First Time Builder
06-04-2003 | 03:01 PM
#26
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From: Mt. Morris, MI
Back to School?
Originally posted by Jim_McIntyre
Hi Minn,
If you could help us "third world country" type convert measurements like footpounds per fortnight to horsepower we wouldn't have to rely on such antiquainted methods as base 10 math.
...
Actually, we converted to metric while I was in public school and I'm "bi-lingual" in both systems (SI as well)...
There are roughly 2.2 litres in a gallon ... uh ... I'm not sure if that's a ripoff... sorry, US gallon.
Hi Minn,
If you could help us "third world country" type convert measurements like footpounds per fortnight to horsepower we wouldn't have to rely on such antiquainted methods as base 10 math.
...
Actually, we converted to metric while I was in public school and I'm "bi-lingual" in both systems (SI as well)...
There are roughly 2.2 litres in a gallon ... uh ... I'm not sure if that's a ripoff... sorry, US gallon.
Sorry, but here in the US of A there's 3.8 liters per gallon...
Hey! Maybe that explains the currency rate of exchange...
06-04-2003 | 03:22 PM
#27
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From: Mary Esther, Florida, FL
First Time Builder
SST and Jim McIntyre:
According to the built-in conversion utility in my trusty little HP 95LX there are 3.785 litres to one US gallon, and 4.546 litres per Imperial gallon.
I really think, Jim, you were thinking of mass units conversion, as one kilogram is 2.205 pounds.
Bill.
According to the built-in conversion utility in my trusty little HP 95LX there are 3.785 litres to one US gallon, and 4.546 litres per Imperial gallon.
I really think, Jim, you were thinking of mass units conversion, as one kilogram is 2.205 pounds.
Bill.
06-04-2003 | 04:50 PM
#28
First Time Builder
For a building board, I took 1/2 of a set of bi-fold doors. Using 1 door, I sprayed 3M spray-on adhesive on both the door and the good side of 2 ceiling tiles. I then positioned the ceiling tiles on the door and using a small saw trimmed to fit the exact door size. I then put a handle on the end and a hook on my wall. When using the board, I place it on my workbench. When not in use, I hang it on the wall. Works great.
06-04-2003 | 05:01 PM
#29
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From: Lancaster, PA
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Yeah, how about that metric system? Wasn't the whole world suppose to go to it back in the late 70's. Schools and the things they taught us. Atleast in America, we can go get a "yard" of beer and not a liter or meter or whatever. 
06-04-2003 | 05:43 PM
#31
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From: Mary Esther, Florida, FL
First Time Builder
Doug:
Ill ease your pain a little bit. I'll give you $15 for that metric depth mic, provided it has a 3 or 4 inch bridge. I don't need to go to the extent of having a 75mm or100mm base dimension.
Haw.
Seriously, if you want to hustle it, tell me the brand. I assume it's a standard style with the replaceable probes for changing the measured range.
Bill.
Ill ease your pain a little bit. I'll give you $15 for that metric depth mic, provided it has a 3 or 4 inch bridge. I don't need to go to the extent of having a 75mm or100mm base dimension.
Haw.
Seriously, if you want to hustle it, tell me the brand. I assume it's a standard style with the replaceable probes for changing the measured range.
Bill.
06-04-2003 | 05:45 PM
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From: Lavaca,
AR
First Time Builder
FatCat,
One bit of advice that I got that proved to be very good was to not put the top deck on until the very end. You will need to keep the bays open in order to finish the plane. Plus, it is very thin balsa and the chances of poking a whole in it while handling the plane are very likely. So leave it off as long as you can.
The 4*40 is a great plane and it was my first kit. And it flies very well. It was actually my first plane ever and I soloed in two days. That says a lot for the plane. Enjoy
One bit of advice that I got that proved to be very good was to not put the top deck on until the very end. You will need to keep the bays open in order to finish the plane. Plus, it is very thin balsa and the chances of poking a whole in it while handling the plane are very likely. So leave it off as long as you can.
The 4*40 is a great plane and it was my first kit. And it flies very well. It was actually my first plane ever and I soloed in two days. That says a lot for the plane. Enjoy
06-05-2003 | 05:21 PM
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From: Claremont,
ON, CANADA
First Time Builder
Originally posted by runover1
Atleast in America, we can go get a "yard" of beer and not a liter or meter or whatever.
Atleast in America, we can go get a "yard" of beer and not a liter or meter or whatever.
06-05-2003 | 06:08 PM
#35
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From: Mary Esther, Florida, FL
First Time Builder
SST:
Tubular Micrometer Company (TuMiCo) had a good product, not Starrett, but still good.
What's your price? Don't need it, I already have two good depth mikes, but for a good price I'll still take it from you.
Thanks.
Bill.
Tubular Micrometer Company (TuMiCo) had a good product, not Starrett, but still good.
