My first actuall scratch build(from rib assembly to completion) i've decided to go with the Extra 300S 60 series. There are a couple modifications I have decided to do which I seen on other build threads. The first mod I have done was extend the elevators by 1/2" and the rudder an 1" on the bottom up to 1/2" on the top. I have added some counterbalances but need some input on a few correct methods of some procedures of the build itself.

1. When gluing (CA thin I plan to use) do I tack everything down first then put drops into the connecting joints or add a drop to the butt ends of the pieces, then tack it all together with the t-pins? Right now I have the stab and elevators all cut to size and T-pinned in place on the plan to make sure all my joints fit properly and all cuts are correct.
2. I have noticed on the ribs of the wings there is a little piece near the trailing edge which doesn't seem to be a part of the wing itself. I see from other threads these ribs are sitting on this wood piece which seems to keep it aligned at the TE. I will post some pics later on tonight. Is this piece of wood just for spacing and is cut off later in the build or how does it fit in with the construciton of the wing? I'll try to explain this a little better. When looking at it from the side, about 3/4 of the way down from the LE(leading edge) there is a protrusion extending from a little cut box into the rib near the TE. It's this piece which is confusing me. Also, at the end of the rib it seems to extend into a point and is like a Z cut from the rib. Is this piece for the aeileron or is the cut a guide for a stringer?

Yes, put the wood together over the plans first, then add the thin CA. After the whole thing is together, say the fin or rudder, and you take it off the plans I like to add a small fillet of thick glue to most joints if the part is not going to be sheeted.

The tabs on the ribs are built in jigs that keep the ribs in their proper position when building. I think on that kit they're not used to build washout (on-purpose twist) into the wing, there's another jig for that later on in the build. The ones on the back are the ailerons.

I should be starting this kit in a month or so. I'm at the covering stage in building a Super Skybolt kit and as soon as that's done I'll start the Extra.

Here is my finished rudder, stab, fin, and elevators
Started the build on my wings, no mods here that I can think of may extend the ailerons once I get to that part of the build. Thinking I might just go to prefabed aileron pieces instead of making them like the kit informs.

Did the Wing sheeting and started my right wing today, hopefully I will get it done by end day.

Got to my objective today and put the wings together, now just gluing the dehithral brace to joint both wing halves
Tommorrow will start the remainder of the wing build, can't wait to get to the fuselage.

Thinking of building one of these aswell this winter, but i need a place to build! I have 3 of the .40 size ones and like them. I'd like to have an electric plane for a change, so i thought about putting a eflite 90 on the front of it.

Can someone tell me if this is out of hand or just on track.
I have used two med. bottles of CA glue (think there the 1/2 ounce ($12 ones) and one bottle of CA thin. I am having a hard time thinking that a build takes this much glue.
Am I using to much or is this about right? How much glue should I purchase to complete a build?? I also have some carpenter's wood glue and epoxy (30min) which I know i'll use on the landing gear and front box of the fuselage.

The engine I have in mind to put in my plane is the OS .91 Surpass, or maybe the Saito FA 100 AAC, which should I go with? I'm thinking the saito though I can get a good price on a OS FS .91 surpass for $250.00

Here's an update what I've got done so far. Put the DB together with epoxy good to go, got the pin anchoring bracket in and glued with epoxy, started the top sheeting - got the back part of the left wing sheeted then found out I am short a 3"x36" piece of 1/8" balsa DANG!! now I have to run to the hobby shop and pick a piece up to finish the right side of the sheeting, so I sheeted the leading edge portion epoxied the spar part and going to CA the ribs like I did the bottom side. Fitted my mid section sheeting to make sure everything works good, so far not to bad.
Most important part I believe is that the dihedral of the wing worked out though I have a small 1/16 almost to 1/8" gap on the bottom side of the wing in the center though everything is tightly joined when I put the dihedral braces in. So, I just made a sawdust+wood glue filler and filled the gap then sanded that smooth, that should do the trick for now. Last pic is my filler job

I built the .40 size kits, Used about half a bottle of MED CA and half a bottle of thin CA. 1/2 oz containers. I wouldnt think the .60 size would need that much more glue, but maybe it does. Used epoxy to glue the tail on and wing joining and engine box but that was about it.

On a 60 size Extra with a lot of sheeting and shear webs I would go through about a 2oz bottle of thin and not a lot of the med. I use thin the most. There isn't a big difference between the .91 OS and the 100 Saito so go with the deal, both good engines and choices.

The thin wicks into the wood so good ya don't need a heck of alot of it anyway to bond well. Just a dab will do ya.

What Aero said!! I have several different typs of tips for my thin CA bottle too plus a small bottle of acetone to soak the tips in when they get a clog in the end. The tips can get into some tight places. I also have several different typs of glues on my bench so I'm not just using CA. Good looking build you have going!!!

Ah yes I have forgotten about the tips. Well worth it to have a couple on hand. This is proveing to be a terrible winter for snowmobiling so far so it looks like I may have to pick up this kit and get to work to keep me busy.

