Beechcraft Baron - control horn issue
#1
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From: Strongsville, OH
http://home.covad.net/~dmoro6/photog...3/IMG_0036.JPG
Horn too far away from gap -- will I have trouble with the linkage on this one? Need your suggestions.
Here's another one;
http://home.covad.net/~dmoro6/photog...3/IMG_0037.JPG
And another;
http://home.covad.net/~dmoro6/photog...3/IMG_0038.JPG
One more;
http://home.covad.net/~dmoro6/photog...3/IMG_0039.JPG
This is the other side of the wing using bolt through - of which method I don't wish to use.
Horn too far away from gap -- will I have trouble with the linkage on this one? Need your suggestions.
Here's another one;
http://home.covad.net/~dmoro6/photog...3/IMG_0037.JPG
And another;
http://home.covad.net/~dmoro6/photog...3/IMG_0038.JPG
One more;
http://home.covad.net/~dmoro6/photog...3/IMG_0039.JPG
This is the other side of the wing using bolt through - of which method I don't wish to use.
#2
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From: Mary Esther, Florida, FL
Crockett:
There are three ways to address this. First is the simplest. If it's not too far off, forget it.
Second is still simple. Sight down the hinge line, consider the control surface being at 0 degrees, look at the angle a line would make from the hinge line through the connector hole in the horn. If that line, for example, leans back at 80 degrees instead of the 90 you want, then set your servo arm at the same 80 degrees. If the servo arm and control horn are the same length this will bring the operating angles right in. Uneven lengths? It'll still be pretty close.
The "Right" way is to get control horns with a greater offset. But they cost more.
Unless it is a pattern ship, or you want the utmost accuracy, go with option one or two.
HTH.
Bill.
There are three ways to address this. First is the simplest. If it's not too far off, forget it.
Second is still simple. Sight down the hinge line, consider the control surface being at 0 degrees, look at the angle a line would make from the hinge line through the connector hole in the horn. If that line, for example, leans back at 80 degrees instead of the 90 you want, then set your servo arm at the same 80 degrees. If the servo arm and control horn are the same length this will bring the operating angles right in. Uneven lengths? It'll still be pretty close.
The "Right" way is to get control horns with a greater offset. But they cost more.
Unless it is a pattern ship, or you want the utmost accuracy, go with option one or two.
HTH.
Bill.
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From: Strongsville, OH
Thanks Bill!
The angle of the controls surface LE (underneath the control surface) back to the horn is 45 degrees because I used a 3/8 piece of balsa stock. This is not an aerobatic ship and doesn't need the procession throw (or differential throw) as one would expect, so I'm going to position the horn back somewhat and make some fine adjustments using the servo horn (moving it forward) as the control horn is moved aft. I think that should it.
The angle of the controls surface LE (underneath the control surface) back to the horn is 45 degrees because I used a 3/8 piece of balsa stock. This is not an aerobatic ship and doesn't need the procession throw (or differential throw) as one would expect, so I'm going to position the horn back somewhat and make some fine adjustments using the servo horn (moving it forward) as the control horn is moved aft. I think that should it.
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From: Mary Esther, Florida, FL
Crockett:
Your are more than welcome.
But - If the horn angle is to the rear, the servo arm angle should also be to the rear. Horn to the rear and servo arm to the front will just make it worse. A lot worse.
Bill.
Your are more than welcome.
But - If the horn angle is to the rear, the servo arm angle should also be to the rear. Horn to the rear and servo arm to the front will just make it worse. A lot worse.
Bill.
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From: MI
Why not modify the control horn to be the way you want it? Like, remove the offending portion, make a replacement, then CA or epoxy it on......Dave
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From: Strongsville, OH
Don,
Yes, I do think they have there value in the kit building process only because I can focus my efforts elsewhere on the project. I modify the hatches slightly by adding hard maple in place of the blocks cutout of the ply for the servo hold-downs. Also, I use small piece of backing plate where the 8 - 2-sets of screws hold down the hatch. This just gives the screw more stock to hold down into. If they were any more, I would probably make my own hatches, but couldn't make as fancy of a hatch used here. Go for it!
Yes, I do think they have there value in the kit building process only because I can focus my efforts elsewhere on the project. I modify the hatches slightly by adding hard maple in place of the blocks cutout of the ply for the servo hold-downs. Also, I use small piece of backing plate where the 8 - 2-sets of screws hold down the hatch. This just gives the screw more stock to hold down into. If they were any more, I would probably make my own hatches, but couldn't make as fancy of a hatch used here. Go for it!



