Well I purchased the Contender about a month ago, along with pretty much everything I need to finish it. I ran into a setback when I lost my building surface, so right now I have the tail feathers pretty much finished, but that's it! The kit is sitting in my room I want to build a workbench myself, and I was wondering if you guys had any cheap economical ideas?

Anyways, I'm really excited to get started on my project again especially because of all the rain we have been having. This will be my third kit build, although it will only be the second plane out of those two kits that I will fly (Piper Cub was the other, which I have put aside for a while). I have experience with a Goldberg Eagle 2 and a Zagi 400. I'm really excited to get building this thing again and to get her in the air in the spring! I am powering it with a .45, which I figure will be plenty of power. Bought a six channel radio so I can use the flap on it It's going to be cream and dove gray camoflage, and I want to do some cockpit detailing.

Do you guys have any good ideas for modifications to it? I'm ITCHING to do at least a little kitbashing/modifying, maybe shorten the wings a bit or SOMETHING

I'll post some pictures once I get it a little farther along.

As for modifing the plane, don't mess with a good thing. The plane flys just great as is and needs no modifications. If you have a 5th channel available, hook up the flap as it ads another dimension to how the plane flys. As for a work bench, I have a couple of saw horse's and a door that I got from the Home Depot for about $16.00. I have used this combination for years. If you need storage as well, you can get an old desk from the Goodwill and put the same door on top of it. Good Luck, Dave

The Contender is a great flier. I added some rudder area to mine (see image - mimiced the horizontal stan/elev shape and added about 30% to the original). Much more authority for stall turns and flat spins. I'd only do two things different. I built the upswept tips and I don't think it is worth the cost in looks. I've flown another pilot's Contender and it doesn't fly any different either way. I couldn't get his to do the "Dutch Roll" that the upswept tips was supposed to prevent. And, I should have tipped the engine to run the exhaust low and get the cylinder out of sight more. I've seen a couple here and it is much racier looking with a smooth nose from spinner to canopy.



I also built a functional nose intake about 3/8" wide and 1/4" deep inside the "dummy" nose scoop to drain any spilled fuel and to get the air/cool back to the engine. I installed an O.S. FS70II with a rear down-facing carb. Poor man's turbo booster.

Oh, and I would have painted the inside of the canopy or just left it clear. I tried dying mine and it came out dark orange/brown instead of the dark gray I was trying for (first attempt was purple and I bought a second canopy). I even tried dying the scraps first and they came out OK. Grrrrrrr.

I'll second the door idea. Use an interior hollow core door, they are jig built and generally dead flat and true. You can get them from Home Depot, Lowe's, etc. Eyeball it before you buy, just in case, but they are usually perfect. Glue some Celotex ceiling tile to it (spot glue only, to make changing tiles easy) and presto - instant building board. If you rest it on something make sure you have it laying very flat and well supported, so it does not pick up a twist from the supporting surface.


Mark

N46203: I have attached some pics of my "Contender" build. I completed in late Sept.

The modifications that I made are:

1. added 1/2" width to the outbooard end of each aileron. (Required that I add 1/2" to the length of option upswept wing
tips, also.)
2. As you can see in picture I straightened the rudder trailing edge out.
3. I choose to use the upswept wing tip option
4. I built the wing tips to screw onto the end of the wing in case of damage, I could remove and repair.
In order to make this easy when recovering, if necessary, I added a 1/2" stip of balsa from leading edge of
wing to the trailing edge of wing so that I could end wing covering and begin tip covering. On both the
top and bottom of wing. I will see if I have picture that shows this strip.
5. Installed a OS .61 FX. Engineered cowling so that I could drop scoop and remove front braces to get
Engine out in case of needed repairs.

I have flown the plane twice on a "buddy box" with my instructor. I am still learning to fly. I have been
flying my Hangar 9 Alpha 60, but my instructor thought I was far enough along to fly the Contender on
the buddy box.

The plane is actually easier to fly than my trainer because it goes exactly where you point it, and it requires
very small inputs. But, I can tell that you could get into trouble real quick because it is so quick and sensitive
even on low rates.

I have the flaps set up on my JR 8103 at approximately 30 degrees with 3 degress down elevator programmed
in. It lands beautifully. I have that set on the flap switch. I have another switch set up for takeoff flaps at
10%. However, have never used them because with the .61 it gets off with a very short roll.

Plan on adding about to 3/4 to 1 oz. of weight to the right wing tip to offset muffler. Laterally balance the
plane with all equipment installed, but before you cover. I did and this plane flies beautifully thru
all pattern sequences. Knife edge has no coupling tendencies, snap rolls are same both right and left.

I added 1 oz and I am going to have to glue 2 pennies to left wing. I put in 1 oz as described above and at the time it was
perfect, but something changed slightly and now when doing loops it has a slight tendency to roll out slightly
(drop wing ever so slightly) to the right.

I would be glad to answer any questions you might have. This was my first build and covering job. I enjoyed it
very much. I am currently building rebuilding a Great Planes AT-6. At one time was a ARF, but was damaged and
so have all the coverings off, rebuilding fsue and portions of wing. My next full build will be a GP Super
Decathalon.

Good Luck

PS: I am using a door with 2 pcs. of 2x4 ceiling tile on top on 2 plastic sawhorses that I bout at Lowe's.

I forgoet to mention, that I made the air scoop functional and removeable. My OS .61 is installed in a Sullivan vibra mount.
The engine mount is set in rubber and there is very little engine vibration. The hatch on bottom of fuselage
is removeable with four screws to access glow tank and Dubro filler.

