mikem99

Thanks Ken,

But just for a little more clarification; is this vinyl the same as or similiar to Monokote type films?[sm=72_72.gif]

Thanks


Mike

dumorian

My Feedback: (6)

Got the top of the second wing done. It's off the board and trimming is in progress along with adding the rest of the webs and some glue fillets from the underside. Woot! I might actually even get it sheeted on the bottom tomorrow, which will put me into aileron and flap (yeah, my mod of adding flaps) building. I spent just a bit of extra time before installing the wing tube in this one to make sure it was going to match up to the other wing. I did manage to do this on the board... just had to lift the root end of the wing on the board a bit.

I've been thinking about this cardboard tube. I think I might try coating the first inch or so of the inside with some thin CA. Then do a bit of sanding to smooth it up. It seems like this might help prevent binding on the aluminum tube and chaffing of the cardboard. Anybody done this sort of thing?

It went a bit slow today. Even though I've used entirely CA so far... a mix of thin, medium, thick and a special extra performance CA made for high stress areas. That's a neat glue. It's like super epoxy. It sticks really well but stays flexible. I've been using this around the wing tube. The only problem is it only comes in medium, so it runs pretty bad. It's made by Mercury Adhesives and the cost is rotten.... $15 an ounce!!! Yuck!!! But darn it looks like the perfect product for those few special areas on every plane.

I could have rushed along the CA drying with some kicker, but I really don't like to use kicker in most situations. I feel like it makes the glue a lot more brittle, even though harder. I also worry that the glue doesn't get the time to penetrate as well. Sometimes this is a good thing, but for general building, I like to let it dry on it's on. I use those times to do research in the online hobby stores.... but that gets expensive!!!

So, I have this one cart built today. Contains the rest of my covering, a pull/pull system and a few other choice bits and pieces for this plane. I have been searching for a wrap around muffler for the CRRC Pro 40cc. Seems there isn't one. I ran across Jtec. They make scads of mufflers. It says on their site that they make them there and generally make them at the point of getting an order. They also say that they can make a muffler for just about anything. I've sent them an email to see if the pricing holds about the same for making one not listed. If so, it'll be about the cost of any of the nice mufflers and I'll have my last bit of figuring stuff out completed! As a side note on this, they also have a quieting mod they do. It looks a lot like the typical old screw on mufflers that fit on a typical Briggs engine only smaller. I'm going to check the weight on those. If not too bad, I think I might have them add a set of those if it doesn't get too spendy. And, while they're doing it, I think I'll go ahead and have them add smoke to the muffler which of course means another tank for the plane. That engine however should have plenty of power to haul this and more around... towing a big glider for one... so a smoke system shouldn't bother it too bad.

Also in my cart are a couple of items to beef up the wing strut connections. I'm planning to use the 8-32 inserts in the wings and plan to use heavier metal parts instead of plastic as the fastening point on the ends of the struts. I'm hoping I'll have a strong enough build to do some stupid stuff with the model... something a bit more aggressive than what most folks expect from a high wing sport looking plane. That's one of the reasons for the flaps. I can run full span ailerons and get a much faster roll rate. I haven't done anything to the elevators to allow for more rudder travel, but might increase the elevator travel a bit beyond standard. I do plan to use a CF rod system for my flying wire setup. I've had really good success with these on aerobatic models. Before I do the final stab finish, I'll do a bit of bending to see how strong it appears. If it seems at all flexible, I might add a couple of CF straps top and bottom around the hinge point. The elevators themselves seem to be well though out and should be plenty strong.

OK... so that's where I am! Obviously I'm not trying to do a scale model. I have no plans whatsoever to do any interior detail... but it might get a pilot or some stuffed animal in there. Geez... I might actually get to start on the fuse pretty soon! Then again, I just might have to take a bit of a break from balsa dust and cover these wings! I'm getting pretty anxious to see what they are going to look like. I'm going to attempt to cut the stars myself... if I do the stars... and the pin striping for around the star patterns. This will be the most challenging work I've done with covering thus far. I just might have to hop over onto that so I'm not faced with doing all of them at one time and perhaps get sloppy.

Yes... I'm having a lot of fun!

teeceeveecee

dumorian:

J-tec is excellent. They made a custom ( 3.5" long cannister vs 4.0" ) to fit on my Zenoah 20-EI in my Balsa USA Eindecker E-III . Since everything is made to order it didn't cost any more than the standard wrap around they make for the ltttle 20-EI, it was about $80.00.

