The Sig LT-40 instructions tell me to solder a solder link onto the end of each pushrod wire. Since I don't own a soldering iron nor do I know anyone that does, nor do I want to spend the money unless absolutely necessary, would it be ok to use J.B. Weld instead? Thanks

I have used JB Weld for many applications. I would not use it for that purpose.

I wouldn't try that, unless You like taking Big risks. Sounds like a crash looking for a place to happen. I have seen the Solder method fail a time or two. Try finding sombody you know that could solder it for you or go to your local hobby shop and replace the push rods provided, with the right lenght threaded rod

Ask around. SOMEBODY you know has a soldering iron, you just don't know they have it. And ask Santa for one. If you're going to stay in this hobby, you'll need one many times.

Radio Shack has an iron for about $10.

Les

if you dont spend money on things you need for this hobby maybe stick to reading

One note on soldering if you have never done it before. You need to apply constant heat to both parts for the solder to flow into the joint. Applying a little solder to the tip of the iron then touching the joint will help with the heat transfer from the iron to the rod. Keep adding solder until the joint if sealed (when it started to drip out). If you end up with a bunch of beads near the joint then the parts were not hot enough to let the solder flow good. This is called a cold joint and will fail under vibration. Hope this helps. Drop me a PM if you need more assistance.

I thank everyone for their advice, i will purchase a soldering iron... I priced them and they are not as expensive as I thought they would be.

You will also want to think about soldering the parts with silver solder. It comes in a package with the solder and flux. It is a lot stronger than regular electronic solder. Good luck, Dave

I bought a used plane last year that had J-B Weld on the control links,every link had play where the J-B Weld was applied,could understand then why the fellow had control problems,I solder.

One very important tip to a new solderer. CLEAN! CLEAN! CLEAN!
In order to have a good joint, you must thoroughly clean both parts to be soldered first. It helps to sand the metal with a suitable sanding pad and then clean with alcohol. Do not touch with your hand, the oils in your skin will weaken the solder joint. On difficult to clean parts (like the inside of a ferrule) a good solder flux will greatly help.

Hey! You guys trashing my J.B.?
While I wouldn't use it on control rods, well maybe I would , It does have many uses in the hobby.
I once fixed a broken case on my ST 60 to hold the carb in, and it held for the entire time I used the engine! I really didn't think it would, but I was amazed. You really need to clean your surfaces with acetone, MEK or Laquer thinner.
I have also made muffles using it, aluminum tube, and a hairspray sample can. Just my 2 cents.

Jetts

Lots of good advice about soldering here. One thing that is very, very important wasn't mentioned, however. If you're buying a soldering iron for this hobby be sure to buy one with enough wattage. The 25-30 watt circuit board variety does not produce enough heat and will NOT solder control links and couplings properly! Be sure to buy a good quality pistol or heavy straight iron with MINIMUM of 90-100 watts. Weller makes a good one and so do several other manufacturers. If you can find one of the Wellers that's dual-heat (I think they're 100W low - 150W hi) that would be ideal.

One other thing, don't be stingy with the flux. It makes for strong and pretty solder joints.

I agree with all that has been said about soldering, the advice to have an iron, and the recommendations. I too, have a soldering iron and use it for many things both in this hobby and elsewhere.

That having been said, I'd still go with the threaded rod recommendation for the LT-40. What SIG describes is to solder a (smooth) clevis to a short piece of rod and then epoxy the sub-assembly into the plastic rod (which then slides into an outer sleeve.

If you use the threaded rod, you can screw on a nice-quality clevis (like Sulivan) and still epoxy the rod into the plastic inner-sleeve. The threads will give a better surface to hold with the epoxy anyway. If this is the ARF, then you'll probably prefer to use the supplied inner/outer sleeves as the diameter match up. If this is the kit, then you may wish to replace the supplied rod and sleeves with something like Sulivan flexible stuff. In that case, you'd have a much smoother moving control system.

Just my 2 cents worth. Maybe less, but I'm not offering refunds!

Dave.

I use an Oxygen and Mapp gas combo. I solder with "Sil Floss" Brazing rods. It's super strong!! When your done-- its like the metals are fused together-- almost like welding.

These are the brazing rods used on copper refrigerant lines on your A/C in your house.

Works just fine-- and I get the brazing rod for nothing from work--We use it all the time and most guys won't use a rod after it gets shorter than about 6". I collect the short 6" rods and use them for brazing at home.