Mustang1964

Hello Smalley46:
I am using Hitec servos.
Mustang1964

smalley46

anyones in particular mustang?

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

When I finally start mine (the kit and the main gear are here), I'll be using the Spektrum DX7 radio system (2.4GHz) It comes with four JR DS821 digital, high torque servos(72oz @4.8V). I think I'll use them all for the primary flight controls: (2)aileron, (1)rudder, and (1)elevator. I'll probably use a pair of HiTec HS-325HB for the flaps, and one of the for the throttle. For the retract valve, I have several unemployed HS-81MG micros that would work fine. I also have a 2200 mAh SR Batteries flight pack that's unemployed, and with all those servos sucking amps, I'm gonna use it for sure.

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

When I finally start mine (the kit and the main gear are here), I'll be using the Spektrum DX7 radio system (2.4GHz) It comes with four JR DS821 digital, high torque servos(72oz @4.8V). I think I'll use them all for the primary flight controls: (2)aileron, (1)rudder, and (1)elevator. I'll probably use a pair of HiTec HS-325HB for the flaps, and one of the for the throttle. For the retract valve, I have several unemployed HS-81MG micros that would work fine. I also have a 2200 mAh SR Batteries flight pack that's unemployed, and with all those servos sucking amps, I'm gonna use it for sure.

zope_pope

Man, a 2200mah battery, that is way huge. On my 50cc gasser I can get about 5 flights out of it (plenty of adrenaline there) and I am only using a 1950 mah battery. This is with a mini digital on the throttle, and 5985's all the way around (6v, and 180 oz in torque) on 2 elevators, two ailerons, one rudder. 3d flying mine you. :P Anyhow if anyone wants nice good cheap nimh or nicads, check out www.hangtimes.com. They have the best quality I have ever seen, very light packs, and Steve's a real good guy. If you have questions, send him an email. His phone hours are very sporadic. I swear by his packs. a 1400 elite nimh pack may be about the right size here, maybe still a tad big.

jeffk464

I'm using standard airtronics servos on all control surfaces and they fly it well, my battery is also the standard pack. The only thing that might require high torque would be the flaps, which I didnt build into my plane.

zope_pope

Hey Everyone,

I am right now trying to get my wing alignment perfect with the fuse, but i just can't seem to get it right. I have used the method in the instructions, but it keeps telling me that it is way off. I think the tail just isn't lining up perfectly when taping a piece of scrap wood back there. anyone have any nifty techniques they used?

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

Zope:

For a Mustang, I always centerline the bottom of the fuse, nose to tail, right after the decking is on, by measuring the actual thickness of the fuse at various points along its length, dividing it in half, and putting little dots along the way and connecting them all together.

First step is to get the fuse and wing bolted together, and then measure from the midpoint of the chord at the root where it joins the fuse, to the last rib or tip. If that distance isn't dead on equal, don't go any further, but redo the wing mounting until it is. If you have more wing sticking out one side than the other, you'll never get it right, and the plane will always have more lift on one side and will fly sh***y.

When I go to align the wing, I figure out some way of positioning or blocking up the fuse upside down so that it is perfectly 90 degrees (vertically and left right) to the building table, and I have enough room left and right so that the wingtips are above the table and not extending beyond it. (If my table's too small, I use the basement floor. It's flat enough for this kind of work.) If your vertical fin is already glued on, then you'll have to use it as your reference.

Bolt the wing in the saddle and measure straight down to the table from the same place on the tips. Before adjusting for differences, stick a pin in the tail right on the centerline, and use the hook of your tape measure on the pin, and measure to the same point on the TE of each wingtip. Thats how I measure it. Adjusting is a matter of shimming and/or sanding the saddle. It's a pain, but it works. If the tip to tail measurements are way off, it's sometimes necessary to hog out the wing bolt holes in the wing, and cheat it back and forth.

zope_pope

So you are saying drill the holes, bolt the wing, and then check the alignment? I am at the point where i got my wing sitting nicely in the saddle and I am trying to get the wing in place over the fuse so that when i drill the bolt holes the wing is perfectly aligned with the fuse (perpendicular).

It sounds like you are talking about the wing along the roll axis, as I am talking about the yaw axis (not correct terminology, but hopefully you get what i am trying to say.)

Maybe i am just confused?

Mustang1964

Hell All:
I am about to get the flap hardware done.
How much travel does the rod need to fully deploy the flaps?
My wife has a new digital camera. Once I get the flap hardware done I will try to post some pics.
Mustang1964

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

Zope:

If you haven't drilled the holes yet, then get the wing centered left to right like I described, then weight it down in the saddle so that it can't move around and get all your measurements.

sabre1205

Not much
Mine is about an inch or so but no more

skyriter

What are we most people using for bolts to attach the wing to the fuse? The 1/4 nylon or are some using steel bolts?

