drube

Here's a pic showing what's going on. If it's supposed to be level then the w4,w5 and w6 ribs spar slots were not cut deep enough. Bummer! The spar is fully seated in the ribs. What should I do? Contact GP?

WILDCRASHWILLY

Go to post 1247 on page 50. That's what page it shows on this kindle. It looks like you forgot to taper your spar. The picture on post 1247 shows the taper just past the 5th rib from ctr. I wish I had taken a better pic of that step but didn't until I already had the spar boxed but you can see the taper sticking just outside the shear webbing.

Also, it looks like you may have already glued your spar. Never glue anything until you have test fitted the Pc. If you have glued, it's not the end of the world but you'll. Have a pretty big job separating the parts and repairing the mistakek. Don.'t stress., just take a deep breath and resolve yourself to correct it. We have all made mistakes when building from kits or plans. That's. How we learn. Called the school of hard knocks.

I.'m not sure that's. You issue but from what I can tell on your picture it looks to be the case.

HANNG IN THERE AND DON'T. GET DISCOURAGED. YOU'LL. GET IT!

drube

Thanks Bill, I did sand/taper the spar doubler on the last two inches as the manual says. I did it to the wrong sticks... I guess i'll need to order the right wing parts including the spar and doubler.

WILDCRASHWILLY

Before I would take the time to order it. I would run to the nearest hobby shop and just pick up two sticks of each of the two sizes. I think it's. Just bass wood. If you have already done both wings, you'll need four of each. Taper the narrow piece and glue to the thicker piece. Take the measurements from the old ones before you go. If you don't. Have a local hobby shop you can get it a a Hobby Lobby store but take care to get bass wood or Spruce as there is a lot of stress on spars during flight and manuvers.

Good luck and don't get discouraged. Just a temporary set back that's all.
I got my new spinner yesterday but I'll. Have to cut the notches wider to fit my propeller. After that all I like is some baffeling and painting on my cowl and I'll. Be ready to run.

dumorian

My Feedback: (6)

Yes. I looked over my plans and made careful decisions about how to cut them up and tape the pieces together. Not uncommon on the larger scale stuff. I found that using a pencil to lightly draw out the cut lines was a good idea. Things like notes are the hardest to watch. It's a good idea to keep the note with the portion of the plan that the note goes with or you might be putting together a puzzle later. And, as those notes are put anywhere close, once you are done cutting, the pieces start to look a lot like puzzle parts!

The bad thing. You have a bunch of pieces of plans instead of complete nice sheets. The good thing. You can work on many different bits of the model at the same time without interference with what used to be something adjoining on the original plan layout.

I'm doing a Merlyn at the moment and that set of plans got sliced and diced and taped into a LOT of new working plans.

Yes, the wings are both identical mirrors. Yes the spars are flat. Be sure you do understand the washout before you start building. That was a new method for me on this model. That dotted angled piece that runs behind the spar. It creates the angle change from root to tip and to me, once I figured out what it did, it was the cleanest method I have seen for doing this.

Happy Thanksgiving!

WILDCRASHWILLY

Drube,

I was just thinking (a dangerous thing indeed), you might want to pick up a few 3 X 36 inch balsa sheets in case you break a rib beyond repair during the spar removal. That way you can trace out the old rib on the sheet of balsa, take an xacto knife and cut you a new rib. Not sure if I remember the rib thickness but I think the balsa will need to be 3/32 thick. You better measure it to make sure as I'm not positive about the thickness.
Infact, if you have only done one wing half., get enough balsa sheets to cut out all the ribs for that half and use the ribs from the other wing half as a template. Remember all the ribs are not the same notch wise so use the right rib from the other wing for the correct position on the wing half you are remaking.
It might be easier to just remake it vs repair since you did.not get far enough to sheet prior to discovering the issue.

Hope this makes sense. This kindle sometimes changes words onnme and I don't. Always catch it.


Just a thought.

drube

Thanks Bill, I'm going to try and cut out the spars then head to my LHS for the needed wood. If that don't work i'll just order the parts needed. No biggie, Just a litte set back. This is my forth kit build so it was bound to happen..lol I only did the right wing so less repair will be needed.
Dumorian, Thanks for the plans help. This is the first time doing this method.
Happy Thanksgiving!

WILDCRASHWILLY

Drube,

Sounds like a plan.

I hope everyone in the U.S. has a great Thanksgiving day.

Red_Jeepster

Wow! 67 pages in this thread. Well I have my SD kit coming on tuesday! I was reading from the beginning ans somehow on page 14 I ended up here at the end - oops.
Anyway I have a ton of reading to do to catch up. Looking forward to my build!!!

