would like to know more details about applying Flite Metal email me ([email protected] ) and I will be happy to pass on things I learned.




