EJWash1

My Feedback: (3)

"I believe that all participants in this hobby have their own outlook and it depends on the time and money they have for leisure and what gives them the most mental satisfaction. 

Nothing is accomplished by judging the outlook of anyone else type of activities. 

Enjoy your outlook and let others enjoy theirs."

u2builder

Today I got the fuselage mostly finished. I located the servos, and then did the rear turtle deck. I used 3/32 light grade balsa rather than the 1/16" that came with the kit. The reason was that it was basically just as light, plus it game me a little more ability to sand it without sanding through it. It came out very nice.

Next step was to build the cabane holders and line up the cabanes. I didn't want to put the rudder on so I just glued a stick to the rear of the fuselage that was vertical and centered.

I had purchased an incidence meter a while back and so I got to try it out, and set the cabanes for -1degree as per the plans, and glued the holders in. Then I tried out my new Christmas present HD soldering iron to solder wrapped joints. A good tool makes a huge difference and this task went well.

The last step was to sheath the front end using the supplied 3/32 balsa. I needed to wet it and it took a while to get it in place and fitted around the wires, but I managed to get it right the first time. On the Hog Bipe I just built I had to rip it off and start over, so it is always good to get it the first time.

I sanded the fuselage a bit and will put it aside until I finish the wings. I don't want to add the tailfeathers until I get the wings done as I am used to checking the tail against the wing, and this way I guess I can check all stab and lower wing at the same time.

I'll take a pic of the fuselage the next time I have the camera out. It looks pretty good to me.

u2builder

I started the bottom wing. What a nice wing kit. The notched leading and trailing edges make the assembly of a nice straight wing to pretty fast. It is one of the best wing kits I have ever encountered.

It is time to start thinking about the ailerons. I understand that some people have extended the ailerons. I haven't heard anything "bad" about doing this. My question is how many bays does it make sense to increase the ailerons. Most of my Bipes have pretty much full span ailerons on each wing. This includes my Goldberg Ultimate, my Sig Hog, and my Andrews Aeromaster. What do you folks think for the Bolt?

Zor

u2builder,

What do you folks think for the Bolt?

I think the ailerons should be left as per drawing using four ailerons. The reason is to keep some resemblace to the original full size Bolts. Beside this airplane is an aerobatic type and it has plenty of roll authority.

The sensitivity of aileron action is due to the fact that they are near the wing tips and have plenty of moment-arm. Do what you wish but since you asked you have my opinion explained with my reason.

A note here as a reminder (just trying to be helpful).
The low wing has a bit of dihedral which is set when joining the two lower wings together.
That is done after the top wing is installed and squared with the fuselage.
The top wing has no dihedral and the dihedral of the low wing is set by the length of the interstruts being installed under the top wing. I say "under" even though at that moment the model is upside down.

Make sure you read the instructions often and ahead of your work.

One thing I do understand is that you have not yet built the top wing; Then how could you have set the minus one (-1) for the top wing incidence. No doubt you realize how little difference in gluing the parts in the top wing can change that incidence. That is one spot where I ran into a problem and I was not the only one. Some other fellow also posted the same problem as I posted it.

The Bolt is a precision flying machine and has a fairly high wing loading. That means that its setup of incidence is important to its flying characteristics which you will want to enjoy.
Although I always bolt the feathers on my models (never glue them), that was one more reason to bolt instead of glue so that if needed or wanted for experimentation then I can shim the stabilizer either way.

Again I am not telling you what to do; only what I do (did) and the reason for it.

I think we are all awaiting pictures at your convenience.

Regards from Zor

dbacque

My Feedback: (3)

My Skybolt has all the aileron control it needs and I much prefer the scale look.

Dave

u2builder

Thanks for the input.

Regarding the wing incidence, I set it according to the instructions wherein the meter is placed across the two horizontal cabane ends that plug into the wing, and referenced to a level fuselage, and then gluing in the cabane support rails to maintain this minus one degree incidence.

raydar

I have a sig hog bipe, a kit built skybolt and a 1/4 scale pitts, I built the full length ailerons on my bolt and am happy with the way she flys with them, there is more control at low speed manoeuvres than the pitts which has a similar aileron set up to the skybolt and the skybolt does not roll as fast as you might think even with the extended ailerons and large throws. The only downside is that it does take away a bit of the scale look of the model and I can understand that this is important to a lot of builders.

I also believe that she will be a good flier with the two wing scale size ailerons.

Zor

Hello raydar,

I am referring only to the Skybolt.
I do not know if you have extended the ailerons to the full length of the trailing edges on both top and bottom wings..

Did you change the chord of fthe aileons ?

How much throw do you have setup ? (either in degrees of rotation or vertical linear dimension but if in this case the chord would be needed).

Thanks for any response.

Zor

raydar

Extended the top and bottom ailerons, Did not change the chord, have full throws with plenty expo.

U2builder thebolt with the full length ailerons rolls just like my hog bipe, not crazy speeds but nice and tight. Is it required , depends on what you want out of the model, for most likely not but im happy with it.

Please dont feel im trying to persuade anybody to do things my way, im only answering the question asked.



Need to get the tail wheel sorted and fly for some final tuning and then fit the cowl, Will post some pictures of the cowl and 20cc petrol engine when done.

Zor

raydar,

A beautiful all white Skybolt with an accent line on the fuse side.

The ailerons are well visible.

Just gorgeous; Thanks for the picture and the reply.

Zor

u2builder

Here are some progress pictures. Edit. Well the pictures didn't come, I'll load them later. A few pictures of the fuselage, one with a partial built top wing mounted.

