I just received a Roto 35 to install in mine, it fits really well, not much of the head will stick out of the bottom. Hooking up the throttle and choke linkage will be a trick though. Like V-snap I plan on intalling the Elevator and Rudder servos in the tail for balance. I have a 3 blade prop to help smooth out the motor. Are/did you guys use the stock landing gear, it seems soft?

I am using the Midwest Super Stinker LG which is 19 dollars and way stronger. Never have a problem with it, it is almost 5 mm thick, will fit nicely into the LG area. No modification was needed, it is two pieces LG. It is already installed in my previous picture.

I used the stock gear, as it is better to bend the gear than bust the LG block out. I do have the TNT gear should I change my mind. She will bounce if one doesen't land softly, but being a floater its no problem to land slow & soft.

Thanks for the feed back guys

I got tired of the stock LG. After it bends once, it will be eager to bend easily at the same place each time you make a landing. An alternative is to bolt the Midwest or another thick LG with 4 big nylon screws (with blind nuts), or mid size regular wood screws (without blind nuts) so they would not pull the LG block out in a harder than normal landing. The Midwest is the cheapest alternative, others will cost you more. I replaced the original LG after some months, it has blind nuts anyway. See the Midwest:

Red, I noticed that the front sides of your fuse are sheeted, the manual does not show to do this. I like how yours looks much better, was it dificult to add?

It wasn´t difficult at all. I just used some good quality balsa sheets of 1mm and customized them to the proper shape. I like the round smooth looking that it adds to the plane. From the middle to the back is ok with the sticks.
The Roto 35 seems to be a very good choice. I wonder how a 3 blade prop will help to smooth out the engine, you mean, that it will shake a little less or that it would reduce its pulling power?

I also had the front sheeted to the wings leading edge. I did this due to the vibration of the 2.4 I used on mine. The brison 2.4 was a good combo for this plane. With the servos in the tail and flying wires it balanced right on. I then began to move the receiver and battery back to a comfortable level. Once there it flew great till it was shot down. Now I am thinking about the Goldberg Pitts for the 2.4. I did like this plane alot but I have to much to build to work on another one now.

As for the landing gear I ran 2-56 rod in a X pattern with springs by the fuse to the axle mounts. This worked great as the softness of the aluminum with the springs allowed for some flex on our un-improved strip.

I followed the recomendation in this group and got the Midwest gear too.
Shipped to my door, it came to $23. This is heavy duty stuff.
The package included a set of axles, which was a nice surprise.

This gear is noticeably taller, and a shade narrower than the stock Lanier gear.
I don't think this will harm anything. I can always bend it if it doesn't handle well.
Apart from that, as Redrata said, fits perfectly.

One more question for all you guru's, did you set all surfaces to the same incidence? I think the manual said 0 degrees for the tail and wings. I think I'm going to sheet the front fuse sides also, it looks more scale.

When I brought this up a couple of months ago, consensus seemed to be lower wing and stab at 0 degrees, top wing at -1.5 degrees. That's the way I set mine up to start.

Unless someone tries to talk me out of it, I'll be setting the motor box at 3 degrees right, 2 degrees down. Motor will be a Brison 2.4 swinging a 20x8 Menz S.

Martyg,
I was thinking to have that combo originally, but then my BME44 "suddenly became available", so I drop the project. I guess that the Brison will be the perfect engine, not only for its exterior measures, but also, because I heard that is a real soft running engine. Ideal for a plane like this.
I have the same degrees you have. I think the upper wing in mine is -1. Also I have a 3mm wire that cross the upper wing mounting holes, so it gets attached at once, without any screws. I will post a pic later.
If possible, please, post a pic of your Brisson when installed, I will enjoy to see how it looks. Thanks.

Got a couple more days of building in. Radio placement is roughed in.
All the surfaces are bevelled, hinges are fitted. Gear and tank are mounted.

Recommend the top formers and top/side stringers be left out until the very end.
If you follow the sequence in the instructions, this stuff just gets in the way for no good reason.

When I get back from the holidays, focus will be on mounting the engine and cowl.
I'll post more pictures when I get closer to getting a trial balance.

Hope it flies as good as they say. This one is a lot of work. [X(]

Nice work Marty, I noticed that your ply wing tips aren't mounted, any reason?

Nice job. You are almost done. I couldn´t get my elevator servos as back at the tail as yours, are they standard size servos?

No reason, they will go on soon.
Wing tips are easy to do, just a few minutes work before final sanding.

The motor box and cowl are the next big projects I'll be worrying about.
The plan is to mock up the motor box using the lite ply parts, then cut out a more solid one from aircraft ply.

Yes, standard servos all around.
I have an inventory of Hitec 5945, 5625, and 5475 I can put on this plane.
My current plan is 5625 on ailerons and elevators, 5945 on rudder.
Top ailerons will be slaved to the bottom with CF pushrods.

I've been working real serious at this since I got back from the holidays.
Everything is installed and adjusted. At this point, this is a fully functional aircraft.
Plane is now ready for final sanding, covering, and paint. (I hate surprises once the finish is on)

Weight will come out at about 13lb. CG is just about where it needs to be.
Redrata, I will post pictures of the engine installation when I take the cowl off.

I now make it a habit to build PVC transport stands for all my planes.
That way, everything has a place to go, and the model doesn't get banged up in transport.
Having all the small parts well organized should help speed along assembly at the field too.

Marty, lookin real nice. I have to get my butt in gear with mine

Looks great, its all down hill from here...I like the stand Idea, one for each plane keeps things organized in the shop at least...

Hey Marty, can you get me a close up shot on your rear servo install and how did you fill in the landing gear mount area?

Oh yea my thrust was set at 3 degrees right 0 down...

Redrata, some engine pics for you.
BTW, muffler is a J&A peacekeeper.

Rear servo mount is built using vertical rails in aft fuselage side cavity.
Mount the servos and double check clearances. Shim with scrap ply to space servos outward.
When installing side stringers, anchor the stringers at edges, cut excess to clear servo cavities.
Then build up around servos with 1/4sq balsa. Sand/taper everything to fuselage contour.
Idea is for covering to look smooth over this area, even though there are rectangular holes in there.
Both sides are identical. Lower cavity (rudder servo) will just be left covered up on one side.

Landing gear fairing is just a hollow balsa box I improvised in place. Weighs next to nothing.
Mounts using two #4 capscrews into spanwise rails over the main gear.
Look closely at my earlier cowl bottom picture to see how it fits together.

Hope this gives you some good ideas. Post pictures of your creation when done, OK?

Marty great work on those mods, thanks mucho for the pics. I'll get some pics in when its ready, thanks again.