Can Anybody tell me where I can find a good instruction vidio tape on how to apply coverite fabric?

It is so easy to put on , don' t need on e , instruction sheet says it all , If you use nitrate dope is easiest , 2 coats on edges of the airframe , sand lightly after . lay cloth on & dope edges to secure . now shrink it with heat iron or gun . Put on 2 coats of nitrate , & paint . leave it a few days before painting . Also can use 3 m contact cement to "stick it on" with / put 2 coats to the edges of airframe ,after dry time Iron on the coverite to frame .

Thrasher,

I'm going to assume a couple things ( let me know if either is incorrect ). Am guessing that you don't have an instruction sheet with your material. Hurri is right, nothing is easier than using Coverite. You don't even need to use nitrate. Just iron it on using medium heat and final shrink with full temp on your iron. You'll notice immediately that Coverite sticks great and has monster shrinkage. Next to impossible to have a wrinkle that won't stretch out.Once shrunk, the surface ought to thump like e drum head.
Second assumption is that you are talking about SuperCoverite in white or antique white color. There was also SuperShrink Coverite. More on that later. Coverite ( the company) marketed a product called PermaGloss for a period of time. It was a prefinished product available in standard colors. The stuff was miserable. If that's what you have, then good luck using it.
A couple warnings about using Coverite: The fabric has a grain and it should applied with the grain running the length of your wing. Best way to handle this is to simply cut the wing panels down the longest dimension of the fabric. If you cut the panels with grain running from leading edge to trailing edge, you will have pronounced dips between the wing ribs. Next, If you are building a small ( .10 to .20 size ) model Coverite might be a little "much" for your structure. It has so much shrinking power that light models can be crushed by heavy use of the iron. If what you have is SuperShrink Coverite, you probubly ought to think about saving it for your .60 or larger models. Using Coverite will spoil you with it's ease of application!
A few words about finishing, Coverite is air-tight and requires no doping to fill it's pores. You simply wipe it down with thinner and begin shooting primer/surfacer. Be very careful about cutting into the surface when sanding. Probubly ought not use anything courser than 400, and when the fabric begins to show through the primer, stop sanding in that spot until the next coat of primer. If you do scuff the fabric, additional primer will be required to hide the mar.
Coverite is no longer available, and all us Coverite fans can only hope that someone will reintroduce it to the market. Enjoy , you will using the last of a great modeling product.

Super Coverite fabric is still available:

COVQ1000 1101 SUPER WHITE 38X45" $19.99
COVQ1025 1106 SUPER ANTIQUE 38X45" $15.99
COVQ1100 1251 SUPER WHITE 45"X15' $79.99
COVQ1125 1256 SUPER ANTIQUE 45"X15' $74.99

Pre-finished Coverite 21st Century fabric is also available in various colors.

See your favorite hobby retailer for details on ordering Coverite Products!

I think Hurri is confused with Sig Coverall, that needs to be doped down. Coverite is like monokote it allready has the glue on the back and it comes in colors.

I have coverite fabric on its way from tower hobbies, It is going on my PT-19 from House of Balsa, which has a 51" wing span. The plane should be 4 or 5 pounds when its done. I`m going to use cub yellow on the wings, tail and stab. then the fusalage will get light blue. Those are the colors on the plane shown on the kits box. I wasn`t aware that there would be instructions with the roll of fabric so when it gets here all should be well.
Thank you all for your help......... Thrasher

OK, you are getting the Coverite 21st Century Fabric. Pre-impregnated with adhesive, uses low temp iron for application. As stated above, just follow the instructions on the package. This stuff should stretch quite nicely, better than the films. I have some for my next project, and have heard good things about it. From other posts on RCUniverse, it is recommended that you hit the seams with a little extra heat so they don't peel up.

I wish Great Planes would clearly differentiate between the two VERY different products sold under the "Coverite" label,

Thrasher, what you bought is 21st Century Fabric made by the same company that makes Super Coverite. The very detailed and accurate information ddubya gave you above don't apply to 21st Century Fabric because it CANNOT withstand high temperatures and therefore won't shrink nearly as tight (nor stay wrinkle free) as Super Coverite.

If the package is unopened and you don't mind painting the plane (this IS the kit builder's forum, after all, right??), then I strongly urge you to return it and order a roll of COVQ1100 1251 SUPER WHITE 45"X15' This is the 15 foot roll. Tower has it reduced to $41,85 on their Daily sale page:http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LR0014&P=1

Trust me, having used both products extensively, I can say that Super Coverite beats the pants off 21st Century Fabric in terms of ease of application, shrinkage and durability.

If you insist on a PRE-PAINTED fabric, then I would recommend Solartex which is distributed by Balsa USA.

Thanks for the info LuvBipes, What faetures do you like about the solartex as compared to coverite?..

It's good to hear that Coverite is still available but I'm suffering sticker shock. Think the last I bought was around $30 for a 15' roll! Thanks Luvbipes for the "heads-up" on Tower's sale.
As an aside, some years ago I furnished information that was the basis for an article in RCM on covering large models with Coverite, then using MonoKote to finish in lieu of primer/paint. Worth consideration in those applications where MonoKote alone is a little thin and/or the builder wants to stripe an open bay structure. Biggest benefit is no paint odor during winter building. Granted, the technique is a little heavier than a well done paint job, but most large planes will handle the additional wing loading a barely notice the added ounces. Have used the same method with Koverall, works equally well. Just some info that some may find helpful.

SOLATEX Advantages - Shrinks drum tight, adds tremendous strength , is tolerant of a wide application temperature range, never wrinkles or sags in the sun.

SOLARTEX Disadvantages - needs a coat of clear in order to stay looking good long term.

21st Cent Fabric Advantages - doesn't require clear-coating

21st Cent Fabric Disadvantages - Suffers discoloring if recommended application temp is exceeded. Cannot be shrunk drum tight and, therefore, adds little strength to the underlying structure, sags in the sun.

To give you an idea of how good Solartex is; I have a 4 year old Four-Star 60 that serves both as a trainer when I instruct at the club and as my winter season "bush" plane for flying off snow on skis. The plane's covering is thus exposed to temps ranging from 95F to 20F and after all this time I've never had to reshrink the covering.

That sounds good LuvBipes, But I wonder if in shrinking it to drum tightness, Will it warp the wing?

Super coverite is the best!! Well worth the money. You can't wrinkle it!! It works best with high heat. It does not sag. It was taken off the market due to the chemical process making it producing too much waste. Glad to see it back. Coverite 21st Century Fabric is no comparison. It is way too heat sensitive and will pull away from corners if put on too hot. If you want colored fabric go with Balsa USA Solartex and give it a clear coat when you are done. This stuff is great to work with. Good luck