Doesn't Anyone use Fabric Anymore!
#1
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From: Clear Lake,
MN
Hi there,
I'm working on the re-construction of a GP rapture 40, and I'm wondering what I all have to do to glass the fuse and fabric the wing and tail. Mainly, I want fabric so I can paint the plane and spray a dullcote over it. How much weight does fabric and/or glass really add to a plane.
thanx!
I'm working on the re-construction of a GP rapture 40, and I'm wondering what I all have to do to glass the fuse and fabric the wing and tail. Mainly, I want fabric so I can paint the plane and spray a dullcote over it. How much weight does fabric and/or glass really add to a plane.
thanx!
#2
It depends. How are you glassing the parts that will be glassed, and what finishing system will you be using. It adds more than Monokote or the other Iron-on films, but you get a better job. Check in the Vintage and Antique Forum under WACO YMF, and you will find lots of us using cloth and dope/paint.
Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1
Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1
#3

There are lots of threads on Sig Koverall, which is a really nice heat-shrinkable fabric. You need to prime with nitrate dope, or some use polycrylic. Then paint. I recently covered a couple of planes with silk and dope. I have a thread on my 4 Star and there are many other threads on it.
An easier alternative is Solartex, an excellent iron-on fabric that can be painted.
Jim
An easier alternative is Solartex, an excellent iron-on fabric that can be painted.
Jim
#4
100% Polyester, also known as 'Dacron' can also be used. It has a tight weave and is very light. You can find it in fabric shops since it's commonly used in sewing as the inside lining for dresses. Stick it down around the perimeter and shrink it with a hot iron. It can then be stuck down to the rest of the frame with nitrate dope.
As for the fiberglassing, if it's done correctly, I'm convinced that it can be very nearly as light as any iron on film.
As for the fiberglassing, if it's done correctly, I'm convinced that it can be very nearly as light as any iron on film.
#5
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Fiberglassing the Rapture will add a lot - Mainly due to the fact that there is so much open space. You'd have to sheet the entire fuse before you can glass it.
If painting a dull color is all you're interested in doing, just cover it with Ultracote and then paint it with flat paint
If painting a dull color is all you're interested in doing, just cover it with Ultracote and then paint it with flat paint
#6

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I use Worldtex from Horizon. I can't say enough about this stuff. No sags, wrinkles or bubbles and it stretches around curves like fabric because it is fabric. I also use Koverall adhered with nitrate dope and paint it with butyrate dope. That takes more prep time, however. You can see a Worldtex covered Sr. Falcon and Kaos, and a Koverall/dope Dirty Birdy in my gallery.
David
David
#7
You'd have to sheet the entire fuse before you can glass it.
#8
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From: Clear Lake,
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Cool, sounds like I probably wont glass the fuse after all. In another thread (How To: Rocked Out Rapture) I made up some sample pices and weighed each one. The results are pretty cool. I think the Fiberglass is best left to planes with "box" fuses like big sticks and any fully sheeted plane (ie warbirds). Thanks for the input
Chill.[8D]
Chill.[8D]
#9
I didn't realize the plane in question was an open frame. I defiinitely wouldn't even think about going through the trouble involved in fiberglassing it.
The iron on fabric coverings are very easy to use and work great. Worldtex, Colortex, etc. I don't think Colortex is available any more but it's exactly the same as Worldtex. It needs to be sealed to prevent stains and dirt from getting into the fabric. Clear paint or any type of butyrate dope is good.
The BUSA EAA bipe below is covered with iron on Colortex and painted with dope, brushed on.
The iron on fabric coverings are very easy to use and work great. Worldtex, Colortex, etc. I don't think Colortex is available any more but it's exactly the same as Worldtex. It needs to be sealed to prevent stains and dirt from getting into the fabric. Clear paint or any type of butyrate dope is good.
The BUSA EAA bipe below is covered with iron on Colortex and painted with dope, brushed on.
#10
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From: Chesterfield, MO
I just used Super Coverite that is iron on and pre-painted and it really turned out nice.You can also paint it if adding any additional colors.
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From: Richmond,
TX
If you use Koverall, why would you want to fiberglass it?
I would think a good Koverall job will result in a strong covering that looks great. No need to add extra weight when the original covering serves the intended purpose.
I would think a good Koverall job will result in a strong covering that looks great. No need to add extra weight when the original covering serves the intended purpose.
#14

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Lets say the Koveral is applied and shrunk what did you apply over to fill the weave multiple coats of clead Dope Nitrate or B.. The auutomotive paint I'm most familiar is Duponts' 'croma base' system, which is a lot like Urethane primer,which FILLS glass weave quick but how about Sigs Coveral. A lot of questions I know.
#15
I used Nitrate dope thinned 50/50 and applied 3 coats. One coat of automotive primer surfacer was applied and lightly sanded. The color coat was applied, followed by the clear coat. The entire plane was sanded (wet) with 1500 wet or dry, followed by a wet sanding with 2000 grit. Then The plane was compounded and waxed.
Bill, AMA 4720
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Bill, AMA 4720
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