BradSD

My Feedback: (9)

Zope,,,, for some reason I was thinking you were an older guy[X(] maybe it was your avitar picture. One of my good friends is a pilot, I taught him to r/c and he taught me to fly the 172. I never went to pilot school, he just let me fly from the right side. We talked flying constantly at work and I learned a lot about how planes funtion from him. Is that your plane or do you rent? If I had my own I might would give up RC for the real ones.
Intermidiot, you adjust by moving the pushrod connections on the control horns and then you set your travel on your programable radio. I have never seen anything get damaged from to much travel so dont worry about that when you first start. The servos will buzz and complain until you get it all adjusted. Usually if to much travel is there something will give and flex in the pushrod or the servo will completly bog down. You will find this all to be very simple when you get to it, it does take a little time to do. You do not have to have digital servos, your TX will handle this.
I just finished up the skoop and it looks good, I went ahead and rounded it out and smoothed with some 600 grit. Im off work after tonight so it will be put up for a few days now. I will work on the fiberglassing this weekend at home on th p-39.
Enjoyed the pictures, Zope when we all get done you fly around and pick us all up one weekend for a fly in.
Brad

intermidiot

Thanks for the info there brad. However, if at all possible can one of you guys take a picture of your rudder and elevators at full up and down along with full left and right. Just 4 photos. I would just like to see how far they go in relation to the elevators and then against the fuse. I know I might be asking alot here. I just want to get an idea of how much I have to sand so that my throws are where they should be.

So again, if you guys can.. two pictures from the behind the rudder facing the back of the plane left and right and then from one side of the elevators facing the fuse up and down elevator.

I just think this visual will help me out if at all possible. I know it is asking alot, so if it's too big a request I understand.. I will just go with what I am doing.

zope_pope

Hey buddy,
I would if I could, but unfortunately I havent even cut the hinges yet. Great Planes makes an excellent tool for setting throws. I use it all the time and it is only about 15 dollars. It mounts on the horiz stab, wing, fin, whatever you are measuring, and it has a scale that shows you how much deflection you have. For my models I tend to sand about a 45 degree angle or so, maybe less. The easiest way I have found to do this is or atleast get it started is to take a pen or pencil with a straight shape and put the hinge line face down on a table. Then use the pen that is flat on the table and draw a line. it ensures the line is straight and then just sand there from the center line. the great planes Ultimate Biplane .40 instructions have pictures of this technique. Hope it helps.

Also, could you do me a favor and take a side shot of how your retracts look when they are extended? Take it straight on from the wing tip. Still having a hard time getting my retracts perfect. Thanks

Hey Brad,
Yeah I get the I thought you were older a lot. Maybe its the way I type? Not too sure. Anyhow, yeah, I wouldn't mind picking you guys up since gas prices are dropping a little bit finally. 92 bucks an hour isnt too bad split three ways. :P

intermidiot

ok.. no need for those photos gents.. I found some that showed me what I needed to see.. Based on this planes HI RATE you have the following Control Surface Throws

ELEVATOR: 11/16" up and down
RUDDER: 1-1/8" left and right
AILERONS: 11/16" up and down
FLAPS: 1-11/16" up an down

So ( and correct me if I am wrong ) at balace / level the highest that the above items should be is the distance from center of the widest part of each area. What I mean by that is you can ultimately just hold a ruler center on the ELEVATOR at NEUTRAL and then move the ELEVATOR up and down 11/16" to point. That will be the widest throw. Shaving everything to a 45 is nice and neat, but I think it ends up removig more wood then required. I am sure it will work both ways. But this is correct? No?

http://www.masportaviator.com/ah.asp?ID=42&index=3

I will take a picture for you Zope.. No Problem. However, now that you have made that statement I can definitely see that one wheel extends a little farther ahead then the other.. which I assume would make the wing a little off when it comes to leveling. I am sure it does not have to be perfect, but we are talking about 1/2" here... I have going to have to take out the shim I used and cut away a little from the back retract bar to bring it in a little. Here is the thing.. I did these wings a long time ago.. Maybe 5 years.. I moved to Australia and when I came back well .. here we are.. I am not happy with my epoxying job I did 5 years ago. I think I grew up a little.

I, just like you are now considering redoing the wings completely.. lol ( a bit extreme ) but I mean really how long does it take? a day.. ( if the parts are not warped ) This is important but can anyone show me a link to the price of JUST the wings in kit form? Just as a consideration.. I assume it will cost like 70-80 dollars which is kinda high when the kit is 149.-- I just want to see it..

zope_pope

80 Bucks sounds right. You would have to get the parts individually. I crashed my little utly and needed a new wing. Priced it out, it was 20 bucks less than a whole kit, so guess what. i have spare parts of everything now.

