I am building a Sig Somethin' Extra and I have purchased a Sullivan tailwheel bracket for it after hearing not so good things about the standard tailwheel mounting.

Now my problem is that the sullivan mount covers the hole and blind nut in the rear bottom of the fuselage used for the flying wires on the tail surfaces.

Has anybody else had this problem?

What did you do about it?

I definitely want to use the Sullivan tailwheel bracket so I am thinking I am just going to have to not use the flying wires from the horizontal stab down to the bottom of the fuse. Just add the ones from the top of the fin down to the stab.

Any suggestions?

Ground a little off (made it a little shorter) , then cut a semi-circular groove in the front to clear the hard point for the flying wires. Drilled a hole close as I could to the front (I cut thru the old holewhen I shortened it) and put 2 blind nuts in the ply plate that it mounts to.

I just put mine over the hard point and filed a groove in the sullivan to permit the mount and the flying wires brackets to fit underneath, worked fine.
cuda

Thanks guys.

I am going to go ahead and mount the Sullivan bracket and drill a hole for the hardpoint and then use my trusty Dremel to grind away the bracket to allow the flying wires to fit.

After reading Cudas post, that's the way I should have done it!! Lots less work...and ties everything together, to boot!

After using many different types of tailwheels this has been the simplest and best setup for me. Make a tailwheel out of piano wire to suit your setup and size of plane. Install a brass tube in the tailpost with an I.D. same as O.D. of the piano wire. Make sure to reenforce the tail post area with a block of hard balsa if it isnt already. Use a wheel collar that has the set screw replaced with a 4-40 x 1-1 1/2 socket head screw. Use a stiff spring
(I found all different sizes and stiffness at ACE Hardware) wrapped around the piano wire at the collar and attached to a small eyelet screwed into a hardwood dowell in the rudder. The collar is easily tightened with a ball socket thru the end of the spring. The wheel setup will not fall out of the brass sleeve because of the pressure provided by the spring. Easy to repair and replace parts. No more lost wheels if you solder a washer on the end of the wire to retain the wheel.