I'm gonna bring this thread back to life. I have had the plane once and had to sell it to fund another project. I'm looking for a nice little plan to keep with me at college when I stay for summer classes. I am looking at taking the dihedral out of the wing. The wing has the same wing ribs and tabs as the 40 sized Extra and I was looking at following the manual for the Extra when building the wing to take the dihedral out. I am a huge Cap fan but just can't get over that dihedral. Anyone taken any of the dihedral out? I'd be interested in hearing flight reports with those that have done something similar.

Hi, i got an email that this thread had a new post.
Im no kit expert, but i sure would not build the wing from plans for another plane.
It seems you would be asking for trouble.
RVman in this thread lowered the dihedral on his wing, If he dosnt post again you could
email him here on RCU and ask if he likes the flight performance it gave him.
I forget were i read it, but great planes's designer claims the dihedral was planned espesially for the cap 232 and should not be altered.
On the other hand less dihedral may be an advantage for inverted flight.
mine flies good inverted, with a little down elevator. which could be made better with radio mixing.
heres a pic of mine after 20 flights, im still adjusting the trims and balance in all additudes for precision flight.

Thanks for the reply. I wouldn't build it from the Extra plans. I would kust use the Extra dihedral gauge to get the dihedral that the Extra has and then use the Extra manual to reference when joining the wing panels. The wing parts are practically identical from my research. The only differences I have found between the two wings are: differences in dihedral, the Extra has the belly pan on the wing, and the ailerons on the Extra are slightly shorter.

sounds good.
keep in mind though on the building board the ribs on the cap are built a slight angle, so when the joiner is installed the ribs are all
plum, or straight up and down once the wings are joined.(to compensate for the dihedral)
you would have to change the angle of at least the first rib on each wing half at the wing root so they will mate correctly.
I would consider changing the angle on all the ribs there after to make the whole wing uniform.
if you have a percentage guage you could make a dihedral guage to simplifiy the process.
They sell these guages at any rc hobby shop.
Good luck! Scott

sorry i read your post again, you already know to change the rib angle

some how i got bumped from the thread glad to be back with you all hearing about the cap congrats as there are some sweet pics you have posted.....

Dihedral in this plane gives good slow speed support for nice landings as well as good support for tight curve maneuvers in flight, the worst scenario here could be that the plane would lost a significative altitude when turning, and landings could be turn on hot landings, so you have to be aware of it, maintain good altitude and air speed other wise you may total it because of the lack of the dihedral. If I would build it again I would focus more on weight savings that surely could improve the benefits of this plane. Mine does great knife edges, inverted flights and also does a lot of the Pattern maneuvers with ease, it is a great plane to build and to fly and better with a large prop so you can take advantage of the large tail surfaces.
Have fun with your building.

Hi alfred,
earlier in this thread there was talk about the fuel tank support being too low.
that is true as the centerline of the tank should be inline with the carb.
My o.s. was hard starting and would not idle. I raised the tank level to centerline of tank inline with carb, and
it worked fine.
Was this the case with your engine? does your engine have a pump?
I also had to do a little tuning because i used a pitts style muffler inplace of the stock muffler, first time with this engine.
It runs great now.

good deal

I am using a four stroke Saito 91 which draws fuel better than many 2 strokes, the position of the engine is a little different than the way stated in the manual, I had to use some washers to move the thrust but that's it. The tank rests on very thin foam attached to the tray. Any way while in the building process you should draw a line in the fuse horizontally with the carburetor then draw a line at the center of the tank, make a small hole in the fuse line to check if both lines are centered, ideally the center of the tank should be 1/4" inch below the center line of the carburetor.

So far to date every arf ive had, the compartment or support allowed the tank to be positioned level with the
engine.
With a 1/2 in of foam under the tank, it was still about a 1/2 in. too low.
I didnt realize it was that low until i had engine running issues.
Being this was my my first kit, i guess i just assumed the tank platform with a layer of foam would be correctly aligned
but it wasnt.
Other than that the instructions in this kit seems to be correct.
I also checked the instructions low and high rates with a throw meter and they are low 10-12% and high 16-18% which is dead on.
Any rate beyond what gp recomends would be strictly personal preference.

u can also install a vp 20 or 30 perry pump on the motor to knock out tank placement issues.....


http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...SEARCH=vp+pump

The pump would easily fix any issue regarding the placemednt of the fuel tank. About the throws, personally I added a bit more on ailerons but as you mentioned that is only a personal preference, I would fly it the first time with the recommended throws and see how it feels.

Hello everyone! This is my first post here

I have the Cap also. It is ready to covering.

I think that motor will be Os 46Ax with Pitts-style muffler.

Colourtheme is red and white. Registernumber is F-GRPA. Check the photo

I made some modifications to my Cap:

Pull-pull system to the rudder.
Two elevator servos
Two aileron servos

The construction is really original. The kit is the best than i have never built I like Great Planes kits

I really want to see how my cap flies...

Have fun with your Caps!

Nipatzu from Finland


Sorry about my bad English

looks like you are doing a class A job!
post some pics of your servo set up, id like to see your elevator placement.

Ok, i will take some pictures tomorrow.

Here are the pictures.

I have painted the cockpit area yesterday.

I bought the motor and other parts to my Cap few days ago. I think that i get my parts in next week.

looking good be sure to tie those clevis down well so that u do not have any loss of control issue....

I now that those nylon clevises can get loose, but they worked in my 1/6 scale Citabria very well.
I will check the clevises before the flights

i think what krayzc-RCU means is use a piece of fuel tube 3/16 long or so slipped over the clevis to insure it cant open.
dont just rely on the clevis alone. the clevis alone may hold, but this is cheap insurance.
these type of clevis are fine to use on the smaller planes. they will last many flights with very little wear.

nice job on the canopy tint,also good thinking painting the cockpit so the balsa color cant be seen.

your tank is going to be way too low! unless you are using a fuel pump. it should be center of tank inline with the carb level.
you can raise it with some foam layer. the foam will also help prevent the fuel from foaming from heavy vibration.

I understood wrong, sorry. I and my bad English...



I remember, that i have seen the fuel tube around the clevis.

Tank is too low...Ok. The motor cant´t get enough fuel? I raise the tank, when i remember with a peace of foam.

Thanks about the tips![sm=regular_smile.gif]



Thank about the canopy. I think, that it is good. (i am usually very bad builder[])

hey were all friends here,helping each other is what RCU is all about.[8D]

Id thought id mention the tank level, because i had to raise mine after the plane was covered,
which made made it a little harder to do.

I think your build looks great! your color scheme is going to look great with the tinted canopy!

Great work Nipatzu.
I used a hitec servo for my pull pull rudder system and works great this far, I also used two servos on ailerons and elevator system but my choice were hitec miniservos so I was able to save some weight. I am adding some pictures.

alfred, what brand of pull pull system did you use?

Your pull-pull is very nice and that servohorn is really cool![8D]

I put the elevator servos in the fuselage, because it looks better. Your system is really nice too.


What is your Caps weights??