BTW, I modified my Eindecker to a two piece wing instead of the 80" one piece. I contacted TNT Wing Tubes for a 1.0" - 6061 tube and sleeve set. Their sleeves are made of Phenolic. I am going to use them for my Decathlon as well. I used the standard tube and sleeve on my first Decathlon but I wasn't too happy with it.

E T

kwhite.6

I just received my Decathlon kit friday. The only thing I've done so far is worked on the cowl and I think I'll order a fiberglass one. My big concern is the engine. It's got to be gas and I would like to keep it concealed inside the cowl without spending a fortune. I was thinking about a crrc 26 or there 40cc. Both are priced good but I'm a little worried about the power of the 26cc and I've read that dumorian is getting a wrap around muffler for the 40cc. If the 40cc would fit without cutting the cowl for the muffler, that's what I'll use. If not then I may try to build as lite as possible and use the 26cc. Any comments will be greatly appreciated.

box car

Mike, it is not like the films. I could cut you off a little and mail it to you, e-mail me your address. Some guys like some don't. I like it because it easy to use and strong, adds a little weight so I add a little more engine.
Ken

box car

I like flaps too, anyone know why the full size Decathlon did not have flaps? I also will use a pull- pull system on the rudder and that tail wheel has to go. I will mount all my drive gear for the rear controls in th tail of the plane, I don't like long push rods.
Ken

rsad

Ken,

Is this sign Vinyl like used on truck lettering and......signs or is it like contact paper that you line shelves and draws with?

Rick

box car

Yes it is the type used for truck signs, but you have to use the right kind. Calendered vinyl is what you would use. The other type is Cast vinyl.
Ken

dumorian

My Feedback: (6)

The CRRC Pro 40cc is about 3.5" from center of crank to outside of muffler. For certain, it is over 3". As the cowling is about 6" inside, the standard muffler won't work. The engine is an awesome engine! I have had fantastic service out of mine. Great power per cc and way lighter than a 50 or even 45cc as it is just under 3 pounds. It's a real sweet spot in the market. I have looked high and low and haven't had any success in finding a wrap around muffler until coming across Jtec. The website did read like a custom muffler was the same price as any of their advertised mufflers. I guess this means that the design is the same, just the mount is customized. Jtec has a fantastic reputation for their models. As mentioned above, and as I would expect, it seems their quality carries over into their mufflers as well. Yeah, it's a bit tough to put $80 into a muffler for a $250 dollar engine, but I chose this engine because of its specs, the price was just a huge bonus. Do note, that this engine is normally sold as a kit, so watch as you will need to do the assembly. It's an easy job and gives you the chance to look things over internally as you go. About the only thing I could gripe about with it, is the prop washer only has the central nut, so you'll have to be careful to really clamp it down. It might be just a bit on the edge of the power range to not have the additional mounting bolts like I see on most all 50cc engines. I did get a backfire pop on one startup which did loosen the prop, but I heard it and realized what had happened and checked the nut which had loosened just a bit. I guess a person could drill and tap a few holes if they wanted to.

The carb stack on the 40cc will for sure need to stick out of the cowling. The engine does have a black plastic velocity stack. To me, this looks really cool sticking out! I haven't really measured closely to see it any more of the carb will need to stick out. If you want to go down this path of getting a custom muffler, I'll do more measuring for you.

I have also been in touch with one of the importers of this engine. He is also looking for a wraparound for this engine. Likely something from China which should fall into the $25-$40 range. So far no word about any success. This is why I started my search. The difficulty with the 40cc is the manifold bolts are at the corners of the rectangular port whereas most engines have them centered at the ends of the rectangular port.

dumorian

My Feedback: (6)

Apparently it's a lot like the Cub in that it has a lot of wind drag and just slows down easily and flies slowly. From what I've read, the model is like this as well and really doesn't need flaps. Me? Well, I'm doing it for several reasons. One is the model will do tug service. Some gliders launch at really slow speeds. Adding a bit of flaps on the Decathlon should help it get off the ground a bit faster if needed.

