Thought you might want to see a finished product that I just completed. It has most of the modifications that you guys are discussing plus a few more. Its on a four start 60 which is exactly the same build except larger. I took the original canopy and cut it in half and turned it 180. I think the stock one is to big. I also cut off the cheeks up front and did a major revamp including encloing the engine. The plane is covered with Koverall and painted. Its hard to tell its a Four Star. What do you think?

NICE! And very clean lines; you did a beautiful job on it. Looks fantastic. Did you cut a balsa cowl?

Well I installed the servo tray and control rods for the rear surfaces. I also mounted a receiver ON/OFF switch and charging jack. Sanded all the control surfaces and getting ready to cover. I ran the servo wires to the 4th bay of each wing. I forgot to pre-drill so it was a pain. Sodered the tail wheel tire on the Sullivan mount and put in a temporairly mount.

I still have to pick up some 1/8" ply for my servor trays in the wings.

are you making a hatch for the fuel tank area?
i don't glue the bottom ply of the front fules.
i add mounting tabs and screw that piece on.
incase i have problems with the tank, linkage, or i need to
retighten the nuts on the bottom of the engine mount.
readjust the thrust angle and ect...

i add tri to the tail feather and fules to give it more bite.

i also modify the TE of the vertical stab.
like i said ..i modified the TE of the vertical stab so
i don't loose it, incase of a nose over.

you might also want to add piece of wood to the
rear upper deck where the canopy is. the rerar of the canopy cuts
the covering.

drill tooth pitchs into the hinges before you cover..it'll prevent
lost of control surfaces and look nicer.

seal gaps between TE and control surfaces. your plane will
fly better .
don't forget to balance the wing.

Thanks Leftnut.

I did not make a fuel tank hatch. I can still bring the tank out through the back. I am debating weather to modify the tank area in an attempt to slip in a Sullivan 10 oz tank.

Have not yet stared covering. I picked up some 1/8" ply and made my wing servo hatch panels tonite. I also made the brackets in the wings to secure the access panels to. Also did some more epoxy glueing around places I figured needed reinforcement.

That's really starting to shape up Swagger! Nice job.

Thanks Minn. I get alot of grat ideas from RCU. I also noticed Minn, that you are always positively helpful to the newbies, so thanks for that too!

Rajul has always been friendly to me also and always intrested in my post. Makes me look forward to reading the forum.

The wings servo bays and hatches are almost done. I did a trial fit and it looks great!

BTW Mobi. That is a beautiful 4 Star! Nicely done!!

I am going to modify the canopy also. Did you just cut it right down the middle? Looks great!

Im coming up with my color scheme now. I am lollygagging in that area due to covering is not my favorite part!

i use a 10 oz ..so a hatch was easier for me.

my buddie made a handle for the tank when wraping the tank.
this way he could use an allen wrench or something to hook
the handle and pull the tank out.

you can use nylon bolts to secure the landing gear.
this way the bolts breaks during a hard landing instead
of ripping the fuselage. only draw back is.. the nylon
breaks often.

can't remember if the kit comes with nylon bolts for the wing.
i use nylon to secure all my wings, now.lol
using metal bolts the wing mount or fuselage gets ripped on nose first crashes. if that dosen't happen... the wing gets damage.
like Rajul said.. reinforce behind the wing's TE on the fuselage.
i add another layer on the doubler and tri stock the entire
area. i also add berch sticks on each side of fuselage of the top deck,
from the front of cockpit to the 4th or 5 th former. my canopy is painted
to hide this . The sticks also gives me a place to mount the canopy using
screws. none of my 4 stars that i've built have yet to be tail heavy.

the hatch allow ez access if i need to move the battery pack
more foreward into the tank area .

Swager,
I just found your thread today after searching all of the four star threads for the past week! Sometimes RCU amazes me with their search engine.

Anyway, I just completed my wings last night and I'm about to start the fuse tonight. Is that about a one evening job? It looks like it.

I had all kinds of trouble getting my wings to mate right. I don't really know why, I used the dihedral guage that came with the kit but they just didn't want to go together. I finally got it to go with a good bit of sanding. Seems fairly solid.

Did you use the nylon fabric that came in the kit for the wing seam? Mine seems pretty narrow.