If I build another one, which is very possible, I will make the top portion in front of the canopy, behind the engine removeable, also.

Sweet! I like the straight tail!

If you look close you can see the two 1/8 oz split shot sinkers I added (crimped on "T" pins, CA'd and then the pinspressed through the bent and PVA glued in place both sides). But I'm balancing a much smaller aluminum 4-stroke muffler (pointing straight at the camera in the image). I'm the headless guy in the white shirt.

I covered in yellow & black & orange trim top (and all orange under the wing panels).

Flew out from under my canopy last time and I have to add some screws!

As mentioned earlier, definitely add the flaps.

One other point, make sure you bolt the nose gear bearing to the firewall and not use the screws as called for in the plans. Simply install blindnuts on the firewall when building. If screws are used, they will likely pull out with a less than perfect landing, that is, landing on the nose wheel first.

In my case, the bearing and nose gear came off and were propelled through the wing when I came down a little hard on the nose wheel. Very repairable, but easily avoided.

DaveB

Thanks! I am definitely building it with the flaps, I bought a new radio so that I could!

N46203,

I have my contender over a year and they are the greatest to fly, and even better to land. I too, built the flap and the upsweep wing tips. The flap, I don't really need because the contender takes off quickly and lands slowly so I never had the urge to use it. I will mention the comment by DaveB regarding the nose landing gear mount - use the blind nuts ! Also, I can now say that there is one more modification to make that will eventually pay off. By all means, use metal clevises on the control surfaces and particularly on the elevator. Two of our club members had these break and fail in flight. The results were terminal. Mine broke on takeoff before it left the ground. This was a real surprise as you watch your contender speed past you down the runway and just when you feel it's right to apply up elevator - nothing happens, but you keep on going. In my case I was lucky and shut down the throttle before it caused major damage. for some reason the clevis provided by Top Flite seemed to have failed. I'm the third in the club to experience this. So, use metal clevises and you will enjoy the Contender for a long long time ( barring any mistakes). I powered mine with an OS 50sx. It really moves. A 40fx would certainly be more than enough also, besides theres less cowl to cut away to install the engine. I hope some of this helps. Send some photo's and let us know how you make out.

Sledge_78

I am currently working on my Contender. This is the second kit I've built. I tried to attach a couple of pictures, hopefully it works. I am in the final sanding stage getting ready for covering. Mods include a larger rudder, and side mount engine. I never bolted my landing gear mount, and wish I would have after reading this thread, I probably will eventually do it. I have really enjoyed building this airplane. Let me know if you have any questions, I have some more pics that I can upload later.

Hi Nik: You have done a great job. Good clean looking build.I would make the following suggestions.

(1) You can add a small piece of balsa to each side of the top of the fuselage to hide the fin and joint (verticle stab)
See attached picture. Makes covering easier and looks better.

(2) If you haven't already, install servos, battery etc. and laterally balance plane before covering.
I had to use 3/4 oz. to right wing to offset upright mounted OS .61 with muffler hanging out to left.

I look forward to hearing your flight report. Keep the progress pictures coming.

Thanks for the suggestions Safebet I will be sure to both of those. I'm all about making the covering job easier. I hope to work on the plane all this week, so will post more pictures soon

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_34...ntender/tm.htm

Here's a link to a build thread that I did. I added a much larger rudder and counter balanced it, counter balanced the elevators, enlarged the ailerons and added landing lights and navigation lights. Lot's of good building tips etc... in this thread. Look at post #21 to see the tail feather mods.

Oh yea... I also aft mounted the elevator servo, added pull pull cables on the rudder and cut a bunch of lightening holes in the fuse. The fuse is still plenty strong. Posts #106-108 & 114-116. Finished product on Post #219-222.

Hi OverTheEdge: Good to hear from you, again. How's the Contender flying. I finally got to fly mine on the "Buddy Box." Don't trust myself
enough yet to go it alone with the Contender. Lot of time in that plane, as you well know from experience.

Flies exactly where you point it. No coupling in knife edge, very fast.

Give us some of your flight experiences.

Jim

I am considering this kit for the winter months, and trying the new 55ax for a power plant.. I was curious about the " Up swept" wingtips and what will do for the planes performance? Yaw coupling?

This is my first Contender and no one else in our club has one. I understand that the upswept wing tips are supposted to help in the "tip stall" dept.
I can't speak from experience on the yaw coupling, but I know from personal experience if the plane is build "straight" it flies exactly where
you point it. In knife edge it requires no trim, no tendency to couple to the canopy or wheels.

I am looking forward to gaining more flight time. This is a fun plane. I have a .61 OS FX on mine and it is fast!!!!

I wish you the best.

The upswept wingtips are to give the model positive roll coupling with yaw. With the regular tips, the model has adverse roll coupling with yaw. Either way, the model flies very well.

I appreciate the information Safebet, very helpful!
I can't wait to start building it. Lot's of great information here Bax, much appreciated.

Its been awhile but my Contender is almost done. Just finishing up installing the pushrods, and working out any minor bugs. What do you guys think of the trim scheme? I modeled it after a P-51 picture I found. Still looking for some sort of nost art.

Any ideas on why my pics aren't showing up?

File is probably to big. Try cropping picture or otherwise reducing file size

Out-friggin'-standing!!! [sm=thumbup.gif][sm=thumbup.gif][sm=biggrin.gif]