Hughes500E

My Feedback: (16)

Well I am off! Today I am starting the Sukhoi SU-26MX kit by Carl Goldberg. It is suppose to be the 2nd edition kit and it is also suppose to be my winter project [X(] I just can't wait anymore. Step one as usual is to sort the contents of the kit. Giving the size of the Sukhoi I am surprised with the amount of room in the box. My initial response was that equal to "this won't be bad", man am I eating those words!
I am having a heck of a time sorting this out, thus my above comment, "suppose to be the 2nd edition kit" Maybe they released the 2nd edition with the first edition manual? Nonetheless, the added challenge will only contribute to the experience. Come to think of it, I believe this is my fist Goldberg kit [X(]
Oddly enough, I am starting with the fuselage! Why, after trying to sort out all of the kit's contents, I am afraid that I may be missing pieces or some fortunate sole with the first edition kit has successfully obtained the newer parts

Stick around, I have many excuses!

ghendrix01

My Feedback: (1)

You can tell the second edition kit by where the landing gear mounts. If on the fusalage, it's a second edition. If on the wing it's a first edition. There are a couple of other differences but this is the easiest to describe. Both kits are harder to build than usual Goldberg kits, with the built up ailerons. Other than that, it really isn't that difficult. I normally tell people to follow the instuction and the building order therein, but do as you wish. Remember, you will not be able to finish the fuse until you finish the tail feathers and wing. Oh well, enjoy building and flying it.

George

Hughes500E

My Feedback: (16)

Sorting this kit out has been a real chore! I hope the rest of the build is more enjoyable. Here is a picture of the parts layout. There is still one more former I have yet to identify, I will keep working on that one. The only thing that makes sense is the instructions are out of date. The laser cut ply parts do not match the parts key! Easy enough to work through I guess but , holy Carl, Lanier or who ever
Also note that the fuse sides/tops etc are not laser cut. I found that interesting!
This picture should help anyone with this part of the build. As soon as I finish trimming the laser cut ply firewall pieces so they actually match, I will be gluing them together in an attempt to get the warp out!

Can you tell, I am enjoying this build so far !

Hughes500E

My Feedback: (16)

Well, I have been checking out the rest of the kit. The plywood and the balsa throughout this kit appears to be good quality. Very impressive pre-shaped leading edge pieces for the wing and the ply sheeting for the turtle deck is great, I love the design for the usually dreaded turtle deck to fin transition found on other kits. The supplied hardware is also impressive, you even receive the wheel axles [8D]

Bass1

My second edition kit was missing some plywood for the motor box and landing gear mount. It's been awhile since I built it but I recall some other minor issues with parts from the first edition being substituted for the newer parts. Somehow during the wing construction, I ended up with a warped wing and I called a Goldberg tech and he suggested using a spray solution of amonia and water and sand bagging the problem area. This took care of my warp and all is well. Great airplane but watch the amount of paint you use on the cowl and belly pan as the weight can add up quickly.

Hughes500E

My Feedback: (16)

Thanks for your reply. I am willing to bet that I have one of the first kits that they changed to a second edition. The box says fiberglass parts included etc but they are plastic and the instructions well read above

I have been sanding the fuse sides and I have glued the doublers on. All the formers are ready to go so we will se how the fit is shortly. Wish I could figure out what this former is:

Hughes500E

My Feedback: (16)

Sure comes together quick Nothing glued yet and the fit is satisfactory. An area they could improve, laser cut the entire kit.
Tomorrow I am going to align the fuse and glue it, then work on the engine box. I am quite happy despite the beginning!

Bass1

Hughes, I remember talking to the Goldberg people several times and was told that about "5 or 6" of the transitional kits had some parts mixed up between the two. Well if you've got one and I had one, then there were about 4 others that missed the quality control inspection. The parts sheet in question is (from left to right) Fuel tank tray, motor mount sides, and motor mount front. I have no idea what the part on the right is. Probably one of the parts I was missing.

Hughes500E

My Feedback: (16)

Definitely, I have one of the kits that suffered It is making the build very stimulating. The piece in question appears to be the front bottom , located just ahead of the landing gear cover plate.
Thankfully it is raining, I am free from guilt remaining indoors with teary eyes from CA. I am determined to frame this fuselage.
The alignment has gone very well, makes the term self aligning believable.

Hughes500E

My Feedback: (16)

So, I have ran into my first bumble! I have to wonder why Goldberg relaxed on their obviously well designed fuse and allowed the wing hold down assembly to remain, well, unstrong? The hardwood is simply glued to the doubler offering very little support for the wing! With this design I can not even construct anything to help support it. The hardwood block is flush with the saddle.
Can anyone offer up a fix?

Bass1

My Sukhoi has had about 40 hard flights and the hardwod block has not been an issue. I just used a good 30 minute epoxy. If your still worried about it you could"pin" it the with the fat parts of several toothpicks epoxied through the fuse and into the block Then sand flush. Like pinning the firewall on a gasser.