I'm going with a single aileron servo with nyrods and flaps. Not because this plane needs flaps but because flaps are COOL.

Both of my other planes have dual aileron servos and it is pretty awesome. Lots of differential control, plus you can have flaperons and spoilerons.

Nice looking bird, keep us posted.

I'm just curious Cobra78. The 4 Star 40 already has aileron differential built in for the existing single servo controlled full span aileron setup. Not denying that aileron differential experimentation and adjustment is easier with a two servos and a computer radio, nor wishing to debate the pros and cons of using an individual servo for each aileron. But in what respect and with particular regard to the 4 Star 40 are you suggesting it performs "better" by increasing/decreasing aileron differential?

Sigron,
by
I ment the two servos perform better than 1 servo not changing aileron differential. Yes the 4* has aileron differential with single servo as the torque rods are angled. But for the performance I really don't think it will matter in a 4* or I could really tell the difference either; let me correct my statement, setting up 2 aileron is easier.

For adjusting the aileron differential not that I am going to attend IMAC or pattern contest with 4* but I lke to experiment move CG change thrust angle adjust play with it. I am a condisrably new flier was messing with one of those trim charts and working on the ailron differential when I wrote that reply.

Copy that Cobra78. Ta.

Not sure if you are intimating this in your response, but without intending any criticism to clarify for the purpose of your & perhaps other's understanding, adjusting aileron differential won't alter either thrust angle or CofG. Aileron differential is implemented to minimise adverse yaw. That's its sole purpose.

On simplicity which is arguably the Four Star's raison d'etre. Apart from being provided with pre-bent aileron torque rods and an aileron alignment 'tool' in the kit, I can't think of anything simpler than using a single servo and having only to (mechanically) adjust the length of the actuating rod by either marking and solderinging or screwing onto the threaded rod and securing with Loctite/CA and/or a locknut.

I really mention it without wishing to dampen your enthusiasm I see some of the suggested mods for building a Four Star 40 here ranging from inane to totally over the top making me wonder why the author/s bought a Four Star in the first place?

What I'm trying to share is something I learnt a long time ago. To analogise, if one wants a GP bike, one should buy a GP bike rather than wasting resourse trying to hot up/modify their Strada 250 to try and achieve the same performance. In the case of the Four Star, whilst using two aileron servos certainly won't hurt anything except the builder's wallet and build time, it's superfluous.

Not many people do, although it is less annoying for those fitting a four stroke.

Measure the bay internal dimensions from the plan. You can cross-check those dimensions against as specified by both Sullivan and DuBro for their individual tanks. WIth flexis, RSTs, ovals, etc., Sullivan are sure to have a 10oz which will fit. As I recall there's no problem with space within the bay, only in getting a rigid 10oz past the former. A 10oz flexi can easily be manipulated through (& retrieved) without mod.

If you end up using it at sustained full throttle, you will want a 10oz tank with this engine to achieve a 12 min flight with ~ 10% landing buffer.

The beauty of the hobby is customizing and building something unique. You can build it as per plans or put some nice touches and subtle differences in to suit your style. If we were concerned about every penny we put into a plane, we wouldn't be in this hobby.

Its nice that you obviously build all of your aircraft according to the plans, but that's not enough for everyone.

Customization is rampant in everything. It doesn't make sense that someone would put $10,000 in a 1990 Honda Civic but thousands of people do. Why, you may ask? To express themselves as individuals.

I personally don't like planes that look like the picture on the box, you may and that is your perogative. But please don't disparage those who go the extra mile to make something truly special.

My Four Star
Inverted .46fx
Remote Glow Heat (10.00)
Flaps (Flap servo 20.00)
Single Aileron servo w/nyrod actuation.
US Army styled cover scheme.
Full Balsa Cowl (2.00)
2 Fourmost Bomb Releases (6.00)

HELP ME STOP THE INSANITY, I HAVE SPENT AN EXTRA 38.00 DOLLARS!!!

Keep up the creativity!

Hey Pale!

The Fuselage goes together quite well. I was actually surprised. Everything fit pretty well. Have rubber bands ready. You do have to wet the front part forward of the canopy to get it to conform (directions will tell this). So have a light spray bottle ready. I use a hair spray bottle. I put the fuel tank bottom where the kit called for it. Some people install it down lower for a larger tank.

