Can anyone advise the best way to form the elevator profile (as shown) from a solid rectangular piece of balsa.

Many thanks

Draw center lines on the leading and trailing edge. Stick 80 grit, or lower, sand paper to your favorite block and start sanding. I've tried using a small plane and it's much more work than just sanding it to shape.

If you are real careful not to get your fingers in the way, a bench mounted belt sander will work for the first major bit of grinding.

John

Lay the control surface on your building board, or other flat surface. Lay a pen next to it. If the pen doesn't come to the approximate center, put some flat scraps under it until it does. (Note: it does NOT have to come to the exact center, just close)

Now, keeping both pen, and control surface flat against the table, draw a line. Then, flip the control surface over and repeat.

The end result is two lines with a gap in the middle. the gap is your "Centerline".

Now, holding the control surface along the edge of the table, sand LENGTHWISE along the edge while holding the sanding block at the angle you want. Sand down to the top-most line of the two while constantly checking that you aren't sanding too much (or not enough) in any particular area.

This sounds a lot more complicated than it really is. But I have yet to try any gizmo that does it quicker, easier, and better.

OK, what are you guys using to draw these diagrams?

John

I'm using a computer

lol

Really? Maybe I should try that instead of using chaulk on the sidewalk?

John

go to the hobby store and buy one already that shape

Sorry, I couldn't resist (I honestly don't know what gets into me sometimes. You should hear the things I REFRAIN from saying!).

Anyway that was done in Adobe Dimensions.

Unfortunately, that doesn't work too well on kits like the Kaos where the elevator is tapered.

Besides, if we rely on the hobby shop to provide everything to us already carved to shape, what's next? Oh yeah, ARF's!

John

BAD Minnflyer,

Sorry couldn't resist. I have a small tool that scribes the center line on the surface for you I believe it was made/sold by carl goldberg as part of their hinge sloting kit. You place on the surface and twist it so the two tabs on the ends touch the top and bottom of the surface then apply some pressure and run it along the surface and the center line is scribed takes about 2 seconds.

If I had some artisic talent and all the cool graphics editing programs Minnflyer has I'd draw youa new diagram But instead you are stuck with my descriptio n

I know the tool you mean. Goldberg supplies them with most of their kits. I have about 10 of them floating around my basement, I am always tripping over them, but of course, I can never find one when I need one! That's why I just use the pen method. LOL

Im going to regret this question, Im certain theres a rediculously simple answer ,just hasnt hit me yet.
Would someone tell me what "lol" means?

Laugh Out Loud.

There are also a host of others such as LMAO. ROTFLMAO, etc.

Laughing My A** Off
Rolling On The Floor .....

John

Your original question was about shaping from a rectangular block. You could get triangular strips of different dimensions from your LHS and use the technique described by Minnflyer. You could also use the GP multi sander to sand out the bevels. Very easy to use and accurate. But if you already have the rectangular block, you could still sand out to the triangle dimensions you need using a sanding bar (just make sure it is longer than your wood), and then bevel it. Just more work and a lot more balsa dust in your lungs.........

Thanks John, Been dreading asking that question for awhile.

This is really no big deal. Just draw your centerline(s), hold your sanding block at an angle, and run it along the edge until you reach the line. Then, flip it over and do the other side. We're only talking 1/4" balsa fer cryin' out loud. That's only 1/8" on each side! It doesnt even matter if they're tapered or not, you're just sanding a little bevel!

Very true Mike. Even if you're working on a 1.20 size plane, you're only talking about 5 minutes worth of sanding max. before you're ready for final sanding.

John

Many thanks for all the replies. Never realised that my initial question could raise such a diverse debate. Somewhere within lies the answer.

Just something else to run by you all. If the control surface is not that large then I can take it and use a rip fence on my band saw and put a spacer on the bottom to give the piece i am going to cut the right angle then just rip it to get the desired shape.


Just a thought