4* 40 construction issue
#1
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From: Lombard, IL
Hey guys...I am building a 4* 40, from kit. I am in the process of constructing the fuselage, and aligned the wing, just for fun. It doesnt look like its gonna fit the fuselage?????
The aerelon blocks that mount on the end of the wing make it just slightly too broad to fit. Just wondering what you guys thought. I have never built a bolt-on wing. Im a little alarmed. Its a bout 1/8 inch too broad to fit the fuselage. Maybe I have just overlooked a future step in the instructions to do some sanding down to fit.
Is this normal?
-Tom
The aerelon blocks that mount on the end of the wing make it just slightly too broad to fit. Just wondering what you guys thought. I have never built a bolt-on wing. Im a little alarmed. Its a bout 1/8 inch too broad to fit the fuselage. Maybe I have just overlooked a future step in the instructions to do some sanding down to fit.
Is this normal?
-Tom
#3

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I agree with Minn flyer. My son and I have built three of them and the back edge of all 3 wings has been trimmed to fit into the fuselage. You will need to get to the point where the wings mounts to the fuse and see what needs to be trimmed. Ours are about an 1/8 inch and one of them is about 3/16 inch notch. Good luck and rest assured, they are a sweet flying plane. Good Luck, Dave
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From: Lombard, IL
Thanks guys!
I am thinking that maybe Sig expected me to do alot more sanding than I actually did. better to be too large than too small. at least, I can do something about that.
I hadnt gotten to the point where I was "pannicked" about it, because I sorta thought I must have just misread something in the instruction book. I have a little experience building, so I was sorta reading forward in the plans, doing things ahead of time, while stuff was sitting around drying.
Started fitting the wing on the fuselage...and immediately said "woooo this doesnt quite fit" (about 1/8 of an inch, can easily sand her down).
I got about 100 flights logged on the Sig LT-40. What do you guys think my prospects of flying this thing without any help are? I dont want to go through the buddy-cord thing again.
I am thinking that maybe Sig expected me to do alot more sanding than I actually did. better to be too large than too small. at least, I can do something about that.
I hadnt gotten to the point where I was "pannicked" about it, because I sorta thought I must have just misread something in the instruction book. I have a little experience building, so I was sorta reading forward in the plans, doing things ahead of time, while stuff was sitting around drying.
Started fitting the wing on the fuselage...and immediately said "woooo this doesnt quite fit" (about 1/8 of an inch, can easily sand her down).
I got about 100 flights logged on the Sig LT-40. What do you guys think my prospects of flying this thing without any help are? I dont want to go through the buddy-cord thing again.
#5

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If you have soloed with your trainer, you should not have any problems at all. You may want to consider getting your instructor, or other really qualified pilot to make the first flight to do the trimming of the plane. If you are familar with the trimming process, fire up the engine and away you go. Good Luck, Dave
#6
This plane flies great. It is a little faster to react to inputs at times, but still a lot of fun to fly. Just relax and get used to the fact that it is not a trainer.
Sunny_b
Sunny_b
#7
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From: Lombard, IL
I've got around 80 solo flights on my LT-40, after flying with an instructor for maybe 25 flights...... so I have over 100 flights total...probably more like 125. Takeoffs and landings are routine, with the LT-40. The other night, I did touch-n-go's......on the last flight before sunset. Must have gotten in 13-14 nearly perfect landings, before I finally sat her down.
I can do lazy rolls, loops, and can "fly the pattern" with ease. I dont have alot of skill flying the rudder. I play around with it some, practice flying the plane with it, but if my aerelons failed, I'd probably freak out a little. That is the extent of my "advanced" flying skills.
The only reason I ask about whether I can fly it on my own....is that i hated flying on the buddy cord. Most people would rather fly their own plane, rather than fly with me on my trainer.
Looking forward to flying a plane that is less of a "dog", and doesnt have a nosewheel.
I can do lazy rolls, loops, and can "fly the pattern" with ease. I dont have alot of skill flying the rudder. I play around with it some, practice flying the plane with it, but if my aerelons failed, I'd probably freak out a little. That is the extent of my "advanced" flying skills.
The only reason I ask about whether I can fly it on my own....is that i hated flying on the buddy cord. Most people would rather fly their own plane, rather than fly with me on my trainer.