Ensure you get the engine torque line correct. I can post a picture of my engine compartment if you want. I fuel proofed the engine compartment also with epoxy.

I did the reinforcement aft of F3 (I believe it is F3), which is just aft of the TE of the wing.

Do a trial fit of the wing into the fuselage. I did this and could see I needed to sand the LE alittle bit more to get the wing to fit snug into the fuselage.

Do not cover the remaining part of the wing until you glue in the wing dowel (There are 2 panel left open after you do the first part of the wing). This is open so you can get glue to the dowel. Follow directions for sanding a point on the wing dowel and marking it (I used red chaulk to mark the point) for correct drill position on the wings LE. It works! If you can get a set of extra hands to hold the wing while drilling the dowel position, all the better.

Make sure you put in the additional support for the wing mounting bolt block in the fuselage. After you drill these out you have to tap them. Once they are tapped, added some CA to the holes and let them dry, this will stregthen the holes. When you drill for the holes for the wing mounting bolts ENSURE your wing cannot move, because it is mounted to the fuselage for this procedure!! I understand some builders drill the wing first, mount it, and then drill the fuselage mounting blocks using the holes in the wing as a guide. Anyone do this instead?

The insturuction will tell you to go to a procedure in the other manual to measure the wingtips to the back of the fuselage before you do your drilling to ensure correct wing position. Mine fell pretty much right on. Insure you do this! Mine was about 1/8th of an inch off after the wing was mounted, so it shifted alittle bit. I guess that is not too bad.

Mold a piece of ply and put it where you will screw in the tailwheel mount. I used a Sullivan and the extra support will help.

Putting in wing mounted servos was not as bad as I thought it would be. I enjoyed doing it. I will post pictures.

Epoxy the Control rod into the holes for each frame. This is give them more strength. I mounted the servos per direction. They went in pretty smooth I positioned the Rudder and Elevator servos sit almost on the cockpit base (1/2 of the servos almost rest on the base).

I did not receive a nylon (fiberglass) band with my kit, it was missing. I went out and bought 2" nylon tape and sprayed it with sticky adhesive. Some kind of 3M 77 stuff. Then I layed it down with finishing epoxy. It worked quite well. Do yourself a favor and go out and get some wider fiberglass tape for the wing joint. I sanded the bottom of the wing kinda smooth (80 grit, 180 grit, then 320 grit) but the top of the wing not as much as it is covered by the fuselage anyways.

If I think of anything more I will type them down. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.

Have fun!!

Sigrun!

FULL THROTTLE! Are you crazy??

I just putt around the sky!!

Whoops! I forgot.

Wing mating. You actually set the dihedral in two places. One was setting the angle on the joining ribs and the other was using the dihedral brace. I ended up with 1 3/4 inches wing tip height.

I used 30 minute epoxy. Any spaces I filled in with Med CA

Mine went together quite well but it is a hair raising experience.

AWESOME! Thanks Swager.

I was planning on framing up the fuse last night but I epoxied the aileron torque rods to mounting block and started "sipping the sauce" while they dried and got a little loopy! So needless to say I didn't get a lot done!

I'd like to see some pics of your aileron servos. It sounds like it went well.

I have the sullivan tail wheel too. What size wheel and tire did you use for the mains? It calls for a 2 3/4. THOSE SEEM HUGE! I have 2 1/4 on a UCANDO and they are fine.

I'll post some pics of the bomb release servo, flap servo and aileron servo when I get them installed.

Yeah, the wings pretty much sucked joining. It's pretty close. I set it for 1 1/2" dihedral, I didn't really want the full 2". Judging from what I have read, it should be fine.

Hey Pale!

I got a DuBro 3/4" tailwheel and I use............

3" mains!! I have 3" mains on my Superstar and they work wonders on the grass. Im using the Sullivan Skylites.

Mounting the tailwheel. Oh Boy!

Ya know those metal screw guides that go into the rubber gromets to mount servos? Well, I put one of those on the tailwheel axel and sodered it!Turned out nicely. I think they make wheel collars that small also.

3 INCH MAINS, GOOD GOD MAN![X(]

Good idea on the grommet inserts.

