EJWash1

My Feedback: (3)

Again, correct. An instrument approach is an instrument approach. The catagories become more and more restrictive (visibility-wise) based on the runway's required equipment, the aircraft's capability, and the crew's training.

Sorry to see this thread hijacked - not YOUR fault. You were just mentioning your Instrument Rating accomplishment.

Back to the C-182 build/rebuild?

Zor

Hi flightsimer,

In post #942 you brought the topic of your IFR rating

It was mentioned later that there is only one rating.

In post 946 it looks like there is more than one level of the rating which is equivalent to say there is different classes of the rating.

I conclude there is little difference between USA and Canada.

Back to original thread topic.

Zor

heritageman

My Feedback: (4)

Crowe04, I,m looking to change my cessna from glow to the same setup as yours. Do you have to remove your wing to remove the batteries or to plug them up and do you have a switch or arming plug?

crowe04

Yes, the wing does have to be removed for battery replacement, but as I am running two 4500mAH, 6S lipos in parallel it is more than adequate for my flying sessions. During the build I opted to leave the two forward side windows off to give access for plugging in the servo and battery cables, this certainly makes things easier. In terms of switches for the main motor batteries I don't have any, just the batteries connected through a "parallel" y-lead connected directly to the ESC. The switch for the receiver packs and other electronic items are accessed through the baggage door.

heritageman

My Feedback: (4)

crowe04, I purchased the rimfire 1.20 electric motor with a castle 100 amp esc. Which batteries would be a good choice for this setup. What are the numbers on yours volts, c rating and such? Also do you have the batteries in under the dash where the tank would have been located? Trying to put as much inside the cowl as possible. Did you have to add any weight to balance. This has been a long ongoing project.

crowe04

The batteries that I'm using are two Turnigy, 4500mAh, 6 cell, 22.2v, 30-40C lipos connected in parallel. This means that I have a power supply of 22.2v and 9000mAh. To keep access relatively simple for the batteries they are located under the servo tray that is below the instrument panel. I lined the lower fuselage with 1/2inch foam to provide a padded base for them. In this location they are as far forward as I can put them in the fuselage without having the hassle of trying to figure out a mounting setup if they were to go in the cowl (I don't think you would be able to get much under the cowl anyway with the limited space available in there). With the batteries in this location I didn't have to add any weight at all to get the CG correct, mind you I do have two receiver battery packs mounted either side of the motor mount so I guess that took care of the balance problem that would have been there. The RimFire 1.20 has been absolutely fantastic, I'm sure you will find it to be a great motor for your model. As a side issue I use army surplus ammo boxes to store the lipos in when I'm not using them. I don't know what other modellers around the world use but these are extremely strong and fire proof, and relatively easy to come by here in Australia.

heritageman

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks crowe ,that's the batteries I had on my list, and I do store them in ammo box.

Jericho

I got caught up on this thread again. I have started working on my model, been a couple years since I last touched it. There are some nice planes on here that you guys have done a good job on building, inspires me to finish mine. Good job on rebuilding after the crash, I would think I'd be done with it after that . Ill try to post my progress again and I hope to get this plane finished soon...somehow this has turned into a 7 year project.

-Rob

impulse09

My Feedback: (3)

Do any of you know if a DLE-20 will fit in the cowl without anything hanging out?

heritageman

My Feedback: (4)

Impulse09, you'll have to cut the bottom uf the cowl for the head of the dle20 to stick out inverted.

Etienne 1

I have started my own thread on my cessna 182 build. " http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11331976/tm.htm"
Ihave read through this entire threadandthere are some good nice looking planes here and some good advise and tips. Nicework guys. I just love all the detail.
For " SDCrashmaster "
Isawyour 182it looks great with the opening doors and all the detail. Ijust want to ask if it would be possible to modify aTopFlite182 that is at 80%-85% complete to add opening doors? Thething is, there is a main spar on the side of the fusalage running through where the doors will be.Did you build it different thanthe plans and instruction say to accomidate the doors?How will cutting this spar affect the strength of the model and do I need to re-inforce the door frame at the top and bottom with something? Howcan It be done?
Anyaddvise on this issue is welcome...

Zor

Etienne 1,

I would not hesitate to cut what you call a main spar.
You can then glue in doublers inside the fuselage at the top and bottom of the door.
You could use semi-hard balsa or ply with the outside grain going lengthwise.

Zor

Etienne 1

ZOR.

Ihave since my post decided to do exactly what you're sying. I will glue in new support spars in the bottom and if a can at the top(very tight space with cockpit. and door frame is very high up and very close to the top support bar for the wing). Iwill use 3mm Lite-Ply,andthen for added strength,somethick fibre glass cloth over the whole door and door frame. this will strenghten the door aswell.It should be strong enough after that, since I will only be flying scale like and not do anyaerobatics.
Thank you for your input.

And anyinput into this projectis always welcome...Thanks.

Etienne...

ALPHA-AIR

Hey,
Big thread! I would like to know the best and most simple way to scratch-build the scale antennas at the top of the wings ?!
I am going to restore this 12 year old beauty and realized a glow to electric conversion.
Thanks, have a happy new year !

crowe04

I used a few reference photos of full size aircraft and 3-views to get a rough idea of the shape of the aerial fairing. I carved them out of balsa, drilled a hole the length of the fairing to insert a piece of 1/16" wire, 4" long. This is the total length, only 3 1/8" of wire is protruding from the top of the balsa fairing. This was then attached to a 1/32" plywood disc 1" dia. To the bottom of this I glued a 1/2" hard wood dowel that has a groove cut in it to accept a rubber o-ring. It is this dowel and o-ring that holds the aerials in place in the wing bolt holes. This is where it might be tricky if the wing is already built. During the wing build I installed a 1/2" brass tube in the wing where the wing attach bolts pass through this is what the o-ring captures to retain the aerials in place. Once complete a quick prime and paint with the final colour coat and the job was done. The added bonus with this type of aerial attachment is that it completely hides the wing bolts.