Bruce

Flying Beagle

I have been researching this thread and other sources to determine the various brands of Retracts that folks have selected for their 60 size Top Flite Mustangs. FWIW, Here are the results of what I found:

CJM................................10
Robart 605 .......................6
Robart 606 .......................1
Robart #?........................3
Spring Airs ......................2
Robart 551(830)..............3
Robart 531 ......................1
Robart 530 ......................1

Here are the “excerpts� from the users: (hope I have these captured correctly )

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2886581/tm.htm
Page 1 - Flight Hawk….. I installed Centry Jet Models in mine …
Page 1 - Blue_Moon_ …the model flies very well, mine's eqipped with Robart 605HD,….
Page 4 - p39…….. I've been flying myP-51 all summer. OS 120 w/ pump. Robart retracts….
Page 8 - intermidiot…….. I have not used any other retracts other then the robarts 605's…… and # 653L & 653R
Page 11 -BradSD ….. hoping to fit century retracts and a 1.2 OS FS.
Page 13 -m2…I’m using the cj retracts….
Page 13 -RCMustang……. I built this bad boy back in 1995…..I remember…..mounting the CJM retracts….
Page 13 - jamieduff1981…….. The CJM units ….made specifically for his kit, hence why I chose them….
Page 18 -asphalt252 ..…. gain you about 1/8" of an inch if you use the robart 605HDs…… .
Page 22 -Mustang1964…I have been working on the retracts. I have Century jets……
Page 23 - ticketec…….I have received the following items …..653R & 653L robostrut & 606HD 85deg Main…..
Page 27 -IL2windhawk ….I went for the CJM retracts with 3 3/4" wheels. ….
Page 34 -sabre1205 ….I used Robarts 605s and had to file out more where the rails are…
Page 34 -smalley46 ….I'm planning on using spring air 116 85 retracts and combining them with robart 7/16 robostruts 663L&R
Page 35 ExcaliburIII…… I am using Robarts series 830 85 degree retracts and Series 440 7/16" Robo struts. ……
Page 35 zope_pope ….I am using the 551rs and while they are ultra duty, you'll have not a fun time getting the retract to fit
Page 38 - Mustang Fever ……I sent the Robart 622s back to Tower, I ordered the 531RS with the 663 struts to replace them.
Page 38 - sabre1205 …..I am using the Robart 605 retracts with the 380 series 3/8" diameter struts and 3 1/4" wheels
Page 38 - bull51 …. I am using the robart 551rs, 85 degree…. with the 7/16 robart struts …..
Page 39 - saramos…… I will be using the Robart 530RS retracts and the 663R/L offset struts with 4" wheels
Page 40 - skyriter …..Using the Robarts 605 Retracts with 653R and 633L struts.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/product_gu...cfm?kit_id=130
(Jimbo952) I used centry jet retracts on mine.
(CRJDriver)Don't skimp and be sure to do this model justice with some Robart retracts. I outfitted mine with a hydra-loc actuator
(scottrc) I have had my P-51 for 11 years. OS 1.20, Robart air retracts,
(P47flyer) Review kit was equipped with Century Jet retracts.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...+flite+mustang
-As for retracts the Spring Air models seem to have a weight advantage on others and they're reasonably priced. The Robart retracts will give you a better adjustment of down and up cycles but are heavier. Others have used Century Jet retracts. I think pneumatics are the way to go instead of mechanical retracts. kelvin
-I converted the Top Flite Gold Edition P-51 Mustang to electric…. I had spring air retracts. Ken Lapointe
-I've built the TF P51 …. Mine had Century Jet retracts. They are VERY nice, but heavy. RCMustang


I am not sure if this information will help others or make the selection more difficult.
I plan to start my build in Feb, but I have never built an airframe that utilized retracts......

Beagle

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

Zope:

I've always used 1/4-20 nylon wing bolts on airplanes this size. No problems. Replacements available at most hardware stores, and Tractor Supply.

mikemedic2

Hi Beagle, welcome.
Man that was a lot of work![X(] but you can add a 2 to the 531's. I just bought a set for my build which will hopefully start soon. I am just trying to finish a GP 20 cub and the finish work is not going well, I am not happy. I don't want to put it aside cuz I won't finish it more than likely for a long time, But I am very anxious to get going on the stang.
Good luck with your build please post pic's if you can, I have learned a ton with all the pic's everyone has posted.

mikemedic2

Hi guy's:
Another question if I may? I have been thinking about nav lights also and I cannot find any I like out there. Curtek had some nice looking ones but the site said they closed for reorg. Ram lights don't seem to have the right flash pattern[]. I guess I mean to say I would like to have the wing tip lights solid with the strobe flash. like this guy's cessna.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tTW6K3tcEBI
He has a great setup there but I believe he made them. any help would be greatly appreciated.
mike

saramos

I had picked up a set of RAMs at the AMA convention. Three lights, always on for about $30. I decided to make my own for a modified 4 star I'm building. I found some schematics online for a dual LED flasher and modified it. I ended up with a setup with red/green for the wingtips, two 10,000mcd superbrites for landing lights and a superbrite for the flashing strobe. Since I only needed one flashing LED for the strobe, I used a regular diode in place of the second LED. The entire circuit has two caps, two transistors, 1 diode and 7 resistors run from a 9V battery. I made a connector out of a board mounted female 4 pin phone jack and an RJ11 male jack so the circuit board, strobe, and battery will be mounted in the fuse and the landing lights and tip lights can be connected/disconnected. Selecting the proper resistors, I was able to achieve a strobe rate very close to the standard 85 per minute.