Another reason... I don't plan to fly it 'scale' either. I like to put a plane through it's paces. I'll do a full span aileron setup on my radio and should be able to roll it pretty quickly. It also can help with things like flat spins and such... if it will do one at all. I like to play! And, then on those times where it might be needed, I'll have flaps... might even try crow with it, to pretty much just drop it straight down out of the sky without picking up much or any speed. I perhaps should call these ailerons 2 instead of flaps as I plan to set them up to move up or down just like the ailerons. I'm not planning to get a lot of travel down... 45 degrees with respect to the wing would be plenty to suit me.

dumorian

My Feedback: (6)

Well.... as I was doing final checks to get a CRRC 40cc, I ran across a slightly used Brillelli 36cc. It already has the Pitts wrap around on it, so I picked that up instead. Performance, weight and such are supposed to be much alike... just a little heavier and just a little less power. It should do a really good job in the Decathlon. Unfortunately Brillelli is out of business, but it is based on a Poulan engine, so I should be able to get some items for it if I get in a pinch.

So, I guess I don't need to work out the details for the CRRC 40cc anymore.

dumorian

My Feedback: (6)

After a few days off... it turns out that a bad cold and the slightest whiff of CA fumes don't get along at all! I tonight finally got back to my second wing. Got the bottom sheeting all done. Yeehaaa! There's something about the second wing. It's almost like doing something over. The good part is you don't have to study as hard. So, it sits on the building board drying.

Next will be cutting out the servo holes, trimming and sanding the sheeting flush all the way around and then I can start on my leading edges... or the 'Finishing the Wings' section. And I'm not going to be like most of you. I'm going ahead with the wing tips just as soon as the leading edge is done. I have this fear that the outer rib will get broken where it hanging out there at the aileron bay. I figure getting those wing tips done will prevent any damage and not leave one of the hard tasks to the very end.

I ordered what should be the last few bits for this plane today. A couple more rolls of covering... some brass 8-32 inserts for the strut attachment... the pull-pull system and a few more odds and ends.

I'm really anxious to do some covering, but I guess it would be a good idea to fit the wings to the fuse before covering, just in case any sanding needs to be done on the trailing edge or in the dowel area. OH crud... and those fillers where the wings hit the fuse! That settles it. Going to have to go forward with the fuse before pulling out the iron. It's tempting to do the tail feathers, but it seems they can be covered with leftovers from the other areas and might save needing yet more covering by waiting.

I've been reading too many build threads... now was this one of the models that needs the LG mount beefed up or was it just the weak LG itself that was the issue? I do have some baltic birch ply coming. I might have to do a bit there either way I go. I do plan to use another LG leftover from.... well.... a crash. It has an aluminum L that was mounted on the inside. I might just incorporate this into the Decathlon. I'm not too worried about weight as I'll have plenty of power. I do expect this LG will add maybe 4 or 6 ounces to the model. It's a little taller, a little wider and is made of a phenolic material of some kind. I have field tested it finding it to be really tough! []

OK... that's it for today!

EL TEMUCANO

THEES WEEKEND ON PUERTO VARAS , CHILE

AERONCA, 3 MTS, 60cc

dumorian

My Feedback: (6)

Nice tug! I hope to do that with my SD.

I just finished the shaping of the wing leading edges. I now need to clean up the trailing edge to match the plans and to make sure both sides match up correctly. And then... ta dah.... I get to do the wing tips!

I plan to do the bulk of this work with my bench top belt sander. This is one of those units that has a 1" belt running vertically and has a little table upon which to rest your work. The table is a tilting table.

I'm thinking I can use the tilting table to work around the tips creating initially some facets around the perimeter which should sand out easily.

I first plan to cut and sand the tips to the traced out profile (actually, just a bit oversize). Then I'll scribe marks, perhaps in 1/4" increments around the perimeter, imagine concentric rings on a tree... on the end of the tip. I can then tilt my sanding table an appropriate amount and sand to the next mark/ring. This will leave a flat area between the root end and this new sanded facet. I can then tilt the table a bit more and sand to the next mark/ring, creating the next facet. Each ring is an increase in the tilt, tapering it to the tip... only in facets. Then I can just sand it until those facets become smooth curves which will be very easy as the high spots naturally sand down the fastest.

I'll be sure to let everyone know if this really works out. I hope I explained it in a way that folks understand what the heck I'm talking about.

I do plan to leave a flat area on the end of the tip, perhaps about 1/2" at the widest point. This will give me a place to put a piece of covering, which can overlap a bit. I'm thinking this will help a lot with getting a smooth covering job on the top and bottom of the wings.