WILDCRASHWILLY

Jeepster and Drubbed.,

Glad to see you guys tackle it. It's a good build. Watch the instructions though, they are a little confusing at places. I recommend you read this thread in it's entirety. Cruzmissile., Mrqs, and others have placed a lot of good information and mods on here.

What do you guys plan to power your models with?

WILDCRASHWILLY

Cruzmissile started this thread back in 2004. I wonder if he had any idea how successful this thread was going to be.

beepee

drube,

It will happen on your 40th build too. The only thing is you will be much more experienced in dealing with it! Well, that is my experience anyway.

Have fun with it!

Bedford

Red_Jeepster

I'm planning a 30cc gas for mine. I also plan to modify the wing mount by changing the fuse shape to include the wing. I've been building for 35+ years so it wont be real difficult. I also intend for candy drop ability.

WILDCRASHWILLY

Red,

30cc should work great. This plane should be a work horse. Many guys are useing it for glider tow. If you keep your bomb bay on the cg you'll probably be able to haul a couple lbs at a time.

I have a SPAD Debonair that I've used for candy drops. It will lift off with about a lb in the bay I installed on it under the cg. I have no problems now BUT,,, the first time I dropped I was unprepared for the instant reduction in weight. The plane shot skyward so fast I initially lost control and had to complete an unintended loop to regain and keep control. Needless to say, since that first learning event I now stay ready on the elevator as the load drops and have no issues. It made me wonder what the WWII vets felt as they dropped from the B17's during their bombing raids in combat.

WILDCRASHWILLY

Drube,

Sorry, I forgot you and I already talked about your engine and I agree, you made a good choice as well. I've made a few posts in the last couple days and my sometimers kicked in. Sometimes I remember but most of the time I don't unless I write it down. My memory was terrible when I was young so it catistrophic now. I have to use a daytimer in my job to keep up with anything.
Oh well the price of getting older I guess. It could always be worse and I not remembernmy name.

drube

No problem Bill, I plan to use a dle 30.
Bedford, Thanks for the encouragement.. One day I will be able to say I built 40 planes! lol

drube

Thinking of the future, i'm trying to decide on a paint sceme. I really like mRqS's plane and the full scale version. What does ACRO and DAC stand for? I'm also thinking about going with neon green instead of the yellow.

Zor

Hi "drube",

ACRO refers to wing type aircrafts (as compared to helicopters).
On more elaborate radios you may have "sailplanes or gliders" but they are basically ACRO.

DAC means "Digital to Analog Converter".
You may also see ADC for the reverse; Analog to Digital Converter.

Zor

Edited . . . "concerter" changed to "converter".

drube

Thanks Zor.

Red_Jeepster

In my latest Senior Telemaster I arranged the fuselage so there was nothing between the bulkheads below the wing. This gave me a HUGE cargo area which held 104 ping-pong balls!!! I also hauled a ton of candy. When I dropped the candy it was at slow & low so never had much trouble with altitude change...HOWEVER... I can't tell you how many times I nearly lost it because my eyes wanted to watch the candy/balls/parachuter fall to the ground. You'd think I would learn!;;Ha Ha
Anyway, I intend to clear out the biggest part of the fuselage for cargonon this build.

WILDCRASHWILLY

Well guys,

I tried to upload new pictures of the Decath tonight but RCU is up to their old server 500 error again. Havn't seen that one for several months. They liked to never got working last time, hope they are faster this time.

WILDCRASHWILLY

Tried again, still servor 500 error at RCU. I'll try again tomorrow night.

WILDCRASHWILLY

Pictures of the cowl finished and primed, ready for paint.

second picture of windshield and side glass. BTW: I have smudges of RC56 on the side window and have not been able to get them off. I have tried a cloth buffer wheel on the dremil with little success. I have also rubbed it with denatured alcohol on one of the panes. This did seem to help but clouded the plastic slightly so I'm afraid to try it on the other areas. Any suggestions would be helpful.

Thanks

WILDCRASHWILLY

These three pictures are of the tail wires I used. 2-56 rod with threaded clevis on one end and soldered 2-56 clevis on the other. Used the flying wires as recommended due to my engine being oversized for this model.

WILDCRASHWILLY

These six pictures are of the True Turn spinner that I had to modify to fit my propeller. I had to cut the slots larger to accomadate the large blade shafts on the spinner. I took my time with a Dremil and a sanding drum and it worked out pretty well. I still have to put the spinner on my Dubro balancer and check it as I'm sure it needs to be balanced. I was careful with my measurements but I know the balance is probably off now and will require a little tweeking.