If there's interest, I could draw up the schematics with the partlist I used. I have to say, not having any electronics background, it took some testing, and more money than if I had bought an off-the-shelf unit. But now that I have a design, it could be built for around $20 - $30. Some of this price is because I could not find a place locally where one could buy individual resistors and had to buy packs.
If one searched, you could probably come up with a method with a smaller part count than I did.

Scott

mikemedic2

Thanks saramos, I am trying to stay away from doing it myself right now. I am trying to learn too many things at once and then don't focus enough on one thing.[&o] But later I definetly would be interested in learning how to assemble these unit's.

Mustang1964

Saramos:
Would you please post your diagram. I am learning a lot on this build. I am thinking about adding a second mustang. The second one will have all the extras that this one does not.

Mustang1964

saramos

The Circuit

R1, controls the brightness of the strobe light.
R2 and C1 controls the time the strobe light is on.
R3, R4 and C2 control the time the strobe light is off.
R5, limits the volt on the diode.
R6 controls the brightness of the wing tip lights.
R7 controls the brightness of landing lights. The LEDs have a high enough rating to work without a resistor when wired in series, but I found them to be warm to the touch, so I added it.
Q1 and Q2 do the switching of the strobe.
As I stated before, I modified a dual LED flasher circuit I found on the net. I simply replaced one of the LEDs with a Diode I had.

Parts List and Pricing

R1 300 ohm .50 (Q 10)
R2 8.2 k .50 (Q 10)
R3 6.8 k .50 (Q 10)
R4 68 k .50 (Q 10)
R5 300 ohm .50 (Q 10)
R6 150 ohm .50 (Q 10)
R7 22 ohm .50 (Q 10)

D1 1N4148 .75 (Q 15)

Q1 2N3904 .75 (Q 5)
Q2 2N3904 0

C1 10 nano .10
C2 10 nano .10

LED 1 White 3000 mcd 20ma 3.5v 2.00
LED 2 Green 3000 mcd 20ma 3.5v 2.85
LED 3 Red 2000 mcd 20ma 2v 1.00 (Q 2)
LED 4 White 10,000 mcd 100ma 5v 2.50
LED 5 White 10,000 mcd 100ma 5v 2.50

9v battery clip 1.50 (Q 3)
Solderable Perf Board .75
4 pin board mount female phone jack 1.00 (Q 5)
4 pin crimp-on modular phone plug 2.50 (Q 10)

Total 15.55


I purchased most items at All Electronics.
The two 10,000 mcd white LEDs I got at Frys

I did not include the price of wire (I used 22 gauge), solder or tools
or shipping if you order online. I am fortunate to live near both stores.
When I made mine, I used 4 pin handset plug and jack. I don't recommend using the handset plug and jack only because finding a crimp tool for it is problematic.

The other items that I did not price out, was the cost of shrink tubing as I had bought a variety pack from All Electroincs about a year ago. I cover the entire circuit board in some larger diameter shrink tubing too.
I cut it off for the photos. It might be possible to use a rubber coating or some type of RTV to cover it. I suppose one could make some type of enclosure too.


Scott

saramos

Here are some photos.
Photo 1 shows the top of the board The jack connects to the wingtip and landing lights. The black and white wires go to the strobe LED.
Photo 2 is the bottom.
Photo 3 shows the connector for the wing lights.
Photo 4, the insulation on the wire I purchased was too large to fit into the modular plugs, so I spliced them to a short section of phone cord.
Photo 5, from left to right, strobe, port led, starboard LED, and the two Landing Light LEDs. Note, I added the brightness (power) limiting LED between the two landing light LEDs. The resistors for controlling the brightness can be added before, between, or after the LEDs, as long as they are in series. LEDs in parallel will require thier own resistors. When wiring LEDs, you need to be sure that you don't exceed the power rating of the LEDs. These are all running from a 9 volt battery and will need resistors, or enough LEDs in series to prevent them from burning out.
Photo 6, I took about a dozen snapshots, but couldn't seem to catch the strobe while lit.

If you haven't worked with LEDs, I suggest doing a search to learn more about working with them. Here's a couple of links.

http://www.uoguelph.ca/~antoon/gadgets/gadgets.htm
http://discovercircuits.com/

Scott

Cpig

I'm 95% finished, all I have to do is install the radio gear and glue the control surfaces on. Here are a few pics: (I know the USAAF insignia is on the right/wrong wing but I had a small blemish I had to cover there.





You can see some of the rivet and panel line detail here. I wanted to keep them subtle.

Cpig

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Cpig