miamiflyer

My Feedback: (1)

Hi all,
finished sheeting the contender's wing, went really well and onto sanding I picked
up the wing by the sheeted surface and popped a hole in it with one finger, oh maaan!
seams to me that the balsa is really soft and has to be handled like a raw egg.
Anyone with a good solution to fix the hole and strengthen the sheeting?
Shearwebs are not in yet so there is access from the inside.
cheers!

hattend

My Feedback: (20)

Cut a larger, rectangular hole in there that exposes the ribs on both sides. Glue in a rectangular piece that fills the hole. sand smooth. Easy!

If you want to make it really pretty, bevel the edges of the hole and the patch 45 degrees

Don

BTW: The only way to make the sheeting stronger is to use a heavier grade of wood. Just be careful handling the wing until it's covered and after covering, always grab the wing with two hands so you don't have to grasp it so hard.

CafeenMan

If it were me, I would remove the sheeting, sand off the glue and do it over. But that's me. If you want to repair it then you need to make the hole that can be filled more easily.

MinnFlyer's suggestion is very sound. Another way is to get some scraps about 1/2" wide and glue them under the sheeting as ledges for the new sheeting. Align the grain of the ledges to match the existing sheeting so that it won't change the curve of the wing. Sort of like I did on this page:

http://airfieldmodels.com/information_source/how_to_articles_for_model_builders/construction/repair_a_model_aircraft/repairing_thwing!/04.htm

Look at the second photo to see what I mean.

By the way, if you remove the sheeting what you should do is cut it away between the ribs first. Then use a knife to cut into the sheeting on the rib. Don't try to cut it completely away from the rib. Put the blade in the middle of the grain from the side and take off as much as possible, but stay above the glue line. Then use a good sanding block to sand away the rest of the sheet and the glue. I know that sounds confusing. Hopefully you can figure out what I'm trying to say.

Or you can bring it by my shop and I'll show you what I'm talking about.

miamiflyer

My Feedback: (1)

thanks guys,
I really don't want to do it over, don't have stock anymore and losing time.
i still have the 2 pieces that broke out there and they fit perfectly if i connect them
from the inside.
i could piece it together and glue a ledge under it to support like cafeenman suggested.
i have some micro fill from nhp in balsa color to spread over and sand.
hope it doesn't screw up my chrome covering job.[&o]

I would love to come by your shop and ask you a thousand questions.
but you're safe, too far away from ft lauder.

cheers!

CafeenMan

OK, I'll buy all your arguments except the one about time. Assume this plane will last a long time. Saving a couple hours to build a plane that isn't as good isn't good economics.

But, my way won't make the plane lighter or fly better. It's just me being anal retentive. Chrome is the worst color for showing defects in the wood work, so whatever you do, take the time to sand everything perfectly flush. You may need to fill more than once.

I have no idea how far Ft. Lauderdale is from here but you're still welcome to stop by if you're ever in the area.

dicknadine

its down with the mega $$ in Hurriane alley. suggest using some of his residual balsa sanding dust to fill in any cracks. also he shud be getting aquainted the flyers/clubs in that area-- there are at least 2 that I have heard about. some of them know some of the tricks of the trade. dick

CafeenMan

Dick - two of the hurricanes came through my front yard - literally. By the time they got here they were downgraded to tropical storms. I did what any responsible person would do... lit lots of candles and started working on my airboat. (yes, that's really what I did).

Blow n Go

I wish I could consistently find balsa that light. Granted, it is difficult to maintain, but makes for a very light plane. Once you patch, brush a coat of nitrate dope over the entire model. It stiffens but adds almost no extra weight. The covering will also hold it together enough to prevent poking your finger through it accidentally. Keep in mind that full scale planes are just as fragile..........you have to handle them gingerly.

CJ

miamiflyer

My Feedback: (1)

ok ok ok
losing time was not really ment to be important, I still have to build the fuselage and wait
for the J'EN 56 to be delivered.
but yeah, i got lot's of balsa dust to fill it in.
i cut and resheeted between the ribs, looks ok and will look better once i
get the LE in place and sand it all down. gosh, this kit has sanding jobs
galore.
blowglow, i didn't know about nitrate dope but bought a can of balsarite conditioner
maybe it's the same stuff. supposed to make balsa wood fuelproof and easier to stick
to the covering.

TRobison

I have a question about the JEN .56 in this plane I will be building a contender this winter and was looking at the same engine. I know very little about rc engines and only own a magnum .46 in my PT-40. How do they compare?

Thanks Tim

d_bodary

My Feedback: (85)

I don't know if balsarite is the same as Nitrate dope. But either one will work. The only thing you need to watch out for is if you iron down the covering and make a mistake.With the balsarite it will not want to peel off. I do not know if nitrate does that or not. Maybe someone else will.

miamiflyer

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Tim,
here's the link if you haven't already found it.
http://www.justengines.unseen.org/Jen.htm
Mine came after 4 days! very nicely packaged.
i can't compare it to your engine, but I gotta tell you....what a sexy engine!
I broke it in last weekend and mounted it on my PT-40 trainer to have it fully broken in when
it goes in the contender.
all i can say is : wow! trainer on steroids. didn't even have to shift weight much.
it'll pull vertical until you can't see it anymore
hovers the pt-40 at 3/4 throttle and it's not fully broken in yet. this is one heck of a screamer trainer now.
the guy who broke it in on a test stand was really impressed. it started on the first flip
and still does, nicely tight fit ( you can't turn it over by hand without the prop attached)
the standard silencer it came with looks more like a pipe, throttle response is very good.
I had 10 minutes runtime on a 12 oz tank (the 4th tank).
I'll order another for my next project, a morris balsanova 40.
all the contender needs is a hot 40-46 and the jen is alot more than that with the same weight and
dimensions. no need for a 61.

2slow2matter

My Feedback: (1)

Miami, what does that price come to in US $$? Shipping and all. What will that set me back? I really like the sound of it all!!!!

hattend

My Feedback: (20)

Convert it here: http://www.xe.com/ucc/

Exchange Rates are updated daily

Don

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Blow, you can get some very light/lite balsa from Lone Star Balsa. I have made up some Up-Roars with the stuff so light you would think they were gliders. Talk about sticking your finger through the wood though. After sanding I could read through the stuff.