Dihedral on a 4*60
#1
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From: Houston, TX
Okay, I finally got around to building my 4*60. Here's a question for those of you who have built it:
Should I build the wing flat? Or maybe just reduce the dihedral angle a little would be better? Or, maybe I should just leave well enough alone and build the wing stock?
I'm not looking for a totally decoupled 3D-type airplane, as the 4*60 is clearly more of a sport fun fly than a precision aerobat. I do like to build the 4*60 so that it will go where I point it - and STAY there.
Thanks.
Should I build the wing flat? Or maybe just reduce the dihedral angle a little would be better? Or, maybe I should just leave well enough alone and build the wing stock?
I'm not looking for a totally decoupled 3D-type airplane, as the 4*60 is clearly more of a sport fun fly than a precision aerobat. I do like to build the 4*60 so that it will go where I point it - and STAY there.
Thanks.
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From: Locust Grove,
GA
I have flown one flat and with 50% reduced dihedrel. I would go with some dihedrel 50% should be OK. The flat wing version didn't feel right. I own aerobatic planes and there is benefit in those and when I fly for fun I don'pt want to work at it.
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From: King,
NC
My experience has been that the stock 4 deg is nice. I built one with 2 deg and I needed a 5% mix of rudder with ailerons. When I tried a wing with 0 deg dihedral I saw some more adverse yall. I also agree with Geistware that the reduced dihedral versions just "feels" different. You have to use the rudder alot more to get good turns.
I'm building another 4*60 right now and will keep the 4 deg dihedral but the 2 deg is not too bad, every design change has pros and cons. I would suggest making the rudder 1.5 to 2 times larger and increase the elevators by 1.25 as well. Pull-pull works nicely with the larger rudder. Also the Sig Smith Mini Plane cowl fits with a little sheet balsa added to the sides. There are so many things you can do this design, I love them!
Marcus
I'm building another 4*60 right now and will keep the 4 deg dihedral but the 2 deg is not too bad, every design change has pros and cons. I would suggest making the rudder 1.5 to 2 times larger and increase the elevators by 1.25 as well. Pull-pull works nicely with the larger rudder. Also the Sig Smith Mini Plane cowl fits with a little sheet balsa added to the sides. There are so many things you can do this design, I love them!
Marcus
#6
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From: Houston, TX
Thanks for the suggestions so far.
I don't plan on flying inverted all the time.
Since this is a low winger, wouldn't anhedral be inherently unstable flying upright?
I do plan on enlarging the rudder and elevators. I also plan on driving each elevator half with a separate servo. Still haven't decided whether I want to do quad flaps on this one.
I did swap out the stock landing gear with a much more stout unit. I've had many pilots told me the stock aluminum gear is crap. I will also glass the landing gear mounting area as it is reportedly a weak spot.
I agree this kit is such a joy to put together that it's hard not to want to spiff it up with a few mods.
I don't plan on flying inverted all the time.
Since this is a low winger, wouldn't anhedral be inherently unstable flying upright?I do plan on enlarging the rudder and elevators. I also plan on driving each elevator half with a separate servo. Still haven't decided whether I want to do quad flaps on this one.
I did swap out the stock landing gear with a much more stout unit. I've had many pilots told me the stock aluminum gear is crap. I will also glass the landing gear mounting area as it is reportedly a weak spot.
I agree this kit is such a joy to put together that it's hard not to want to spiff it up with a few mods.
#7
I would take some of the dihedrahl out- about half as much as the plan recomends is good- as others have suggested.
Here is my other suggestions:
Reinforce the landing gear block A LOT!! it is terribly weak--add some larger Triangle stock and then glass it.
DOUBLE the size of ALL control surfaces- ailerons included
Put a 120 4-stroke or a hot 91 2-stroke on it for power.
Use Robart hinges or something besides those cheap CA hinges- if your gonna put this plane through a lot of hard flyin; you'll be happy with stronger hinges.
Pull-pull rudder
I like to cut the canopy down to almost half it's original size- makes the nose of the plane look longer- kinda like a warbird.
It's a great plane to fly-- have fun with it.
Here is my other suggestions:
Reinforce the landing gear block A LOT!! it is terribly weak--add some larger Triangle stock and then glass it.
DOUBLE the size of ALL control surfaces- ailerons included
Put a 120 4-stroke or a hot 91 2-stroke on it for power.
Use Robart hinges or something besides those cheap CA hinges- if your gonna put this plane through a lot of hard flyin; you'll be happy with stronger hinges.
Pull-pull rudder
I like to cut the canopy down to almost half it's original size- makes the nose of the plane look longer- kinda like a warbird.
It's a great plane to fly-- have fun with it.
#8
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I built mine with the stock dihedral and it tracks just fine. I did however clip the wing 1 bay each side. It still lands nice and slow and the roll rate is increased. Go with a sullivan tail wheel, the stock unit will eventually ruin your rudder.
I also cut the canopy down a little. It flys great with a TT .91 fs.
I also cut the canopy down a little. It flys great with a TT .91 fs.