What kind of color scheme are you going with?

Medium purple, yellow and white trim. I do not know How I am going to lay it out yet. I know the wings will be yellow with med. purple fat stripes on the bottom.

That is as far as I got!

swager,
top purple base with yellow flames...yeah??
white bottom with big purple " swager " logo on bottom of wing?

i use a piece of glass as a cutting surface when cutting flim.
i draw designs on the base coat with a sharpie (fuel takes it off)
trace the design with wax paper.
lay wax paper on top of the film ..tape it down of course.
cut the wax paper over the film.
save the wax paer ...flip it over for the opposite of wing or design.

3" mains is a good idea where i take off and land.
hell... i even install .60 size gear to get more prop clearance.

here a .40 i've been working on.
i went for the clean look this time .lol

That's your perspective. To those of us more logically inclined, it doesn't make sense to try and make a silk purse from a sow's ear when there are obvious smarter and more cost effective alternatives available. One doesn't have to heed logic, but it never hurts to listen.

Now who's being condescending of a differing point of view whilst claiming the high moral ground of admiring individual expression? Pardon my chuckle won't you? Not that I mind. But not only is it an incorrect presumption, it contradicts the "freedom of creative expression" perspective to which you allegedly adhere.

Disparagement wasn't on my agenda. Offering an logical rather than 'creative' alternative through advice to a the neophyte was.

Changing the colour scheme neither costs anything nor alters the flight characteristics. That's creative expression. Altering the design does. That's simply dumb unless you know what you are doing.

In the case of the Four Star, its target market and obvious experience of the original inquirer, he will benefit most by KISS and flying lots.

Sticking with the original design save perhaps increasing the volume of the fuel tank to better suit the consumption of his intended power plant, changing the tailwheel to one not dependent upon the rudder hinge strength and taping the canopy on are really all the mods required in the Four Star for operational longevity & reliability. Intentional shear points at the base of the vertical stab and gear block should be left as just that. If the latter presents a problem to any flyer of a Four Star, they need to forget "creativity"and return to their pimary trainer for further tuition and reinforcement in approach and landing technique until they master the basics. Save the energy of 'individual expression, 'customisation' & "creativity' for the colour scheme - or build # 2 or 3 of the design. In the case of the Four Star, it'll perform manoeuvres out of the box better than any neophyte (to whom the intended advice was proffered) can expect to master before rampant consumerism exhausts initial excitement and diverts his attention the next novelty.

Swager

With a 46FX in the Four Star you'll see what I mean if you build it light as per plan.

I didn't want to say it earlier lest it be seen as "disparaging" <grin> but as one who is used to and likes lots of power for pattern verticals, a powerplant in this class is a both mismatch and excessive in the Four Star IMHO. Its not a 3D design. I've tried a few powerplants including a 46FX equivalent in the Four Star and found the largest 2 stroke offering preferred in it the equivalent of a 40FX. Even this is power in abundance for the Four Star 40.

Whilst a 46FX inarguably offers greater (unnecessarily) sustained vertical, it is accompanied by the disadvantage of constantly retrimming to accomodate small throttle changes which represent larger thrust changes effecting speed and the AoA relationship given the aerofoil and wing loading of the Star. In simple-speak what I'm saying is that it's simply unnecessary and spoils the intended characteristics of the design such that unlesss you want to be constantly climbing unintentionally, you'll be on/off the throttle all the time and retrimming rather than setting her to "Give her all she's got Scottie" power, trimming and concentrating upon finessing manoeuvre for the most part.

HeySig,

I hear ya. I had a few choices for the power plant. I bought this engine last year thinking "Somethin Extra" I have decided to take it easy and slowly grow into a SE. I believe if built correct the 4 Star 40 is a good match with the 46FX. I am looking into a Thunder Tiger 42 or 46. Hell there is a guy at our field that flies a ST 51 in his trainer. We also have a few folks who have dropped FS 52s in their trainers. If I purchase another 40 size engine before I mount this one, I will swap and save the 46 FX for the SIG SE I just bought.

Pale,

I have some photos for you.

First is the bottom of the wing with servo in wings

Second is top of wing. You can see the servos

Third is Close photo of servo in position.

Hope it helps you!!