I'm about to start a Uproar 60. Had a question on the wing. It is held together by a 1/4 20 nylon bolt that is screwed into each of the wing halves, and CA'd in place. To lock the wing in, a aluminum tube, a stabilizing dowel, and the bolt are the methods. I wasn't really to keen on glueing the bolt in, since if I needed to replace it, I'd have to tear up the covering. I was thinking about putting a blind nut on the inside of the wing and screwing the bolt into that. Any Ideas or sugestions?

Here's a pictrue of it from the plans.

i've seen my share of giant scale planes that have the same type wing retaining method as you're describing. it always amazes me that each 4 ft wing section is held in place by one 1/4 nylon bolt. as to which is better- i can't say

imho i think that either way would be acceptable

maybe the bolt in the wing and the nut on the inside of the fuse could be a bit better because you could drill a 1/16 hole through the stud and then secure the nut from backing off with a piece of wire (i've seen what happens when this bolt backs out, and-----it's not funny.)

however the blind nut in the wing and the bolt through the fuse would hold just as well, just make sure the bolt doesn't back out i.e. grab both wings and pull outward - just to check

i have a 40 size uproar and this is the only thing i don't like about it- the wing is glued to the fuse so it's a bit cumbersome to transport. however it flys great. i can throw it up in any condition and have a ball with it. i've flown this plane in winds when the 300's, yaks, and bipes wouldn't even think of going up. how about starting a thread on this build??? this one is in my "future builds) list.....i'm currently around 50% completed with a GP super skybolt bipe and next i'm going to scratch build a .40 size ugly stick (one of the flyers still has his unassembled kit he just uses as a template.

I have had the Uproar 60 and this set up works fine. There are no forces on this bolt, all the forces are on the tube. I would tighten the nuts with my fingers and they didnt back off at all.

I worried that the screw could possibly back out over time and become loose in the wing rib so I replaced the screws with nylon hex head bolts, and glued a scrap of wood against one of the flats to keep it from backing out.

I thought about using steel bolts, with nylon nuts, so there would be no chance of stripping the bolt; but decided to stick with nylon. You could “gun drill” a steel bolt with a 1/8 (or slightly bigger) hole to eliminate some of the extra weight.

If you go the blind nut route, which I think is a really good idea, be sure they are glued in securely or they will fall out and force you to cut into the wing.

Ok, I've talked with the guys at our club also and they agree that the way the plans do it isn't very good. I'm going to put a blind nut in the wing, and put something behind it so that it doesn't pust itself out. I'm thinking as of this point, I will probably go with metal bolts compared to the nylon ones.

parrthd, thats a good idea about creating a build thread. I might do that if your interested.

i would be greatly interested, if i wasn't already in the middle of a build right now i would even consider ordering a kit and building one with you since i found out yesterday that one of our fliers wants to buy my uproar .40.......gonna hate to see her go but, on to other things.

1/3 scale Hanger 9 cap 232. 102CC gas engine. Held on by a single 4-40 screw on each wing panel. Hundreds of flights, no issues! w/ that design there's no way you are going to get enough lateral force to break a 1/4" nylon screw.