Question with PT60 build
#1
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From: Ft Worth,
TX
I am building a PT60 and with the exception of the Hobbico sturdy Birdy 2 this is my first real kit. My question is about the washout on the wing. I put the wing onthe washout jig as per the instructions and followed everything just as it was written, but when I took off the weights the wing went right back to the way it was before I sheeted it on the jig. Is this normal or is there a problem with my build? I was under the impression that the sheeting when glued on would hold the washout but it didnt. Any help??
Thanks in advance
James
Thanks in advance
James
#2
The PT-60 was my first kit.
I asked my instructor about the washout. I was concerned about being able to get both wings the same. He told me to just keep the wings flat on the table and not try to build in the washout. He said the plane is so stable it's just not needed. I built them flat and the plane flew great.
I built the 'sport' wing with lower dihedral. The book called for 4 inches. When I started fitting everything it all lined up with about 3.5 inches so I stopped sanding and joined the wings with 3.5 inches.
I asked my instructor about the washout. I was concerned about being able to get both wings the same. He told me to just keep the wings flat on the table and not try to build in the washout. He said the plane is so stable it's just not needed. I built them flat and the plane flew great.
I built the 'sport' wing with lower dihedral. The book called for 4 inches. When I started fitting everything it all lined up with about 3.5 inches so I stopped sanding and joined the wings with 3.5 inches.
#3
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From: Ft Worth,
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Ok, thanks. I built it flat on my work table but for some reason the darn thing just wont hold the washout. My buddy got himself an Avistar ARF and I noticed with it, that it didnt have a washout requirement so I thought that maybe it wasnt that big of a deal.
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From: Cameron,
WI
The wings will spring back some, but not all the way. With the washout, you can just glide in slowly without much worry about stalling. The sport wing is more desirable, for the trainer dihedral is overkill on this plane, flies nice and stable.
I had trouble with the control arm on the nose gear on mine. Plastic has some give, but doesn't take repeated abuse. A spare control arm may be a item to have on hand. I have a fult's dual strut on hand to put on mine, likely won't get to it for a while.
I had to add a lot of nose weight also, built heavy on the tail. Put a 5 once heavy hub on the engine, and 3 onces on the firewall. Engine runs smooth with the "flywheel".
Been thinking about putting it floats too. Just need time to do it...
I had trouble with the control arm on the nose gear on mine. Plastic has some give, but doesn't take repeated abuse. A spare control arm may be a item to have on hand. I have a fult's dual strut on hand to put on mine, likely won't get to it for a while.
I had to add a lot of nose weight also, built heavy on the tail. Put a 5 once heavy hub on the engine, and 3 onces on the firewall. Engine runs smooth with the "flywheel".
Been thinking about putting it floats too. Just need time to do it...
#6

My Feedback: (11)
You can set the washout with covering...the wing is flexible enough. After it's covered, twist the wing a bit to add the washout and use a heat gun to shrink the covering. You may have to twist a little bit more than the needed amount because of springback. This will hold for a number of flying sessions.
If your wing has zero or a small amount of washout, you'll be fine. Make sure it's the same for both left and right wing halves. If you have the opposite of washout, washin, then you HAVE to do something about it. Washin is rarely desireable in RC models.
If your wing has zero or a small amount of washout, you'll be fine. Make sure it's the same for both left and right wing halves. If you have the opposite of washout, washin, then you HAVE to do something about it. Washin is rarely desireable in RC models.