The others are of my built up ailerons. They were very simple to build. I think I laid awake longer thinking about them then actually building them. I decided to go with 20" ailerons, like my Sig Hog Bipe and like Raydar's beauty. I wanted to replace as much trailing edge with my light ailerons as reasonable, and I will call it "stand off scale" LOL. The remainer of the trailing edge will be done with the kit aileron stock, maybe with some lightening holes. The new built up ailerons are totally stiff and almost half the weight of the stock ones, saving about 3 oz total. I am quite pleased with how the came out.

Zor

u2builder,

Superb cratsmanship ___very nice work results.

Either you are a fast builder or you have lots of time in the shop.

When you fly this Skybolt you may not want to fly any other model ___ LOL

Zor

u2builder

Thanks. It is coming out very well. I haven't made too many mistakes, though I did screw up and mount the leading edges on the wings flush with the top of the ribs (definitely should have known better) so I had to do a lot of CA debonding to get the leading edge off. Do you guys know that acetone is a pretty good CA debonder.

I am a pretty fast builder and recently retired, so I have a fair amount of time in the shop. It is kind of cold though, and I am a fairly allegic to CA, and I need to keep the woodstove burning and have a meal ready for my working wife, so those limitations keep me from living in the basement. Which is a good thing. I still work one day a week, and that is tomorrow, which is a bummer.

I am sure I will enjoy the Bolt. Of course, I also expect to enjoy my Hog, which is in the background of one of the photos. I have built it with slightly oversized elevators and rudder and hooked a Saito 115 on the nose, so I expect it to be very capable. It weighs just under eight pounds. I also built a Great Planes Extra 300 60-90 size, a great deal at Tower at just over $100. So I have three planes to maiden, and a dozen and a half more that I need to fly once in a while. The problem with this obsessive building is getting to fly them all, which I try to do, but each year it gets harder and harder.

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

Raydar, what problems are you having with the tailwheel?

raydar

Used the stock tailwheel wire, it broke flush with the bottom of the rudder/fuse after the tenth flight.

Not going to say it was a text book landing as came in fast but smooth but the speed seemed to be to much for the tail wheel wire and it took it straight off! The landing was on frozen grass with a frozen hard ground underneath, I still feel though that the wire supplied was not a heavy enough gauge.

Have ordered a couple of different talwheel sets so will see what fits best when they arrive.

JoshuaDA10

My Feedback: (11)

Hey U2 don't feel bad about those leading edges I did the EXACT same thing!

u2builder

Hey Josh, makes me feel a little better. You know, I even remember glancing at it and thinking about what unusual way the leading edge was going to attach. I think the way the TE fitted flush, combined with not reading the directions, lulled me to make that mistake. When you are moving right along it is easy to get messed up like that. Measure twice cut once huh? Luckily I got the interplane holders on the wings on the proper sides. That's the kind of spaceshot thing I worry about messing up.

I triangulated the upper wing with respect to the tail last night and it was right on the money which actually surprised me.

Regarding tailwheels, I like the Sullivan tail wheel. It has a very tough main spring and is also spring attached to the rudder. I have more than a dozen in service and have never broken one and I often plop my planes in. They are also not too expensive. However, they are not very scale looking and raise the tail a bit.

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

I had the same problem. The wire was far too strong and tended to keep the tail airborne on rough ground. When it broke I finally came up with a solution. I posted it a while back, but here it is again.

The first pic is the original wire with my home grown tail ski. The second is the result of pulling off the rudder and removing the wire and replacing all the hinges with pin type, (the bottom being giant scale). The tailwheel is sprung in suspension and steering and that elegant design is a dream to work with.

u2builder

Yep, this looks like the Sullivan system. All the 3D profile guys use this system, and they are HARD on tailwheels!. As I mentioned, I have this on over a dozen planes and have never had a failure. And I use CA hinges on the rudder.

The main wire spring is very rugged. You can get this for light, medium, or up to 20 lb planes. I'd say go with the most heavy duty one if you have a heavy Bolt. You will never bend or distort the main spring, it is very good metal. And the spring attachement to the rudder removes most of the stress on the rudder.

raydar

Two tail wheels arrived today, I went with this one. Not sure if the plastic will be up to the job, should be able to test her tommorow.
Also had a idea a few weeks ago but the floats are just a bit to big, never mind.

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

Nice looking unit and appears a lot like what came with my Rare Bear. Unfortunately your steering will not be very accurate or reliable with that spring angle, (it will be worse with weight on or during deflection). You need to get them as horizontal as possible.

I did not like the angle on my setup, (the arms and springs also protruded outside the tailcone) and carved off the steering arms mounted to the tailwheel pivot and installed a separate arm rig above the spring. You can barely see the setup in the pic/ Yours looks like the arm can be taken off and moved to the same location a lot more easily.

JoshuaDA10

My Feedback: (11)

SHE IS SO CLOSE!!!!

I just wanted to drop a few pics in of my Skybolt as I round third on this project. Radio gear is in, throws set and she is pretty much balanced. I still need to clearcoat the cowl and pants (and I am a bit disappointed at the color match) but she is almost ready to maiden.

Josh

Jaybird

Wow! That's a wild paint job...I love it!

Good luck with the maiden. It's a sweet flying plane and a lot of fun.

We eagerly await your report.

Jaybird

raydar

Another cracking looking bolt. Remember the maiden report. I like the covering, will be a lot easier to see in the sky than mine on a cloudy day.

u2builder

Yes, very nice and very original. I really like to see that because I can't manage it myself. I like the orange and black. All my planes seem to wind up some combination of red, white, blue or yellow, I guess because I always have a partial rolls of these. I just ordered my covering supplies (not that I am ready for them) and sad to say I am planning a pretty much exactly copy of some one else's Skybolt scheme. Imitation is the best form of flattery, or something like that. Anyway, very nice. I might have copied yours if you had posted a day earlier. LOL.