Zor

Just to mention something that bothers me.

You have built a beautiful scale model of the Cessna Skylane.

You have paid great attention to the radio antennas and have found a very imaginative way of mounting them.
That is superb.

Now I am trying hard to ease my mnd as to why you would convert it to electric propulsion,
The full size has an IC engine and sounds like an airplane in flight.



Zor

ALPHA-AIR

I agree with you !
But a Super Tiger nitro engine wouldn't even sounds like a Cessna in flight.
I've ripped out an OS 91 FS, don't get me wrong, it have a nice sound- but nothing compares to a Continental or Lycoming when it comes to live..
How about a Soundunit..?
"..rudu-rudu-rudu.."

airsteve172

I'm of the same opinion as ALPHA-AIR. While some of us might fantasize that a glow engine in a model more accurately represents the real thing, I dare say that I've never heard a model sound anything like a real aircraft (with jets being just about the only exception).

Whatever imagined "realism" a glow engine affords, is quickly defeated by the oily mess, the vibration, the temperamental performance and a sound that's even less pleasant than a chain saw and I can assure you that I've never mistaken the sound of a chain saw for the sound of an airplane.

I look at it this way, if I can convince myself that the 2 cycle single-piston screaming piece of aluminum on the front of the model sounds like an airplane, I can do it even more easily with an electric motor and not have to deal with the inherent problems of an engine. I also get the added benefit of not having to flip the prop or chew up the spinner with a starter, plus, I get the added realism of a model that's self-starting, just like the real thing!!!

Zor

ALPHA-AIR and airsteve172,

Explaining my outlook concerning the engine choice.

I have no negative feelings about using an electric motor on many models specially if they are not a scale of a full size airplane.

I like the sound of an engine on a scale model that approaches the realism of the full size.
That can be approached by using the "proper noise maker" (the engine and propeller chosen),

The propulsion noise comes from the prop as well as the exhaust. Someof the noise (sound) may also be contributed by component vibration such as the cowling.
The exhaust noise should be minimized using an appropriate muffler.
Then a two cycle sounding like a chain saw is out of the question.

A slightly over-powered four stroke with a larger prop (than used on a two stroke) turning throttled down to about 6,000 RPM or less may not sound like a Continental or Lycoming but gives some much more realistic sound than just the prop noise at higher RPM.

A low pass at reduced throttle can appear and sound pretty realistic.

Directing the exhaust under the model can leave very little oily substance under the model easily wiped away in two or three minutes. Of course it is advantageous to have a solid covering that a bit of pressure can be applied with the wiping paper or rag.

You guys had to refer to two cycle engines, high RPM, smaller props turning faster than necessary and you are of course entirely free to use those choices.

Everyone is correct to use their preferences.I am just explaining mine.
Enjoy,

Zor

hwheelman

This is an awesome site, just starting my build on my Cessna 182 and you guys are a wealth of info!!!!! Thanks and maybe I can share something one day!!!!

Zor

I am not a forum official to welcome you but I can say it is nice to read you here.

Zor

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I'm with hwheelman this thread is great. I have seen some great ideas here and will have to post a few of my own.

hwheelman

Thanks Zor

ryanbrown1

So a few weeks ago I bought a used Cessna 182 from the Perry GA swap meet. BTW, what a great time that was! I am 99% sure the plane is a Top Flite kit. The plane has no wing struts or evidence of ever having any. I have yet to find a photo of 182 without them. The fella I bought the plane from told me that he had bought the plane about 10 years prior and that it did not have wing struts then and that it flew fine.

Also the plane does not have flaps. I assume that flaps are an option on the kit.

So my questions are as follows:

1. Is there a way to determine what version of the kit I have?
2. How many versions have been made?
3. What are the differences in the versions?
4. Does the lack of wing struts compromise the integrity of the plane’s structure?
5. Is there a way to add the flaps option to the already built wing?
6. Is there a way to get a copy of the plans for this plane assuming that I can determine the version?

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

The first thing to check would be the wingspan and length of the fuselage to see if it matches the Top Flite Cessna. If it doesn't match then this is all academic because it's not the Top Flight bird. The wingspan should be 81" and the fuselage length should 64.5". If these match up then you can start looking at the rest of the plane. The TF Cessna 182 kit comes with a flap setup, and I don't know why somebody that is building this kit wouldn't put the flaps on it. But the insturctions included give both with and without flaps. It's up to the builder as to how they want to build it.

Yes, you can add flaps to the existing wing, but it's going to be a very big project that is going to require you stripping the cover off of the wing and then cutting and modifying it for flaps. Depending on your skill level this can range in complexity from "fairly easy" to "wow, that's a lot of work" all the way to "that's freaking impossible". Without knowing your skill level I can't tell you how difficult for you it's going to be.

I've looked through the manual and I can't find if the wing strut is functional or not. So I can't help you there. If you are interested you can download a copy of the manual here:http://manuals.hobbico.com/top/topa0300-manual-v1_3.pdf

You can order a set of plans for the TF 182 directly from Hobbico/Top Flite. But going off of what you gave us I would tend to think that you don't have a Top Flite plane. But like I said above, start by checking your dimensions and going from there.

Hope this helps

Ken