Update: wing is complete now all sanded and ready to monokote. Instead of using balsafill I used a little epoxy glue instead to cover all the minor imperfections and it turned out great. Started on my fuselage - I reinforced the joints on formers 6 and 7 especially where they bend for a better hold and a stronger side.

Here's an update what I accomplished so far. Modified the fuselage to accommodate two servo's in the tail end to operate the elevators. Patched the cockpit so I can put my pilot in there. Finished the construction primarily now just some touch ups, minor dent repairs and a few more mods to hold the battery in place and receiver.
Still have the tail wheel assembly to put together and all the hardware marking and drilling. Using one long pushrod for the rudder operation, thus minimizing my weight. Might not be to much of a weight reduction but it should help.
Here are some pics of the project so far

I built, and still have, the GP .60 size extra. A fun build...

Great to see you took the plunge and built an airplane from a box of wood. I am one of the few at my field that fly nothing but kit airplanes. You will find people will be attracted to your plane because they have never seen anything like it. Quite a feeling of accomplishment when all is done and she takes to the sky for the first time.

You may want to upgrade your cowl to a fiberglass one from Stans Fibertech. I did and it was well worth it. A flying buddy of mine has the ABS one and it is cracking, as ABS does.

http://www.stansfibertech.com/

Another alternative is Fiberglass Specialties Inc. I have a cowl and wheel pants from them and they are good quality.

http://www.fiberglassspecialtiesinc.com

Here is mine, OS 1.20 Surpass III Powered.

SunDevilPilot

Nice build, nice job. Sun brought up a good point about the plastic parts. When I do use them I glass the inside with 1/2 oz glass and it helps a bunch. Most the time I order the cowls and pants from one of the glass shops that Sun mentioned, very nice stuff from both of them.

I finally got my engine. Picked up the FS 91S II - FI (fuel injection) model, needs a few items before I can get it running properly but tested and it at least starts then stalls out on me(never put my check valve on or my fuel filter so I guess that's a given that the engine won't run without the tank properly pressurized from the check valve.)
Here are some pics of my test buildup and my engine. Tomorrow will pickup the checkvalve and fuel filter so I can test this baby out. Nice engine, to bad they discontinued it and can't find much info on this engine online either. Did find the manual which is a bonus, glad I found that.
Sanding of plane is all complete, all sanded down to 2000grit wet/dry sandpaper (i used).


QUESTION REGARDING COVERING


Any tips I should know regarding multiple covering. Read that I should start at the trailing edge and work my way up to the leading edge, don't heat shrink until both sides are tacked and mainly done or warping may occur. ultracote over ultracote and monokote over ultracote, or ultracote over monokote???
What method would work the best?
LHS informed me I don't need any adhesive to apply any covering just heat gun and iron will do the job.
What would be the best to use, ultracote or monokote. The LHS has both makes of covering though being my first covering job I do not know what I should use or what will look better. Plan on doing a multiple color scheme with red white and blue.

What sort of flying can you do with this plane - is it 3D capable or more just a classial aerobatic type of flyer? I am tossing up between one of these (Kit of course) or something like an aeroworks yak. The later being the more expensive option haha!

What sort of flying can you do with this plane - is it 3D capable or more just a classial aerobatic type of flyer? I am tossing up between one of these (Kit of course) or something like an aeroworks yak. The yak being the more expensive option haha!

Your going to open a huge can of worms asking about the covering. I used to use Mono but some years ago they changed something so sometimes it goes on well and shrinks and sometimes it doesn't? I went over to the Ultra about 9 years ago and haven't looked back, really good stuff and looks great. Paint matching is sometimes hard to find but so far that has been the only draw back I have found. Mono has more color options and paint matches but if the stuff doesn't work who cares. My own planes only get the Ultracote covering. Dosen't sag or bubble out in the hot sun either. Trick!! I cover my planes in the main color first then set them out in the heat of the day then shrink them again, I may do this a couple of times, I call it curing. Then I put on all my trims. Fuel injected FS .91?? Cool, I have never gotten to fool with one of those, that looks like fun!!

You can do alot of different flying with this plane. 3d yes to a certain extend, does awesome knife edges, can hover though it is pretty hard and I am still trying to get the hang of the hovering aspect, does high alpha pretty good. IMAC pattern flying I find it is great.
Didn't get around to flying my last extra 300S, had it up six times, then had some sort of malfunction where I couldn't use my elevator or ailerons so I lost it hit pavement so only could salvage most of the electronics. Was running a carb'd fs91 in my last extra. I think I am going to get a bit more power out of this fuel injected engine then my last plane.

Here are a few pics of my plane covered so far. Haven't glued on the canopy yet though its coming along pretty good for my first build.
I'll be buying the fiberglass cowl instead of the plastic one which came with the kit, just wanted to get a feel of how it looked with the cowl on
pics seem to be a little big, one's on my profile (top view type)