I'm thinking about building a Sig Somethin' Extra. Is it a hard plane to build or a slow one? I haven't built a kit in a few years and i've built a few ARF's since then. I've built a Goldberg Eagle 2, Protege, and Great Planes 40 size Cub. I have pictures of the Cub available:

Any pictures or comments are welcome.

I just built one. It was my first and I was surprised at how easy it was to build. It was like putting a jigsaw puzzle together with CA.

Very easy to build and goes really fast (the build I mean). The only thing you should be careful with is how you hold the two wing halves together, the kit uses rubber bands, but I had a problem with mine so I installed a Dubro turnbuckle with a small ring on each end to go on the J hooks.
good luck with your SSE I had a ball with mine.

I think I took longer to cover mine than I did to build it. I concur with Irish on the wing hold-on system. The rubber bands can be very frustrating at the flying field, especially if you have fat fingers. Flies very fast if you want it to, will also land like you're on a carrier deck if you want. Lots of fun pointing it into the wind at a safe altitude and trying to hold it in one spot like a kite, or flying backwards. I used flaperons on mine, nice programming feature for such a simple plane.

I opened the box, tipped it over and the plane assembled itself. It is a very easy plane to build and fun to fly. I built it in a night and spent 2 covering it. Very nice plane.

I am just finishing the covering on mine and it also is my first. Like everyone said, it is an easy/fast build. Mine took a long time not because it was hard, but because I had other building that I did during its construction. One thing that I would recommend checking is how pliable are the two balsa pieces that make up the Canopy hatch cover. I had to replace them because they just wouldn't bend even with water/ammonia. Other than that I am looking forward to flying mine. Should be done late this week or early next.

Is there an alternative to the J hook system using wing bolts or regular bolts and blind nuts?

I know someone who went to a Auto Parts store and bought the right sized "O" rings. And others have used shortened springs. I haven't made my decision yet, but will opt for one of these since my wings are already built and covered.

I'm using zip ties to hold the wings together. They are easy to loop over the hooks and will not come loose in flight.

John

I used a big spring from a typewriter.

with a few mods, the kit is the bomb. Go with the better tailwheel mount the base on the fuse, Springs work great on the J hooks, home depot has plenty, cut to the size you want and tension you want. Some enlarge the Rudder by adding an inch to the front or top or both, great later for better knife edges, you can use the space under the gas tank for the battery if you need for balance, the Arf needs this with a .46, but the kit probably wont. The plans suggest covering the tail after gluing it on, Will probably be much easier to cover , then cut away the film and glue, just like the ARF comes. The Gold-n-Rods cables are much nicer and less binding than stock ones, OH I also beveled the trailing edge of the wings and Horizontal & Vertical Stab, not just rounded it like the plans, this gives much better travel and looks nice! Little inexpesive things easy to add while building, GOOD LUCK

It's an easy build and flies great on a ball bearing .46. Two suggestions- 1-do install the tail wire supports, they dont weigh much and if you plan on putting this plane through violent maneuvers like I do, they are a must 2-the fuel tank is very hard to install/remove/maintain once the fuselage is built, a hatch on the top or bottom of the fuel tank compartment makes things go a lot smoother. custom making this piece now will save you time later, trust me.
hope this helps
PS-Ive been flying mine for quite some time with a rubber band and zip tie back-up on the wings,no problems to date, probably due to the lack of lateral force on the wing halves during flight

On mine, I had the same problem with the tank. When you pull it out from the compartment through the servo bay area, the tank hits the wing tube and can't be removed. I took a dremel tool and carved out the arc of the shelf where the tank sits so that the front of the tank will drop down 'before' the rear of the tank hits the wing tube. Then I took duct tape and put a strap handle on the rear top and rear bottom so that I had something to grip when removing the tank. I avoided having to cut in a hatch by doing this.

This plane is one of my all time favorites. I've built 3 of em, 2 for me and one for a friend. as stated above there are a few things to know before you build.

wing J hooks, I put nuts on the back of the J hook to give it more strength. Then I use zip ties to hold the wings together.

Ignore the instruction to glue the wing tube in. Just slip it in when you assemble the wings to the plane. Why?? as stated above, you can't get the fuel tank out if you glue this tube in.

and the most important thing, prepare to have a blast flying it. I had 135 flights on my first SE before I dumb thumbed it and re-kitted the plane. Read to trim flight my second one this weekend. This plane is a blast to build, and even more fun to fly.

have a great time

My next question is, what is a good engine to put in it? I was thinking about a Tower .46 or maybe a Saito 72. The main reason for the Tower is i've heard it's a good engine, plus I'm planning on doing a white and metallic plum scheme with aluminum and the two would be a perfect match (not to sound girly). Another possibility is anything from OS. The two main brands I stick to are OS (including their tangent companies like Tower) and Saito. The Cub I built above has a Saito 56 in it.

Sorry, forgot to put the engine on my post. I use an OS .46 FX. this is a great motor for this plane. you definately can't go wrong with putting this motor on it.


hope this helps

Mine has an OS46FX on it and it is a great engine for this plane. It keeps it light and has enough power to hover if need be. Mine will pull out of a hover with 15 percent nitro and an APC 12x4 prop. A couple of guys at my club have put four stroke 70s on theirs and have commented on how well mine flys on the 46. In my opinion, the 70 FS is too much engine. Also, the landing gear has to be modified to increase the ground clearance up front when swinging a 13 or 14 inch prop. Go with the 46. Hope this helps.

I have 2, both with Saito 72s. A perfect combination.

One flying tip.... put the ailerons on low rates (40% is probably enough) on youir first few flights, or you might find it screwing into the ground!

-David C.

Mine will also have the OS46FX, that is what most of the club members that I know in our club use. It handles the plane very well. I am in the last stages of covering mine (fuselage) and used Ultracote: Base: Pearl White, Second level: Pearl Green, striping with Pearl Black, and on the bottom front of the wings and horizontal stab I put on clear and Black checkerboard trim. I would have it done by know, but dummy me, cut too much off of my pearl white and it is too short to cover the fuse side without a seam somewhere. My goal is to have no seams except along the top where the canopy hatch , the tank cover and turtle deck is covered. Am awaiting a roll from my LHS that is on order. (Will post pics when finished.

Hey guys I'm just about finished building one but I dont have a manual. What are the recommended control throws?

Jay

elevator- low rate- 1 1/4" up 1 1/4" down - high rate- 2" up 2" down
ailerons- low rate- 1" up 1" down - high rate- 2" up 2" down
rudder- low rate- 1 7/8" left 1 7/8" right- high rate- 2 1/4" left 2 1/4" right

What new tail wheel bracket should be put in it, a Du-Bro?

Any one where the load from a rough landing is taken by the bracket itself, and not the rudder.

-David C.

My favorite tail wheel is the Sullivan. They come in different sizes. I think I have the smallest one on my SE.

I am using the Sullivan as well. I added an extra ply insert in the tail so I would have a stronger support.