What's the best way to attach the wings on the Sig SE? I'm building my second, and want an easier way to do it. On my first I used a cross cut part of a bike innertube. I'm thinking about using a zip-tie. Is this a good idea? I haven't heard if anyone else has tried this and I am always looking for a new way to do this. Does anyone have any suggestions of what works or dosen't?

I use a zip tie on mine, works great.

Most people went with the rubber bands like the kit recommended with no problems. If you're really iffy about it, go ahead and use zip ties. Or change the rubber bands after every flight. Others have even used springs, braces, etc. I'm just rubberbanding and reinforce with zip ties. Works just fine...

good luck with your sig

One new #64 rubber band has always worked OK for me except for the time I forgot to attach it to the hooks[]

It is not particularly effective lying on the bottom of the fuselage. I got distracted in my assembly sequence because one of the aileron extensions slipped down the hole, and I forgot where I'd got to.

A wing came adrift just after take off, resulting in one of the quickest rolls I have ever seen.

Fortunately despite spectacular crash the plane was repairable.

Terry

I would suggest that for the 3/16 " dowels that hold the trailing edge of the wing, make them about 3/4 to 1" long rather than the 1/2" as shown on the plans. This gives more room for error if the wings get a little loose.. Saved me once when I forgot to put on the bands...Fred123[&:]

I also put a lock washer and nut on the inside of the wing to make sure the j hook never comes free.

Thanks for all the advise. I will use most of it in my new plane.

I also use a #64 rubber band and top it off with a zip tie. Only thing about using the zip tie is that it is a one time deal. I don't mind though. A zip tie is pretty cheap when compared to the entire plane. I didn't see it mentioned, but I do know of some that use "O" rings instead of rubber bands. I too, left my small wing dowels longer than the specified amount like fred123.

Just leave the dowels full length. Not much weight.
The zip ties definetely work.
Also, i use a velcro dot to help hold the canopy on. The dowel location on mine would not line up properly. Even after the Basset ate the first canopy, I had Sig send the parts for it. They did not line up correctly either. Good Kit though.
Use a Balsa cross member just behind the tank down low. Zip tie and "double-stik tape" the switch on this. Use a piece of plastic control rod thru the fuse with a wire in it, bent 90 deg to activate the switch. Flex the wire to get it in place. A small wheel collar on the outside to grab onto.
I do have a little slop in the ROLL direction on each wing. Anyone know how to get rid of this, without shimming???

I don't remember this, but did anyone have a long wing tube? I haven't read through the instruction book yet, but my fuse isn't 4" wide and the tubes don't fit right.

If you are talking about the aluminum wing tube, I had to cut mine down a little so the wings would sit flush with the side of the fuse. I can't remember the exact amount, but cutting it down won't hurt it.

Thanks Hookedonrc.

I to had to cut my tube down about 1/4". If I had it to do over though I would have left it that length and used a cusion between the wing and fuse. You can purchase a 1/8" foam adhesive backed sheet 12x12" for about a dollar at craft stores, Wall Mart craft section and most likely other places. It is avaialable in different colors.

JB

The only problem with using the foam between the wing and the fuse is that one side would get soaked with exhaust residue.

The problem is that with the first one I didn't read the dirrections and cut the female tube flush with the fuse and cut the rest in half. I'm trying to read the instructions this time, but I have been using CA and don't have much time.

Got it in the air, and flys great.
I also had to cut the wing tube.
Trimmed about 3/16 off the total length. It is vibrating around and shifting during flight.
I am gonna try adding some foam on the inside of the aluminum tube, and butt up against the inside / end of the phenolic tube. This should cut the vibration.

Just buy some 1/4x1/4 bass wood for the main spar and thow away over half a pound of unnesary wing tube stuff. build the wing as one peace cut out the fuse slide it in and you too can have a very light SE. the wing is so short very few take it apart any way.

How much extra weight will be in the spars?

A number 64 rubberband works good for me however, I have seen people epoxy in those 3/8 nylon toilet bowl bolts, brace where the bolts would go through the fuse with a 1.5 inch disk of light ply. then they drill a 3/8 or 7/16 hole though the side of the fuse in the center of the light ply and use nylon nuts to bolt the wings on. Looks like a great idea but, I have been lazy and just used the #64.

I forgot to mention, I have also seen people drill a small 1/16 inch hole through the bolt just past where the nut would seat up and install a hair pin or cotter pin to keep the nuts from backing off for extra peace of mind.

Wild-Willy, why couldn't I cut the tube in half, and reduce the length some.
Epoxy each of the two tubes permenantly into the wings,,, Then drill two holes thru both wing tubes inside the fuselage and use the plastic bolt/pin method to hold each to the Phenolic Tube???? Maybe turn the pins up instead of the way I have it drawn.

If I read your drawing correctly, windtalker, I think that the split tube might lead to some flex in the wings. The phenolic tube isn't that rigid, and after some time I'd be afraid that it would bend.

I've built two of these and flown the heck out of them. I like Sig's method. My only change was a variation of what Connery did in post #6 - put in a T-nut to keep the J-bolt from ripping out. I think that their system is the simplest and most rigid. I used both rubber bands and ty-raps, and never had a problem.

Just my $.02

Bob

I think your right. I went out to the shop and looked at the set-up after posting that.
The tube needs to stay one piece. Think I will stick with the Cable Ties. Considering Foam against the fuse for cushioning.

Windtalker,

I think the guys that use the bolt, nut, and pin method were trying to address a complaint that some have had with a slight gap between the wing and fuse. They are able to pull the wing tight against the side of the fuse. I noticed the SE that I have has a slight gap between the fuse and the back half of the wing but it is small and doesn't seem to hinder performance.

Regarding that gap, it's been a while since I built a SE, but wasn't there something in the instructions about not gluing that root rib until you fitted the wing to the fuse while it was 'in the bones', to get a good fit, or am I just dreaming?

I had a gap on my 1st SE, but not on my 2nd one. I wonder if I read the instructions more carefully then...

Bob