What's your price? Don't need it, I already have two good depth mikes, but for a good price I'll still take it from you.
Thanks.
Bill.
06-05-2003 | 06:26 PM
#36
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From: Mt. Morris, MI
First Time Builder
Bill,
As a Journeyman Toolmaker, let me tell you that I've never been all that impressed with $terrett, but we all have our own opinions. Since I work mostly with SAE sizes, or do the conversion to them, I use an old 0 - 9" Browne & Sharpe depth mike set. What the heck, If real accuracy is needed, there's gage pins, comparators and Jo blocks, eh? Anyway, the set is in real nice shape, and I'll take $20.00 Priority insured to you.
As a Journeyman Toolmaker, let me tell you that I've never been all that impressed with $terrett, but we all have our own opinions.
Since I work mostly with SAE sizes, or do the conversion to them, I use an old 0 - 9" Browne & Sharpe depth mike set. What the heck, If real accuracy is needed, there's gage pins, comparators and Jo blocks, eh? Anyway, the set is in real nice shape, and I'll take $20.00 Priority insured to you.
06-05-2003 | 06:58 PM
#37
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From: Mary Esther, Florida, FL
First Time Builder
SST:
$tarrett? That's a good one. My dial bore gauges are Starrett, I still have some Tumico and Central measuring tools, My good Machinist's square is Brown and Sharpe.
It would take a while to list all the brands.
My "Tenth" mikes are a set of Mitutoyo digitals, carbide faces, friction stops, so forth. 0-3" and way too expensive.
And they are all stored in a Kennedy lined machinist's tool box. Another item that's overpriced.
Anyway, your price is accepted. Check or PayPal?
Send me an Email, if you want PayPal that's all I'll need, if you want a check give me your address. In either case I'll tell you where to put the DMike. Excuse me, where to SEND the DMike.
Haw.
Bill.
$tarrett? That's a good one. My dial bore gauges are Starrett, I still have some Tumico and Central measuring tools, My good Machinist's square is Brown and Sharpe.
It would take a while to list all the brands.
My "Tenth" mikes are a set of Mitutoyo digitals, carbide faces, friction stops, so forth. 0-3" and way too expensive.
And they are all stored in a Kennedy lined machinist's tool box. Another item that's overpriced.
Anyway, your price is accepted. Check or PayPal?
Send me an Email, if you want PayPal that's all I'll need, if you want a check give me your address. In either case I'll tell you where to put the DMike. Excuse me, where to SEND the DMike.
Haw.
Bill.
06-05-2003 | 07:01 PM
#38
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From: Fairfax Station,
VA
First Time Builder
[QUOTE]Originally posted by deejay_rcpilot
[B]I just hate to damage plans at all - if they are folded unfold them and roll them the creases will fall apart after a while
then take them down to kinkos and have them copied about $3 per sheet
When you get plans copied at kinkos, are they copied exactly or does the kinkos coying process change the scale?
[B]I just hate to damage plans at all - if they are folded unfold them and roll them the creases will fall apart after a while
then take them down to kinkos and have them copied about $3 per sheet
When you get plans copied at kinkos, are they copied exactly or does the kinkos coying process change the scale?
06-05-2003 | 07:56 PM
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From: Phenix City,
AL
First Time Builder
When you get plans copied at kinkos, are they copied exactly or does the kinkos coying process change the scale?
Make sure to draw you a scale on the original set of plans before you make a copy of them and compare the scales of the copied plans to the originals to be sure.I copied a set just this week at kinko's that we had to adjust the percentage down to get them to come out right
Make sure to draw you a scale on the original set of plans before you make a copy of them and compare the scales of the copied plans to the originals to be sure.I copied a set just this week at kinko's that we had to adjust the percentage down to get them to come out right
06-05-2003 | 07:57 PM
#40
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From: Mt. Morris, MI
First Time Builder
[QUOTE]Originally posted by vkernus
[B]
Only if you want 'em to.
[B]
Originally posted by deejay_rcpilot
I just hate to damage plans at all - if they are folded unfold them and roll them the creases will fall apart after a while
then take them down to kinkos and have them copied about $3 per sheet
When you get plans copied at kinkos, are they copied exactly or does the kinkos coying process change the scale?
I just hate to damage plans at all - if they are folded unfold them and roll them the creases will fall apart after a while
then take them down to kinkos and have them copied about $3 per sheet
When you get plans copied at kinkos, are they copied exactly or does the kinkos coying process change the scale?
06-09-2003 | 12:37 PM
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From: Claremont,
ON, CANADA
First Time Builder
Be wary of the aspect ratio. Often you'll have to use a separate horizontal and verticle scaling to keep your plans accurate. The copy place I use requires and 8% horizontal increase to maintain aspect. Luckily they do... that's why I use them. 
