Mike SVOR

My Feedback: (1)

And so it begins....

House of Balsa 43" wingspan .20 size P-51

Got the box delivered on monday 9-22-08. Started reading the 'instructions' the moment I opened the box.
Lucky for me, i've built planes in the past, so I can basically look at the plans and make it happen. But these instructions are seriously lacking in detail already.
I'm not stuck, but just writing down my thoughts on this kit.
I already have warped aileron wood, and HoB basically told me to go pound sand.
The instructions don't show or tell when to overlap wing sheeting or not and the plans don't clairify where to bring the sheeting to. But the pictures help.

I will attempt to install retracts in this kit.
It will be covered in chrome monocote.
it will be powered by a .40 OS fp 2 stroke possibly a 9x8 prop.
micro servos wherever possible
radio is futaba chp pcm/ppm
flapperons will be programmed using two wing servos


Well, don't know what else to say right now, so here goes....

bgfireman

My Feedback: (13)

Good luck.
I started to get one of these and run it brushless. Guess I am glad I didn't get it.
Alan

blvdbuzzard

Mine flew at about the speed of light with a hot .25 in it. I would say a hot 25, 28 0r 32 would be better then the FP 40. An engine with bearings will last longer and have more power. I have (3) FP .35s. They are good sport engines but are not that good at hi power stuff. My K&B .28 out does the FP 35's I have and it is lighter. One of the newer 32 would make it scream.

Keep it light. Mine started out weighing a ton. Real heavy balsa. I replaced most of it with better lighter wood. If I was to do another one I too would put retracts in. I would also think about flaps too. With the micro servos you could add flaps without much weight gain.

TO save a little weight I made the tail out of 1/16th inch balsa with lightening holes and then sheeted it with 1/32 inch balsa cross grain. Stronger then stock and about half the weight. Think about cutting holes in the sides of the fuse to drop some weight.

If I remember right I went with 1/32 inch balsa vertical grain sheer webs.

Mine flew well until a servo went out and it did a perfect rolling death spiral.


Good luck and enjoy

Dru.

Mike SVOR

My Feedback: (1)

Thats exactly what the tower hobbies guy told me about this engine when I bought it.






Twenty years ago.


It's still running great.
And it has bearings. Don't know why they said it didn't.

Mike SVOR

My Feedback: (1)

I'm trying to keep it as light as possible, but the retracts and .40 are a must.
The flaps will be part of the ailerons. They're called flapperons. Channel 1 and 6 operate as ailerons then double as flaps when the futaba 7chp's channel 6 dial is turned.

Throttle servo will be micro servo and fuel tank will be on CG, receiver will be moved back along with rudder and elevator servo.

Thanks for the tips!
Mike

Silent J

My Feedback: (2)

Nice to see the build thread started. It definitely is a builders/carvers kit. I mounted a set of robart mechanical retracts in mine. Just created new 1/32 ply doublers, new mounting rails and kept the gear in the same spot. I fit about as large a tire as I could in the rib bay, as I'll be flying from a grass field. blvdbuzzard has a good point for reducing weight, but you may need the weight in the tail with that .40 in the nose. If you save the tail for last, you could balance the plane with fuse and wing with all the geat and see if the lighter tail is needed before spending the time on it. But definitely keep it light. Hope that bit of info can help. Keep up the good work.

Brian

Mike SVOR

My Feedback: (1)

thanks!

I would love to see some pics of how your gear is installed and in what location/angle you put them on.

AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken

My Feedback: (180)

I built one of these and put a Fox .19 in it. What a screamer! Then I put a OS 25 FSR. It was faster, but it flew better with the .19. If I had it to do over again, I'd side mount the engine.

Good luck on your build, it's a great flying airplane. Just don't cover it in chrome Monokote..... it's like camoflauge for the sky.

jrbmoto

This was a popular plane at our club field back in the early '90s. I built one for a friend but have never flown one persnally. I do remember a popular mod was to change the wing incidence a degree or two negative. The complaint was that it tended to climb too much at high speeds. Pilots claimed it flys much more like a pattern plane with this mod. Anyone out there tried this? Most used ball bearing .25s or .32s. but I think the FP .40 is also a good choice.

-Johnny-

ExperimentalAviator

My Feedback: (15)

Mike,

I think your engine choice is great! I built this kit back in the late 80's and stuffed a Super Tigre 45 ABC into the nose. I used four standard servos with the stock aileron push/pull tube setup. I did fully sheet the wing and fiber-glassed the center section.

The four bladed prop and spinner was for display only, and I removed the muffler for the pictures. I did install a semi-scale tailwheel that fully swiveled. It flew great and handled the extra weight with no problem.

I believe that your idea of using two aileron servos is great, but I doubt that you will need the flapperons.