This whole process is going to be extremely dusty. I don't know if I want to carry my camera into that mess or not. If it's not too bad, I'll get some pics.

dumorian

My Feedback: (6)

After looking at the plans again, I realized that the shape of the wing tips was not even. Much more was to be removed from the bottom than the top. I did my cencentric marks anyway and they proved to be useful in shaping it all and matching the profile from tip to tip. I would recommend some sort of marking patterns on the ends before shaping. It really does help. I was able to use the tilting table to rough in the bottom of the tips. I was also able to use it to create a very neat front curved angle.

Then it was off to the balsa plane... It really didn't take me that long to have it roughed in. A bit of sanding and they are now just glued to the wings. I will need to sand more as I roughed them in just a bit oversize. I can now form them to exactly fit the profile of the wings. I have somewhere between 1/16" and 1/32" overhangs around the perimeter. I think I have maybe two hours into these.

I did leave a flat area on the ends of the tips. It is basically shaped like a smaller version of the wing profile. At the widest point, it's about 3/4" wide. I'll first cover these flat areas, overlapping onto the curves a bit. This should make covering a lot easier. I'm really happy with how they look and also happy to be past what seems to be the most dreaded part of this build.

All that is lacking on the wings now is of course sanding in the tips, a bit more sanding on the sheeting, sanding at the root ends so the sheeting matches up well and just a tiny bit of sanding on the root ribs to get a better fit between the two wings.

Next... building the ailerons and flaps while those tips are drying. You know, I think I should actually hop over onto the fuse now. There's going to be some time while epoxy is drying which could be filled with aileron and flap building. I was mostly wanting to get those tips on just to protect that outer rib. I think I'd like to have the wings available... they're clamped right now.... to get a better fit and such on the control surfaces.

This sure is a fun build so far!

homme de fer

Gentleman,

I started on my Dynaflite Decathlon this past weekend and my question is regarding engine size (again).

I also want to fly this plane in a decidedly un-scale like manner. I was looking at the CRRC 40 (for which I would need a custom muffler), a CRRC 45 which comes with a Pitts wrap around, or maybe even a DL50.

Has anyone tried any of these engines in the plane? If so, what kind of aerobatic performance have been able to get out of them? How much cutting was needed to get these engines in the cowl?

Thanks for the input,

Marc

djr1007

Since your going to make full length ailerons for roll rate, have you or anyone else thought about doing a "Clipped wing" SD? My SD is next up on the table and I've been toying with that idea, just leaving out the last bay. Any thoughts?

dumorian

My Feedback: (6)

I never considered doing a clip wing due to wanting this to be used as a glider tug. Some gliders come off the ground quickly, and I may need to get some altitude quickly as well. In fact, that was the main consideration for doing the flaps. I can add a bit of flap and lift off much faster.

As for doing the full span ailerons, well, that's just a bonus! When I want to do 'slow' playing, as this model will never match what my 3d planes can do, the full span ailerons will let me enjoy a faster roll. There's other 'odd' things you can do as well. Like set up camber with a good bit of down available... again, full span. And this is something to for sure do at 6 mistakes high... but you can do down deflection on ailerons/flaps and full up deflection on the elevator and get some really odd loops with power on, or play around a bit to almost stop the plane in mid air with throttle down. Of course it then falls out! So, this is why I've been looking over what I think are the weak areas and adding some bits to make them stronger. So far, that has been triangle stock in the corners around the box where the dowels go and adding the extra cross bracing to my strut blocks in the wings. When I get to that part in the fuse, I'll make sure it's plenty strong as well. I most likely will not be using the threaded inserts into the ends of the struts but instead have plans to screw straps to the sides of them. Shear strength instead of pull strength.

So, after my last post, where I was heading off to do the fuse...... First I jumped over to that section in the manual and started reading. This was interrupted by sorting through the rest of the parts to identify what I would be using where. Generally just getting a feel for how it went together. Then I started contemplating my engine installation. Figuring out how to glue the sub firewall and getting those parts ready. The Brillelli 36cc engine mount is almost precisely the same width as the recommended mounting points for the firewall. So, I'm in a bit of a dilemma with how I'm going to do that. Something is going to have to be moved a bit. It would be much stronger to do it the way the manual says, with the two wooden firewalls bolted together at the outer points. It would be really easy to do this backwards... engine bolted to the outer portion, firewalls in the inner area but I'm seeing that as inviting firewall failure. So, I'm looking it all over. I also have one of those Great Plane Large Engine Isolation mounts. I got it for this plane. WOW that system is heavy! Anyway, I'm at this point thinking of locating the bolts a bit further out than recommended. I will likely need to cut a new slightly larger firewall and then placing four of these rubber grommets between the two. The one thing I really worry about with this is the possibility of it loosening over time. So, I plan to put nylock nuts inside snugged down against the t-nuts. No way that can come loose. I can then not feel like I need to cinch it all down as tightly against the rubber. I'm hoping this will really make a big difference in model vibration.