Looking forward to flying a plane that is less of a "dog", and doesnt have a nosewheel.
#8
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From: el centro, CA
it's a floater...
practice taxi on ground without the wing to get the feel of the tail drag.
it would also be a good time to re-inspect for loose screws
sucks to spend time building and not to be the first.
but me knees be knocking too much.
i usually don't do the frist flight on all my planes.
this way, i can focus more on the integrety of the plane
and making sure everything is the way it's suppose to be.
my instructor will trim, stall test, tune the engine and recommend
any control throws. Do evasive manuvers if need be.
practice taxi on ground without the wing to get the feel of the tail drag.
it would also be a good time to re-inspect for loose screws
sucks to spend time building and not to be the first.
but me knees be knocking too much.
i usually don't do the frist flight on all my planes.
this way, i can focus more on the integrety of the plane
and making sure everything is the way it's suppose to be.
my instructor will trim, stall test, tune the engine and recommend
any control throws. Do evasive manuvers if need be.
#9
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From: Evans,
GA
You will not need a buddy box.
I went from an LT-40 (about 100 flights) to a 4*40 two summers ago. For the first flight have someone experienced take off, trim it and set appropriate rates for you. Then have them hand you the box a few mistakes high. The 4* will be very fast and responsive compared to the trainer which will take a little getting used to. But if you pull the throttle way back and slow it down you should find it very forgiving and easy to fly, just like the trainer. Landings won't feel much different than the trainer- I found landing my 4* actually easier than the LT-40.
Since this will be your first tail-dragger you will need some coaching on take-offs but you should get the hang of it pretty fast.
When you begin to feel comfortable with the plane then open up the throttle, hang on and have fun! You will find that you don't need to use rudder to fly a 4*, but as you learn new tricks you will find yourself using it for snap rolls, spins and the like.
I went from an LT-40 (about 100 flights) to a 4*40 two summers ago. For the first flight have someone experienced take off, trim it and set appropriate rates for you. Then have them hand you the box a few mistakes high. The 4* will be very fast and responsive compared to the trainer which will take a little getting used to. But if you pull the throttle way back and slow it down you should find it very forgiving and easy to fly, just like the trainer. Landings won't feel much different than the trainer- I found landing my 4* actually easier than the LT-40.
Since this will be your first tail-dragger you will need some coaching on take-offs but you should get the hang of it pretty fast.
When you begin to feel comfortable with the plane then open up the throttle, hang on and have fun! You will find that you don't need to use rudder to fly a 4*, but as you learn new tricks you will find yourself using it for snap rolls, spins and the like.
#11
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From: Cincinnati,
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hey, i'm actually (hopefully) taking my 4*40 up for it's maiden flight today. I'll tell ya how it goes. I flew a trainer for a while, and passed my training course, but then went out of hobby. I'm back now after 2+ years, and hopefully i can handle this bugger!
#12
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From: el centro, CA
dual rated Tx computers r nice.
the way my control throws on semi bash 4 *s are way beyound plan's
recommendations on high rates. on low rates it's mild use for take off and landings.
i usually slow the plane down and do fly by a couple of times
to let my speed perception adjust before attempting landings.
you'll start noticing ground effects more on a low wing verse a high
wing. a coushion of air between the wing and ground during landings or
flairing. i over shot at first. the plane seems to want to keep on flying
more than my trainer, at first.
if you don't have a dual rate TX , set the throws low at first.
Then work yourself up as you get more comfortable with the plane
be increasing the throw or setting the CG back.
you'll start noticing your dead leftthumb as you pratice aerobics.
the way my control throws on semi bash 4 *s are way beyound plan's
recommendations on high rates. on low rates it's mild use for take off and landings.
i usually slow the plane down and do fly by a couple of times
to let my speed perception adjust before attempting landings.
you'll start noticing ground effects more on a low wing verse a high
wing. a coushion of air between the wing and ground during landings or
flairing. i over shot at first. the plane seems to want to keep on flying
more than my trainer, at first.
if you don't have a dual rate TX , set the throws low at first.
Then work yourself up as you get more comfortable with the plane
be increasing the throw or setting the CG back.
you'll start noticing your dead leftthumb as you pratice aerobics.
