Hello All,
Need some help please...I have a Telemaster 40 with a 4" dyhedral wing / rubberband wing mount. Any suggestions on how to convert to "bolt on wings". I have an idea of how to bolt on the wings center trailing edge but securng the leading edge at the fuse is a little fuzzy. Thanks.

Usually a 1/4 inch dowell is installed, in the wing, 90 deg. to the leading edge in the center extending about 5/16. Then a structure, attached to the fuselage, needs to be made for it, to extend into, usually plywood with a 1/4 inch hole in the center. If this is confusing enough, then procede.

Will 30min epoxy be ok for the dowel or does resin/fiberglass cloth need to be applied?

It depends. But first, I would drill through the LE all the way into the wing joiner, and anchor the dowels into the joiner with epoxy.

If there is a plywood brace behind the LE at the seam, AND your dowels go through it, you'll be fine.

BUT, if there's only Balsa, and/or you don't know what's behind the LE, I'd fiberglass it - otherwise, the weight could rip the dowels right through the Balsa LE - Remember, those dowels are the ONLY thing holding the front of the wing on, and the front is where 90% of the stress is.

Minnflyer:
The wings (4" dihedral) were fiberglassed together so I guess I would be drilling through the root ribs. If I decided to fiberglass the dowel, will it still stick to the previously fiberglassed surface?

If the center section is already FG'd you should be OK, but as I said earlier, drill all the way into the wing joiner, those dowels need a good firm anchor.

I appreciate the info, thanks!

Not being totally familiar with the Telemaster, you may want to look at the way the Ugly Stick mounts it's wing. If there is a solid fuseladge wall to attach to you can also use wing bolts on the leeding edge as well. I have used this method on other planes with solid walls to attach to with good success. I use bamboo sticks to help to fasten the bolt blocks to the side wall for added durability and use the White Glue a lot as I have found that it attaches to wood the best.
Stick Flyer

Not much of a wall on the center leading edge. The center leading edge just butts against a small lip above a false windscreen. I would have to sand that down some and add a block of hardwood. Rubberbands are starting not to looks so bad.

There's no sin in keeping the rubber bands. Modifying some planes for bolts is a relatively easy task, but for others, it's a BIT@H!

Better to stick with rubber than run the risk of losing your wing in mid flight (Well... it will actually happen very close to the end of the flight)

Minnflyer's right. No crime to keep the rubber bands.

I have seen exactly 4 high wing trainers converted to bolts - two Aerostars, one Falcon something, and an Eagle II. Each one had aileron servo travel interference, with the wood bosses for the bolts. The wing would set in place and bolt down okay, but the new wood bosses would interfere with servo travel.

Three of the planes were lost due to wing mounting failure. Two had bolts pull out of the new bosses. One had the new front dowel capture feature pull out.

When students ask me about changing to bolt-on, I advise them to just keep on flying the trainer as is, and apply their building efforts to a plane designed with bolt-on wings.

Best wishes,
Dave Olson

Very well put Dave