Anyway... I wound up killing a lot of time studying up on all of this which allowed plenty of time for my wingtip glue to dry. So, after getting ready, it was a good time to get back onto the wings. At this point, the tips are sanded to the profile of the wing. I do want to spend a bit more time sanding just a little more off the bottom of the tips and generally matching them up one final time. I'm going to put off doing this until covering time. So if I manage to dent one a bit, it can still be sanded out or filled and sanded.

I then jumped onto ailerons and flaps. I just tonight finished gluing the last sheeting onto the ailerons. The flaps are finished. All I lack on these now is shaping the V into the leading edge, drilling for hinges and then deciding on what type of control horn I'm going to use and if I need to cut in that hard insert which replaces the sheeting under the control horn. I think I'll then be able to set the wings aside until they're needed during the fuse build.

I di epoxy my sub firewall together... along with epoxying two breaks of the four pieces of a coffee mug handle. The better half has gotten really good at breaking mug handles and has learned to save the bits for me. Epoxy works great on ceramics! LOL!!! Got to score points where you can in this hobby.

Anyway, I was contemplating how to glue these all together and keep them from sliding all over the place. I first thought I'd just glue two together at a time. Then I thought about pinning them. So, I held and clamped the first two together and stuck two small modeling pins through them. I backed the points out to flush and added the third part, then pushed the pins on through that one. I then took those two off the pins. I looked over at my epoxy... 5 minute or 30 minute. I've always heard 30 minute was stronger than 5 minute. I guess maybe the wetness can penetrate the wood for a bit longer? So, I chose 30 minute. Mixed up a large batch and using a flux brush coated the first part, lined up the pins with the second part, slide it on.... coated the exposed side of that second part and then slid the third part on over the pins. It of course aligned perfectly. I didn't have epoxy all over my fingers from feeling around the edges and I wasn't worried about it slipping around as I added the clamps. This is the point where I did the coffee mug handle and also threw into the mix the tail wheel mounting parts. I was surprised that as I finished up the tailwheel parts, the epoxy started to set in the cup! The mug handle and these parts didn't take but maybe two minutes. The firewall went together really fast.... spreading that much glue was not so fast. I'm thinking a person would get into trouble if they tried to use the 6 minute epoxy which was recommended in the manual. I believe you would only have time to put two firewall parts together per mixing.

So, this was the last of the work I had planned to do tonight, which is good because the epoxy needs a fairly long cure time. Tomorrow night it will be totally cured. Time to switch out my plan sheets on the building board! I guess it's still a good idea to leave a bit of work to do on the wings to fill any glue drying time while building the fuse.

kwhite.6

I can relate with the coffee mug handle. After my wife saw my glue collection she thinks I can fix anything. I got my cowl from Fiberglass Specialties yesterday and it looks really good. I was also surprised that it only took 5 days from the day I order till I received it, great service! I'm still working on the wing but I did glue the stock cowl together and I think my Fuji 43 EI will fit with the stock muffler. If it will then I am going to use it in the decathlon and get a 50cc for my ultimate. It seems there is not a big selection of 30cc engines available. You got any pics? We all like pictures.

dumorian

My Feedback: (6)

There does seem to be a big hole between 26cc and 50cc. Yes, there are some options out there, but just not very many. I had been looking at Evolution... very nice products in that 3Xcc size. I was about to order one when they introduced a version 2 or something. They were not yet in stock and the one available was apparently to be discontinued. I hate to buy something new that's already listed as discontinued, especially in the price range of the Evo engines. It was at this point that I ran across the CRRC 40cc in the ads here. I spent a good bit of time comparing various products. The 40cc is one of the lightest weighing just a bit more than most 26cc engines, or just under 3 pounds. It is in the 'cheap' price range. The EI has worked fine, but it's not one of the tip of the line units. And the muffler is just that... the one choice. But, one could still do one of these, buy a custom muffler and get a really high end EI unit and still be under $400 total.... much less than the Evo which does not come with a muffler. That was why I went with that engine for my EF Yak 54 74. And the darned thing just does everything perfectly and consistently. I guess gas on models is still a little bit new. As time passes I suspect we'll have many more options. It seems that the smaller gas category is building quickly as I'm seeing a lot of new engines around 20cc. This makes sense as there are a lot more models in that size range. There also seems to be a full span of gassers both existing and new in the 50cc and up range, which I guess answers the problem of not that many glow engines that can do the job. I'm betting we will continue to have more options across the board.