BradSD

My Feedback: (9)

I would be interested in your wing if the price is right. I am going to have to buy the kit to get the wing. If you decide to redo let me know.
Brad

intermidiot

Brad,

If I replace the wing, you can HAVE the old one. Just pay the shipping charges, or take a drive over to get it. I am not that far away.. oh only about

Total Est. Time: 14 hours, 50 minutes Total Est. Distance: 937.58 miles

Whew... I guess we will be shipping it.. heh... I will let you know. They sent me an email a few minutes ago. I am working on the problem with them now. Just keep in mind that the wing is not that perfect. it is off.

BradSD

My Feedback: (9)

That sounds like a heck of a deal, I will throw in some extra for your trouble if you should decide to do so. I am in the process of fiberglassing as I write this, I snaped a couple pictures during the first round that I will post later on. So far I am very pleased with the system three but lets see how she dries befor I give my stamp of approval. I did get messed up, the hardner container is not big enough for the pump so next time a larger order will be placed. I ordered the pint this time to give it a try, I thought the pump would be matched but it wasnt. I will post later on results if you guys are intrested.
Later,
Brad

zope_pope

Totally interested. Never glassed, but would like to on this plane.

intermidiot

Hello all,

Here is a simple question for you guys.. Once the retracts are open where the wheels are down. Should you release the pressure in the lines until you are ready to fly? Or is it ok to leave the 80lbs of pressure in the can?

I fixed my retracts. They are not leaking anymore, and if they are it is so slight it is not noticable. I figure the average flight time is about 12-18 minutes. So far the pressure has remained constant for about 6 hours and 30 minutes. So they are ok. I spoke with the people over at top-flight and they will not replace my wings for me, but will charge me for each piece. I sure wish they would have replaced them. So I am sorry Brad, but I have to work with what I have. My funds are very limited and I cannot afford 100+ on parts for new wings. But I promise you I would have sent them to you for nothing if they had. Sorry to let you down.

I have fixed the retract with a little bit of dremeling so I will have that photo for you hopefully tomorrow. Should not be any later then 8pm.

Thanks gents, and real sorry about that Brad. I wish I could have come through for ya on this.

BradSD

My Feedback: (9)

Thats okay, I know how it is. I have a family and bills to pay also. I am going to write a complete article with pictures very soon on this fiberglassing, so far I am getting excellent results. The top of the wing is done and I will finish the bottom today. Its going to be nice to get that waffer thin sheeting some strength. I must have 10 patches on it . I told my wife the other day that I am going in overdrive and getting this thing built. I got so in to the p-51 it has been left on my board for a very long time.

I have only had one set of retracts before, but I always left the air in the tank with no worries. You should be able to cycle the gear several times before losing all your pressure. I have heard in a few extreme cases of the air tanks exploding and totally destroying the model. I think that this is from people who tried to build their own tanks. How did you get the air leak fixed? And how did gluing work out so far?
Will put my article up soon!
Later,
Brad

intermidiot

Hello,

Glad to hear you are getting great results.. heh.. I have started to sheet my wings.. they are going well.. there are some low spots that I will have to use balsa filler with.. I am actually not too keen on sheeting. Guess that is cause this is the first time I am doing it.. A very slow process to work out the angle perfectly, but it is going well. The wing is level as hell. I am very happy about that. The retracts are working perfectly as well.

I did not glue the hoses for the retracts. What happened with the test is that the glue adheres to the hose but not much else. I figured it would harden it up a bit, but nothing. The more I thought about it the more I did not like the idea of having to deal with glue if anything ever did fail. Getting those hoses apart is hard enough without it.

It is so amazing to see the plane start to take shape. Happily I might add. I am just a bit curious about how to bolt it on. The CLE has to be shaped, but there is really no indication in the manual as to how to shape it or the angle to be used, or even how flush it should be to the fuse. I am going to take pictures tonight, so after you look at them maybe you can give me some feedback.

Talk to you all later on.. Have a great day..

zope_pope

Hey intermidiot,
How are you sheeting the wings, one big peice glued before gluing on the wing or individual sheets then gluing them together on the wing? I have found it way easier to glue the sheets together and then put it on the wing. This helps because there are no low spots and its easy to sand a flat surface on a table. There is also no risk of punching a hole in the sheeting. Just my two cents. I am still working on my retracts believe it or not, but should get sheeting done this weekend. Hope to post pics.

Brad,
The fiberglassing, is this the p39 or another p51? I think i got lost. But definitely post the article, I would love to see the process. It kind of sounds like a pain if you need to repair though. But who knows, it could be easier as well.

zope_pope

A quick question on retracts. Which robostrut is the correct one to use for this model?

intermidiot

Hello Zope,

I used the ones from the book. This is what they are:

Part # 653L
LH Offset for 3" - 3 1/4" Wheels

MSRP $47.95 (ea.)

Part # 653R
RH Offset for 3" - 3 1/4" Wheels

MSRP $47.95 (ea.)

This is where they are: Middle of Page:

http://www.robart.com/RoboStruts/380_Series.aspx

and in regards to your question. I am doing one sheet at a time.. I am having enough issues with that... lol.. NM trying to do a larger piece.. heh.. It is actually working out really well. However, I will try one large sheet on the bottom tomorrow..