Mike

Mike SVOR

My Feedback: (1)

Heres the latest:

Almost done with the right wing.
I used almost the full wing length for aileron.
If you notice the shear webs, Instead of putting them on the centers of the 1/4"x1/4" strips like the plans say, I enlarged them and put them on the back sides.
Its how I've always done my other planes and seems like a stronger alternative.
Went to the hobby store and bought new aileron wood along with 1/4" balsa stock to make the trailing edge.
Just have to sand the leading edge down, glue on the leading edge wood, then sculpt it.

Mike SVOR

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks for this great tip!
I do see how that would be a problem with the way the wing is angled per the plans.
wondering how I will change the wing incidence. Raise the trailing edge into the fuse or lower the leading edge.....
trailing edge is probably the way to go.
guess i'm gona have to get out the carving knife on this one. lol
I feel like I should be sitting in a rocking chair on my front porch witteling (sp) away on this thing.

It definetly is a more 'advanced' type of build for this kit. Wouldn't recommend it to novices.

Mike SVOR

My Feedback: (1)

And to think I briefly doubted my engine choice. A Super Tigre 45 must've been insanely fast.



I'm thinking that the flapperons will be mostly used to add needed drag to the plane to get it to slow down enough for landing.
I had a serious problem with my last BlueHawk bi-plane and O.S. 1.08 engine not wanting to slow down. I basically had to cut the engine off and glide it in for landing.

I'm hoping that I won't have to sheet the entire wing also. Hope it will be strong enough.

cosmo64

Mike, I currently fly a GP P-40 combat series aircraft-very similar to the size of your mustang. I have it powered with an OS 32S I am able to do passes at 125 MPH +. I would recomend this over the 40FP you plan to usemore power and the same weight. I would not recommend flaperons on this small of an aircraft, I tried them on mine and it got very twitchy compared to having them on larger models. Just my 2 cents

tmproff

My Feedback: (5)

Nice Dolphins

planebuilder66

My Feedback: (8)

Yeah my GF saw the picture of the dolphins and said if you use my collectables to hold parts down your peants are in a jar!, hope they're yours and not the wifes!If so, watch out.

CastorTroy2150

My Feedback: (10)

Subscribed, my HOB FW-190 is on its way. Cant wait to see the rest of the build. I assume that the condtruction will be similar to my FW, but we will see. I love building, for me the worst part is hinge cutting for me. I bought this kit with a piece the positions for cutting and different size cutters. Hope this works well on my next build.how are you coing to cut your hinges, you dont use a electric hinge cutter do you?

ExperimentalAviator

My Feedback: (15)

Yes, it was insanely fast! Those old round head Super Tigre engines where great engines back in the 80’s. You’ll probably get about the same power and speed out of the newer 40 size engine, and I’m sure that you will like it!

I don’t think you will need the flapperons to slow it down. My Mustang was heavy and it handled the weight very well. At that time I was flying off a paved runway and as I remember I could get the Mustang down and stopped in the first two hundred fifty feet of runway.

I only sheeted the whole wing for aesthetic reasons. Per the plans your wing should be just fine, but I would recommend a 3 inch wide strip of fiberglass cloth and epoxy down the middle after you join the wing panels. I don’t remember if that was in the plans or not.

Mike

planebuilder66

My Feedback: (8)

Any progress?

Mike SVOR

My Feedback: (1)

Yep, I ordered some robart landing gear and have started on the left wing.
Will have pics up tonight. But basically the same thing as the right wing.

Mike SVOR

My Feedback: (1)

LOL at the dolphin comments!!!


I was trying to upload some pics last night to my web server, but they couldn't fix the problem in time. I got one uploaded though.



I have been using Glad ClingWrap (clear stuff over the plans) to cover the plans while working over them. It works great and the wing doesn't even stick to it when glue drips on it.
I haven't assembled the front part of the right wing because I'm waiting to get my retracts in there and glued down. Need the working room.

I can't wait..... Retracts are gona be soo sweet. Even if I have to add micro servos to actuate the little wheel doors that cover the wheels, it's gona be sweet.

Mike SVOR

My Feedback: (1)

Well, it's gona have the two wing servos either way, so it's gona be an option to try. There are just soo many awesome tweeks you can do with my futaba 7 chp/pcm radio.
The kit comes with a strip of fiberglass that is about 1 inch wide. I'll gladly do a 3, 4, 5 inch wide section if you recommend it. I have the material already.

ExperimentalAviator

My Feedback: (15)

Measure the inside width of your fuselage and use a strip of fiberglass cloth that will stay inside that measurement.

Those retracts will really add to the looks!

Mike SVOR

My Feedback: (1)

Got my robart retracts delivered yesterday!
They're pretty sweet. Very little force needed to actuate them. Positive locks in both up and down leave very little play in the strut when locked. (very little).
I'm extremely happy with them and have brought one to work to play with for the day. lol

I should have held off on sheeting the top of the right wing till I get these robart units installed. I may end up cutting a section of the top right wing off to do the plywood glueing.

draftman1

what robart retracts did you get. I have a p-51 in a box waiting for assembly and that sounds enticing, putting the retracts in. what engine are you gona use also. I was thinking about a 25fx