#13
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From: Evans,
GA
My 4* didn't last long, I had a head-on midair collision with a huge Staudacher a few months after its maiden. See the pics in my gallery. But by then I was ready to fly more challenging planes, and I haven't looked back since.
But I really loved my 4*, and might build another just for fun one day!
[8D]
But I really loved my 4*, and might build another just for fun one day!
[8D]
#14

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I think you may have to get used to using rudder on takeoffs and taxiing. I started using rudder on my trainer about a month before my second plane which was a low wing, taildragger too. Just start sneaking rudder in your turns and get your thumbs used to using it. It comes easy as you can forget and just use ailerons without messing up. I now enjoy rudder with turns to keep it tracking well. You can have some great takeoffs if you put rudder into the wind and keep the wings level too. It has a very good look that you don't get with just ailerons.
A lot of sanding? Hah, I sometimes wish I had built the 4 Star instead of the Sig Kavalier as it is a lot of sanding on everything. I think it is going to be a great plane when finished. I almost got the 4 Star. I think I breathed in a pound of balsa dust along the way with the Kavalier.
A lot of sanding? Hah, I sometimes wish I had built the 4 Star instead of the Sig Kavalier as it is a lot of sanding on everything. I think it is going to be a great plane when finished. I almost got the 4 Star. I think I breathed in a pound of balsa dust along the way with the Kavalier.
#15
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From: Evans,
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The rudder on a 4* doesn't really lend itself to "coordinated turns"- this has been noted and discussed in several discussion threads. It tends to bank the plane like a trainer and also causes the nose to drop. In fact the plane designer (Bruce Tharpe) made changes to the tail design to eliminate this effect when he released his Venture 60 which is otherwise a very similar plane. That being said, the rudder does work well for snaps and spins, and it is very necessary during takeoff!
My advice to anyone moving up from a trainer to a 4*- don't worry about using the rudder during flight until you get used to the plane, then give it a try.
My advice to anyone moving up from a trainer to a 4*- don't worry about using the rudder during flight until you get used to the plane, then give it a try.
#16
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From: el centro, CA
a simple maneuvers to bring left thumb back to life
is the stall trun or hammer head. this way you're working
the rudder and throttle. i use it as a turnaround
i got into a bad habit of flying at full throttle all the time.
throttle management require discipline,now
is the stall trun or hammer head. this way you're working
the rudder and throttle. i use it as a turnaround
i got into a bad habit of flying at full throttle all the time.
throttle management require discipline,now
#18
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From: Lombard, IL
whats nutty about the 4* 40... I just completed the fuselage...and am wondering how in the world I am gonna fit my fuel tank in that boxed in area....got it all glued, so its too late to install the tank right now. according to the directions, I will have no trouble getting a tank in that little hole entering from the wing opening...hmm
#20
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From: el centro, CA
look'in good connery.
with .46..i use a 10oz
i think it's nutty not to have access to the fuel tank area.
i don't glue the bottom ply piece and use that as a hatch
hard wood at the corners and 2 at the front and six screws to hold it down.
saves me time later if the clunk gets shove forward or a leak
develop.
colectc,
drop a couple of strings thur the front of the fire wall
tie the string to a rod, nail ,or something.
sholve the nail into the fuel line so you can pull the fuel lines
thur the firewall.
when wraping the tank make a handle with the tape at the
back end of the tank. this way... you can pull it out if you need to.
i've enlarge the hole and re enforce it with hardwood or tri , and
epoxy when fitting a larger tank into an enclosed tank area.
with .46..i use a 10oz
i think it's nutty not to have access to the fuel tank area.
i don't glue the bottom ply piece and use that as a hatch
hard wood at the corners and 2 at the front and six screws to hold it down.
saves me time later if the clunk gets shove forward or a leak
develop.
colectc,
drop a couple of strings thur the front of the fire wall
tie the string to a rod, nail ,or something.
sholve the nail into the fuel line so you can pull the fuel lines
thur the firewall.
when wraping the tank make a handle with the tape at the
back end of the tank. this way... you can pull it out if you need to.
i've enlarge the hole and re enforce it with hardwood or tri , and
epoxy when fitting a larger tank into an enclosed tank area.



