Hi!

Whats the best way to do this kind of tail support? Close ups are welcome =)

The Sig SSE's have similar tailsupport.
In that design you use a metal pushrod with a modified clevis on each side.

Cut the "stick" side off the clevis and only leave the side with the hole.
Solder a clevis on one side och poushrod and thread one on the other side of the pushrod.
Attach through tail surface with a small nut and bolt.

(Hope that was semi-understandable)

os. The Bipe on that picture is absolutely stunning!

The best way I have found to do these is to drill the holes, and cut a piece of music wire to length (About 3/8" shorter that the distance from hole to hole)

Solder one of those electrical eyelets on ONE side and slip one on the other side.

Once all 8 wires are ready, screw them into position.

Now solder the other eyelet onto each wire - take precautions not to drip solder onto the covering! Or, if that makes you nervous, JB-Weld them in place.

What those guys said. Also, if weight is an issue, Kevlar thread, rigging couplers and clevises are another option. The Carl Gorldberg Pitts monster uses pull-pull cable with the rigging and clevises. They attach with hardware similar to [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLZ1&P=ML]these.[/link]

I have used Minn's method, and found the yellow solderless connections to be beefy enough to withstand high g snaps with a Saito 100 powered airplane. I cut off the yellow insulation and solder the 'solderless' connection to a 4-40 rod.

Sullivan makes a great bracing wire kit. It comes with both wire and kevlar, and all of the necessary hardware.

Thanks for all the rplys. My tailsupport need to be removable because the tail servos are installed inside the fuselage. Is it nessesery to have tail support on both sides of the "stab"? according to my plan, tail support should only be on the under side.

Is it any issues using carbon fiber instead of music wire?

I think deadeye had the best solution so far. Perhaps i can produce something homemade from an aluminum sheet.

Use "coated" kevlar. Don's Hobby in Salina, KS carries it. You can get it in bulk, along with clevis's/fittings. I don't see carbon fiber being much use in this application... it's way brittle, whereas the kevlar is much like string with probably 1000 times strength, also kevlar being "non-metallic" is probably better for your signal reception.
If done right, it makes what are normally flexible, unstable surfaces, totally fixed, and rigid, a necessity in my opinion for any "flat" stab surface. Different story if there's any foil built into stab, but flat-stabs SCREAM for flying wires.
You can use aluminum tubing for your rigging, and Don's has "eye"-bolts in either 2/56 or 4/40. Harbor frieght has the "electrician's crimp to make those pro looking couplings with the aluminum tube. I'll post a pic of my set-up a bit later(when I get home).

Whose ARF or kit is that? Nice looking plane, modified WACO UPF-7, I believe, but the bottm wing dihedral is gone and it has a bubble canopy. The WACO's used wires instead of a stiff brace, and you'd need them above and below the H stab. As far as that goes, even the stiff braces (such as piano wire) should go above and below, as the brace works better in tension than in compression. Here's a pic of my L-4 braces. This is the clevis method mentioned above. I soldered one clevis, and threaded the other one with a locknut; allows adjustment because it's difficult to get them exact, and the Cub used the adjuster, so it's a scale detail, too.