Hughes500E

My Feedback: (16)

That's exactly what I was thinking to do, pin the block to the side[8D] . I'm also going to make 2 supports from 1/4 inch balsa to give the block more support. Everything is going together well so far.
One area that you have to be careful with is the placing of the formers. Former A,B2,F,G and H are straight forward. I installed these in place then aligned the fuse and glued. After the glue dried I lined the fuse up with the plan again and positioned Former B and C. Be careful with former B, the landing gear blocks require the spacing to be perfect. Glue the 8 pieces to make up the 4 landing gear blocks and fit the entire setup together dry, then glue. The engine box went together well. I re-enforced the entire box inside and out with 1/4 triangle stock and I will be pinning the firewall as well as the 1/2 triangle stock it is glued to. Have to look after the MVVS 1.60
I have also opened up all the lightening holes on the fuse sides. I am going to try and build a one piece elevator and use either a carbon fiber fiber rod or pull pull on both rudder and elevator. New area for me, but I like the idea of no exposed gear and hoping to be a bit lighter.

Really happy that the fuse is complete and assembled. I was a bit worried there in the beginning [:-]

Hughes500E

My Feedback: (16)

A few folks showed interest in following along with a build thread on this craft. Should I continue on?

mtnmnstr

My Feedback: (2)

YES!!!!!!!


I have one stacked in my build que. I was hoping some one was doing this.

Have you decided what engine you'll use.
I have a O.S. 91FX in the box and a Saito 1.50S 4s in the box.

Gene
So meny airplanes So little time.

krossk

My Feedback: (27)

ABSOLUTELY!!!
I too have one waiting in the wings and am very interested in following. Mine is a 1st Edition, but I have all of the plans and patterns for building it with the 2nd edition gear mount. I'm planning on the Saito 1.50 as well. Good luck - it's looking good so far.

c-grain

I have the same bird-bashed slightly.I weighed that landing gear and it was about 12 oz. with the axels!OUCH!!!Decided to use Spring-Air RETRACTS!Why,you say?The retract setup came in at about 1 oz. lighter and the plane looks a lot like a WWII fighter in the air and on the ground.Actually,there was a full scale aerobatic show plane-Staducher with retracts,but I can't remember the name.I've had the plane for 4 yrs.now and it's the 3rd kit I've built so far.This last one I saved about 8-9oz. by replacing the lite(heavy)ply with balsa ply(1/16" laminated to 1/16")The first one flew spectacular with a YS 91 4-stroke.The latest one has a Webra 120 Speed in it and its a rocket!!!I call it the Sukoi 26MXRG.I don't care that its not scale--It looks so good in the air and has much better energy retention and a little longer flights on the same size tank!The plane is lighter than the ones that were built withe supplied lite ply.Lite ply has the lowest strength to wt. ratio of almost all other woods.The only reason I think they use it is because it's cheaper to use and does save a little building time.But I think tou are better off in the long-run taking about an hr.or two more to finish a plane that takes anywher from 40-100 hrs. to build anyway,and the flight characteristics are better with the lighter plane.Dave designed a hell of a nice flying plane here and it flies even better when it's 1/2# lighter!
Cheers,
R.L.Karp,"Zooming-around at 8000' ASL"

krossk

My Feedback: (27)

Maybe so, but a decent set of carbon-fibre gear is 4-6 oz. lighter than stock and a lot cheaper/simpler/stronger than the retracts.

ICE_MAN

Cool Build... YOu btetter keep going! I'm thinking of trying this Kit in the future!

Hughes500E

My Feedback: (16)

OK great timing, I just finished up some other projects here and getting ready to continue on. I like the idea of retracts, bet it looks and flies great. I am going to fly mine with a 1.20 2 stroke for now.
Glad to hear there are others following along [8D]

poodle

Been there, done that. I built one of the first generation planes. The wing sheeting was rotten. You had to be real careful handling the wing or your fingers would go right thru it. My attempt at a 4 point roll solved this problem! A new wing cost nearly as much as a whole kit. Also you will want a engine that will swing as big a prop as you can get. I would suggest at least a 120 four stroke. I was running a ST90 and it was not near hoss enough. It seems like the prop only stuck out about 1" past that huge cowl. But this plane flies good. Good luck with your bird.
Steve

Guerra

My Feedback: (48)

This was finished in February, and had several flights. TT 120 two stroke, bisson muffler, Stan's Fibertech cowl and belly pan, duel elevator servos in back, modified rudder counter balance. Good flying bird, and landings are a breeze.

Hughes500E

My Feedback: (16)

That looks great!
How does it fly with the 1.20 2 stroke?

Guerra

My Feedback: (48)

Thanks, it flys good with the TT 120. I'm using a 16X6 which works well for my flying style. This is a light airframe and anything bigger could result in vibration issues, etc.. Battery was installed against 1st former for balance.

kerrydel

My Feedback: (2)

Does the second edition have airfoil tail feathers? It seems like it should because the ARF does, but I'm wondering if this is the case.

Thanks

Kerry

Hughes500E

My Feedback: (16)

Kerry:
looks like the tail is equal to the first edition! Nice rounding tool comes with the kit though