Thanks for the info..

Now here is a kit! - http://www.nortexinfo.net/jhardy/youngster.htm

BradSD

My Feedback: (9)

This is the P-39 that is getting the glass. I just finished sanding the first side and will lay down the bottom glass tonight. My P-51 is at work and I am in the early Fuse stages.
Brad

zope_pope

Dude, I wish I could build my model at work! Must be nice. I used to do that at my old receptionist job, but I won't get much sold if I am building at my new job.

FOShowNoClass

My Feedback: (7)

Hey, guys. Nice to see some other 1:1 drivers out there. He's a few pics of me at work. One is of my new toy at work. The other is me in the left seat doing my job, and the other is of me when I sat in the right seat of a CRJ for a newly bankrupt carrier on the east coast.

Has anyone thought about using a 1.2 two stroke? I was looking in a magazine and saw that a GMS 1.2 puts out 3.3 HP and doesn't weigh but an ounce or two more than a .90. Any suggestions?

Will

zope_pope

Lucky guy, I hope to get there someday. The citation X is my favorite corporate Jet. Sweet toy. I was thinking about a 1.35 moki on this thing, but I think its too much for the airframe. We will see though. Let us know if you decide to go wtih the 1.20 two stroke.

FOShowNoClass

My Feedback: (7)

You'll be there sooner than you think. I was a new CFI four and a half years ago when I got done with college. I was at a regional for just over three years. When the upgrade there was in sight, the furloughs started and I got caught up in it. Only good thing was I got 2500 hours of jet time. I upgraded to captain at this job as soon as I had the insurance company's mins. That took only six months. Despite what's going on in the industry, there are plenty of good paying jobs with great schedules. The 200K a year jobs and most of the respect of the profession are gone, but don't let that scare you away. The airline was a good place to build time, but I knew in a year that it wasn't the place for me. Good luck!

I'm tempted to go with a 1.2, but I want a scale flying model. Nothing crazy or overpowered. I may go .90 after all. I really have no idea...

Will

intermidiot

Hey guys..

This plane is slowly coming to an end.. I was wondering if we might all do this again on the next plane. Together. I was wondering if you guys would throw out your next 3 potential planes and maybe we can all decide on 1 to build? Maybe.. heh.. What are the chances?? lol

Here are 2 of my 3 choices..

[link=http://www.balsausa.com/kits/kit.htp?id=14&shopperid=]1/4 Scale Citabria Pro*[/link]
[link=http://www.balsausa.com/kits/kit.htp?id=56&shopperid=]1/3 Scale Ercoupe (415-D)[/link]

I cannot decide on the 3rd, I will check out what you guys throw out there.. I will be sheeting and hopefully finishing up the fuse this weekend.. so we will see how far I get.

Don't want to change the topic, but I figured I would add this while we are building.

Whoa, I just checked out the price on the 1/3 scale Ercoupe. That one might have to wait. maybe Christmas..

BradSD

My Feedback: (9)

I am really a warbird freak, and like the Top Flite series. I would really like to do the F4 Corsair, that plane has been on my want list since I started this hobby. I'm still working on the fiberglassing tonight, just finished laying the glass on the bottom side. This part of the build is really fun and rewarding. Still planning to do a detailed write up on completion of the wing. This sytem three is very nice, I think I will use this stuff from here on out. I'm getting that excited feeling about aproaching the painting and finishing part. I here this plane (P-39) is the best flyer of the series, we will soon be finding out.

Intermidiot don't kid yourself, you still got a long ways to be air worthy. Fiberglassing, painting, radio install, balancing etc. many hours of work to go.
Later,
Brad

BradSD

My Feedback: (9)

Hey good to see a new person come in. I flew this plane with a .90 and it was not overpowered by any means. Was fast but the vertical was very limited and would stall out quickly. If you go with that much engine you might want to prop for power and not speed. You could cause a structual failure on the aircraft. The .90 required a lot of lead in the front, so something heavier would help this out. I would rather have engine weight than useless lead.
Go to go finish my wing guys.
Brad

intermidiot

Exactly Brad,

But I cannot see it taking longer then Christmas. You? I like the warbirds myself.. I was thinking F4 Corsair myself. I have to check the dimensions.. hold on..

ok which one?

[link=http://www.top-flite.com/airplanes/topa0410.html]A giant-scale "Sweetheart."[/link]
or
[link=http://www.top-flite.com/airplanes/topa0101.html]Corsair gull wing "revised"[/link]

I was thinking something larger this time. The revised edition is smaller then the p51d. What do you think Brad. Zope?? It is kinda nice smaller though.. Keep it in the family.. Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm

zope_pope

I dont know man. Me I am going to try to get all the top flite 1/7 scales. I think that would be a neat collection. Thanks for the encouragement Will! I am off to bed. Going to be flying my bipe tomorrow and don't want to be too sleepy.

Also, intermidiot, will you be doing the maiden on the mustang? I just don't want to see something bad happen, if this is your first model. See ya.