I was thinking I should start the cowling myself. As another of my half cocked ideas.... something I'm thinking about 'very' early on without yet really looking at the parts...... I plan to consider only gluing together two of the cowling parts and maybe screwing the third part in place. This might allow for better wrapping of some of the engine parts without as much cutting. My early thoughts are that the bottom part would be separate. Then again, in actuality, this might not be possible.

Very nice getting the fiberglass cowling. I haven't ruled that out... just being hard headed at the moment. If nothing else, I should wind up with a good pvc pattern to use to make the cuts on a fiberglass cowling! It would be nice to have it at least taped together to look at how the Brillelli will fit. I could pretty easily check it to my 40cc CRRC as well.

As I'm at the 'plan changing' phase again... this is normally when I do a clean up of the work area, it would be a decent time to take some pictures. I'll see what I can do about that.

EL TEMUCANO

MANY TIMES I HAVE READ THAT YOU WILL PUT ENGINES 40 - 50 cc heavy weight. FLIGHT STATUS WILL NO CHANGE?
I will put a Super TIGRE G 2300 THE WEIGHT IS ABOUT 2 LB. LESS THAN GAS ENGINES. WHAT ABOUT THAT????

PLEASE,,,,, SORRY WHIT MY ENGLISH

(DUMORIAN, YOU WRITTE SO MUCH, YOU KNOW HOW MUCH TIME I USED TO TRANSLATE??????????????????????? JEJEJEJE Continues, soon I learn much English)

teeceeveecee

dumorian:

The EVO line of engines from Horizon are actually MVVS, as I am sure you are aware. I have several EVO/MVVS engines. The 26cc GX and the 1.44 twin glow with Walbro carb, I sold the twin because it was a little thirsty. They are great engines but expensive. Inside they look like a fine watch. I also have a CRRC 50cc that runs beautifully and is strong as a horse. For the money I don't believe you can do better. The EVO's are purpose built which is why I bought the 26GX, no carb hanging on the side and it fits completly inside my 120 Tiger Moth cowl.

In the mid-range, 30+ cc, I have a 34cc Fuji in my Aeromaster at 19.3 lbs. A little heavier engine but it is top drawer and strong, also the fact that I was able to get it with magneto vs CDI. I prefer the magneto engines.

My Decathlon will use a 34cc Fuji, I also have a 26cc Fuji that I may try first, it swings a 18 X 6 at about 6500/6600 RPM which for the way I fly will be more than enough.

Just a view from another angle.

Best,

E T

dumorian

My Feedback: (6)

Temucano.... if you keep reading my posts, you will learn English pretty fast, not that my writing is a great example of proper grammar. I do get a bit long winded (American slang for talking a lot).

Teecee.... I totally respect your preference for magneto, but my preference is the EI engines. Too many bouts will old tech magneto systems from too many years ago. And the bonus of less weight. I am really happy to see Fuji offering the EI engines as well now. That really opens up a lot of new choices for me. I don't have a lot of experience with gassers, but they seem to have a really great reputation.

As for CRRC, from what I've read, it seems like they got off to a rocky start with a batch or two of engines that had problems. This company however seems to actually listen to the market and do the few things to improve the product. This seems to be rare with the Chinese components, unless they are held to a very high standard by a good company who has contracted the work. Great prices are fantastic... but cheap products suck. Hitting that magic spot with quality/price is not very easy.

Like you say about your EVOs... built like a fine watch, but it does show in the price. I have an urge to buy one just because they're so pretty! I'd want to build a glass case and display it on the coffee table! I might have to build the case large enough to hold a nice Saito 4 stroke glow... another work of art.

beepee

A key to your engine selection will be balance. With mine, I gained nothing with a light weight engine as it came out quite tail heavy. Everybody's construction styles and final results will vary. That was just my experience. I also had a problem with any prop over 18" diameter ... in case you were thinking of putting some REAL power in the nose.

Have fun!

Bedford

stevo revo

Just thought I'd share a few more pics of my build. Now you can see the finished wing mounting and top hatch with sky light. I still have alot of work to do before I can even think of getting to covering. I've pretty much tossed the instructions aside and have bee winging it............ into uncharted territory...... he he!!